'nuther project in the shop

[kb426]

Don, I don't know if the newer trans is the same as the AOD, but the AOD plate worked on my t5/ 3550 5 speed set up. That plate should be common at the salvage yards if the new one isn't correct. This was for the 157 tooth flywheel. I've read somewhere about ps on these and 57 model cars. I can't remember the company at the moment. If I remember anytime soon, I'll add it to the thread.

[GPster]

Is it rear steer? That 348 guy did his Studebaker and somebody else here did a rear steer something with a Cavelier rear steer rack that has the rack joints coming from the center of the rack rather than the ends. I think you can either make new rack arms that go from the center of the rack to the steering arms on the spindles or the one job was done by welding a plate to the center link of the stock steering and bolting it through the joint holes in the center of the rack. With the steering box/pittman arm removed and the idler arm removed on the stock steering the rack is what supports the center link of the stock steering. The guy posted a picture and Frank said it would work. GPster

[enjenjo]

I ran into that problem with one I did a couple years ago. He wanted to run the stock  shifter, and the 605 conversion stuck up too far.  What I did was used a coupler, 1/2 splined, the other end 3/4" smooth.  I then recessed a bushing up into the column for support, and left the column stick down over the coupling right to the top of the box. This gave enough room for the shifter. I had to drill a hole in the column to access the set screw in the coupler.

You might look at lowering the box just a little to clear the control arm, and bending the pitman arm up a like amount.

I think the Flaming river version of a 605 box is a little shorter on the top too.

I found this too   http://www.ndgearheadscruiserproducts.com/id21.htm

[Carps]

Hey dude, you sure be werkin on some cool chit in that shop of yours, I'm thinkin the term for that Ford is 'Bytchin! with a capital B.

Have you considered a power R&P unit?

A bit more work than you planned but might be better option in terms of retaining god steering geometry.

[BFS57]

Hello;
Have you considered a look see at Classic Performance Products? I know they have oddles of "things" there to do PS in cars.

Bruce

[DRD57]

After a bunc of research and unsuccessfule trial fit of the ABS PS system, the owner decided that the best alternative would have been the Wurth-it R&P setup. However, the total cost to the owner (parts & labor) would have pushed the cost of PS to about $3k and he'd rather spend that money elsewhere so, we're putting the manual stuff back in.

I'm glad I didn't cut that steering shaft off the box.

[Carps]

So there's a new rule huh?

Measure twice, check three times, consult owner and let him sleep on it.

Then reconsider if it really needs to be cut anyhow?  

I'm trying to figure out how to install the elct piower steer unit from a Yaris into my FJ Holden, so there's no pump and all the PS bits are invisible.  Would be simple as, if I didn't wish to retain the column gear change.

[Carps]

When I've figure that out, I'm gunna learn to type.   :oops:

[rog]

So there's a new rule huh?

Measure twice, check three times, consult owner and let him sleep on it.

Then reconsider if it really needs to be cut anyhow?  

I'm trying to figure out how to install the elct piower steer unit from a Yaris into my FJ Holden, so there's no pump and all the PS bits are invisible.  Would be simple as, if I didn't wish to retain the column gear change.

would it work for other models Carps? i want power steer for my dodge, & will be going with a floor shift so column wont be a problem  

[jaybee]

That's purty neat, Carps.  I read a magazine test that just raved about the electric p/s in the new Mustang.  This electric steering has been under development for years but it sounds like they really got it right.

[Carps]

It's been in use for a few years now by many manufacturers, mainly in smaller cars where space is an issue and of course, the Hybrids all have it coz hydraulic just aint gunna work when the petrol engine is shut down.  

The Yaris system is compact and simple, fits in the column between steering wheel and firewall.  So adapting it to a non column shift car should be pretty easy.

In OEM situations EPS is tuned to deliver the required amount of assistance and steering feel for that vehicle or for various driving situations.

Larger vehicles like Hybrid Camry, have the EPS motor & components integrated into the steering rack, which I reckon is even better suited to hot rod applications.  The rack isn't much bigger than a regular hydraulically assisted unit (I'll post some pics when I get back to Oz.).

For example, in my IS F at low speeds the assist is high, at higher speeds it's almost non existant, so the drive gets the full feel of the road.  By switching drive modes, the level of assistance is sharpened for quicker response to steering-wheel inputs but with less assistance.  Adapting one of these 'multi-mode' systems to a hot rod application might be a little trickier, but not impossible.

EPS equipped vehicles are probably starting to arrive in your local wrecking yards, but I wouldn't be surprised if there's not something available in the US aftermarket already.  Might even pay to check someone like Flaming River or Borgenson to see what they have, now or in the pipeline.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

My Volkswagen Jetta  has electric PS.  Seems to work fine.

[DRD57]

Well, I got this one mostly done. Just a few minor adjustments to make. One that's not so minor is there's a big trans leak out the tailshaft.

My parts sources show the C4 and 4R70W use the same trans yoke with a 1.5" O.D. The splines line up fine but, the bushing and the seal in the tailshaft housing are about 1.625" I.D. That's about an eigth of an inch gap. What yoke fits this bushing/seal or what bushing seal fits this yoke?

The rest of the swap was a struggle. I already mentioned the steering issues. We ended up keeping the stock manual stuff. We couldn't get headers or any existing manifold to fit on the left side so, we cut up a new repop 289 K Mustang manifold and welded it back up closer to the block, we had to fab and alternator mount, which led to re-brnding the dipstick tube, the 3 groove lower pulley wouldn't fit so we cut it down to one groove in the lathe, the old air cleaner hit the distributor so, that was replaced with an offset center air cleaner. Had to fab linkage for the column shifter to the 4R70W, The extra heigth and width of the 351W got in the way of the stock throttle linkage so we had to switch to cable. We got lucky a couple of times. We didn't have to move the brake booster as we feared and the trans didn't require any floor modifications

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Don,

the 4r70 - 75w trans uses a larger seal and bushing.. there are no adapter type bushings for the earlier smaller diameter yoke.  You will see a W on the 4r70w tail housing.

I have never tried to install an earlier tail housing AOD size tail housing on to the 4r70  trans.  You need to be careful since the tail housing holds in the park pawl pin.

4r70  trans are real common in trucks and cars 1993 and newer.  I am not sure what yoke would use the same U-joint you have now or if the U-joint is the same or not.

I am not much help , sorry

[DRD57]

I figured it out. Thank God for Google.

I need a different yoke (Neapco PN N2-3-14061X). It has an O.D. of 1.597" . The bad news is, it uses a 3.625" wide U-joint instead of the 3.25" that I have.