BearClaw Latches

copndoc · July 20, 2004, 08:23:38 PM

I'm in the process of installing a set of BearClaw latches in my '51 Willy's P/U doors. I will be keeping the stock outside handles for the original look and I was wondering if the latching mechanism can be installed in the body (rather than the door) and install the striker in the door. I have lots of accessible room behind the "B" pillar and it would be much easier to install a manual release (incase the battery dies) if the latch were installed in the body. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
copndoc

moparrodder · July 20, 2004, 10:07:17 PM

Quote from: "copndoc"I'm in the process of installing a set of BearClaw latches in my '51 Willy's P/U doors. I will be keeping the stock outside handles for the original look and I was wondering if the latching mechanism can be installed in the body (rather than the door) and install the striker in the door. I have lots of accessible room behind the "B" pillar and it would be much easier to install a manual release (incase the battery dies) if the latch were installed in the body. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
copndoc

copndoc, First of all welcome to the board! second . please take time to fill out your profile so we can learn a little more about you. Now on to your question.
Yes you can put the latches in the body and the nadar pin in the door, but, if you leave the stock door handles in the door , how do you plan to open the door if the latch is in the body and the handle is on the door unless you intend to have a remote opener and door poppers and have the handle just for looks. I have seen the latches in the A pillar and nadar pin in the door on suicide doors that work well with remote openers. If you put the latches in the door and use the handle for the opener you can still install a light cable through the door and A pillar to under the hood on the firewall for an emergency opening devise if your battery goes dead on you, and even install a remote hot and ground post that you can access with jumper cables. If ya have any more questions don't be afraid to ask as there are a host of rodders here with a lot of super info for you. Again welcome!! Bill

Pope Downunder · July 20, 2004, 11:06:23 PM

Quote from: "copndoc"I'm in the process of installing a set of BearClaw latches in my '51 Willy's P/U doors. I will be keeping the stock outside handles for the original look and I was wondering if the latching mechanism can be installed in the body (rather than the door) and install the striker in the door. I have lots of accessible room behind the "B" pillar and it would be much easier to install a manual release (incase the battery dies) if the latch were installed in the body. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
copndoc

Adding to Moparrodder's ideas; you could also hook-up the stock handles to a switch and use that to trigger the solenoids. You could use the lock cylinder barrel(s), to isolate and activate the power to the switches attached to the handles, so it opens and locks like a stocker. Alternatively you could use a hidden switch, or remote controlled switch.

The best way to do all this would be to use relays; that way you can run lighter switches and wiring in the doors and the heavier cables to the solenoids in the pillars, where there is less chance of damage and shorts.

copndoc · July 21, 2004, 06:47:30 AM

Bill, Good morning and thanks for your reply. As per your suggestion, I filled in the profile........guess I missed it when I registered.

The info you provided was very helpful. The outside handles will be left on for "looks only" and something to grab when swinging the door open. I was planning on using either solenoids or activators to open the latch mechanism if I installed it in the "B" pillar. I still trying to figure out how to activate the latch once I'm in the car. I guess a push button mounted on the dash or door is my best choice with a door popper to give the door its initial push.

I look forward to conversing with other rodders as well. I noticed from your profile that we both work the road.....sort of.......at least in different forms anyway

enjenjo · July 21, 2004, 09:46:37 AM

I like a mechanical handle on the inside, I don't like the idea of being trapped in the car. So on the chevy pickup I just did, with the latches mounted in the rear jamb of the door, I used Nissan pickup inside handles mounted in the seat base. It was easy to connect them to the bearclaws with a cable, and continue that cable through the floor of the cab, for an emergency outside release too.

Fat Cat · July 21, 2004, 09:48:54 AM

Quote from: "copndoc"I still trying to figure out how to activate the latch once I'm in the car. I guess a push button mounted on the dash or door is my best choice with a door popper to give the door its initial push.

You could use a cable to operate it. What ever you do you want the inside latches to be manually operated or at least have a manual backup. Recently I was working on a customer truck that had nothing but electric latchs and while wiring the gauges I shorted the wire for the doors and blew the fuse for the doors. When I moved it into another stall in the shop I was effectively locked in the truck. Lucky for me I was able to get someone on the outside to get me the tools i needed to get out. But if it had been an accident situation it might not have been that easy. ALWAYS leave yourself an easy out. It could save your life.

And welcome aboard.

WZ JUNK · July 21, 2004, 10:47:47 AM

I vote for a handle on the door no matter where the latch is. I worry about an emergency quick exit and someone in the car that does not know where the handle is. I have been told that you can use a flex cable and route it up overhed and then down through the hinge post and into the door to attach to a handle. I have not done this but I think that a good quality flex cable would work.

1FATGMC · July 21, 2004, 11:02:15 AM

Quote from: "Fat Cat"
Quote from: "copndoc"I still trying to figure out how to activate the latch once I'm in the car. I guess a push button mounted on the dash or door is my best choice with a door popper to give the door its initial push.

You could use a cable to operate it. What ever you do you want the inside latches to be manually operated or at least have a manual backup. Recently I was working on a customer truck that had nothing but electric latchs and while wiring the gauges I shorted the wire for the doors and blew the fuse for the doors. When I moved it into another stall in the shop I was effectively locked in the truck. Lucky for me I was able to get someone on the outside to get me the tools i needed to get out. But if it had been an accident situation it might not have been that easy. ALWAYS leave yourself an easy out. It could save your life.

And welcome aboard.

A friend of mine recently bought a '39 chevy where the doors were opened inside and out with a remote. His wife got in the car at home without the remote and couldn't get out. She sat in there for 4 hours until he got home. Not a good situation.

He now also has a way to open the door manually.

I'm with John that the way out should be obvious to a passenger. You get use to your car, but you might have someone in it for the first time and even if you tell them what to do in an emergency, they are going to look for a handle on the door.

c ya, Sum

copndoc · July 21, 2004, 03:44:49 PM

Guys (and gals too).....all those ideas are GREAT and some of them never occured to me..........live and learn from other rodders

Looking forward to sharing lots of ideas in the future

Thanks again everybody :!: :!:

Tom

Dave · July 21, 2004, 07:02:32 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"I like a mechanical handle on the inside, I don't like the idea of being trapped in the car. So on the chevy pickup I just did, with the latches mounted in the rear jamb of the door, I used Nissan pickup inside handles mounted in the seat base. It was easy to connect them to the bearclaws with a cable, and continue that cable through the floor of the cab, for an emergency outside release too.

I wouldnt want to be trapped inside sither. Specially with fat cat sittin next to me on a hot day...
Dave

SKR8PN · July 21, 2004, 08:27:39 PM

Welcome to the board,copndoc.........
Now I have a silly question about what you are wanting to do. If you put the LATCHES inside the B pillar, and the striker pin in the door,isn't there going to have to be one heck of a "notch" in the outside of the body,for the pin to pass thru?

?

copndoc · July 21, 2004, 09:49:50 PM

Ya know, I got to thinkin' about this just today.......and yup I guess there would be a right good size notch..........So, I guess I have to go with conventional thinking and building.

It was worth asking the question though..........got some really great replys and ideas.

Tom

WZ JUNK · July 21, 2004, 11:05:21 PM

Quote from: "copndoc"Ya know, I got to thinkin' about this just today.......and yup I guess there would be a right good size notch..........So, I guess I have to go with conventional thinking and building.

It was worth asking the question though..........got some really great replys and ideas.

Tom

My brother "MO JUNK" has his pin on the door of his 48 Chevy truck and it did not require a notch. I think it depends on the overlap of the door. His release for the door is a handle mounted to the floor or each side of the bench seat. He liked the latches in the cab for the ease of instalation.

enjenjo · July 22, 2004, 01:17:24 AM

Quote from: "SKR8PN"Welcome to the board,copndoc.........
Now I have a silly question about what you are wanting to do. If you put the LATCHES inside the B pillar, and the striker pin in the door,isn't there going to have to be one heck of a "notch" in the outside of the body,for the pin to pass thru??

There is a notch in the jamb on the one I did, about 1/2" wide, and 1 1/2" high, but the door covers it completely, and the door seal is outside the notch, so no leaks either. I can see in some cases there would be a problem with this.

I actually got the original Idea from Mo-Junk several years ago. this particular car has power windows too, with the switches for that in the console. So there is nothing on the door but the armrest.

I got a little trick with the wiring for the window, I hate the contacts most people are using, they make it terribly difficult to troubleshoot a problem. With the door open, it's disconnected, and with it closed, you can't access anything. In this case, the way the door moves away from the body precluded the use of a conduit, the door moves sideways too much in relation to the body So what I did, was mill a slot into the edge of the lower hinge just wide enough to fit two wires in. then I formed a thin aluminum cover over the wires, held in place by a couple small screws. When it's all painted body color, there is no clue that there are wires in the hinge.

river1 · July 22, 2004, 02:35:16 AM

Quote from: "1FATGMC"A friend of mine recently bought a '39 chevy where the doors were opened inside and out with a remote. His wife got in the car at home without the remote and couldn't get out. She sat in there for 4 hours until he got home. Not a good situation.

and here in theAZ heat it could be DEADLY

later jim