Bad Ford resistor

[butch27]

I'm still having trouble starting . I have a '68 Ford 302" but running points and resistor . I have the "I" wire from the starter solenoid going to the resistor (mounted on coil) and then to the coil NEG and the other side of the resistor going to Ignition switch -(IGN). I can start the car and run for a minute then the resistor smokes and burns out and the engine dies. The timing is at 6 degrees before and the dwell at the points is 26. Great fire at the points too.  Help been through 3 resistors.

[wayne petty]

something is wrong...

which model ford do you have??/



the wiring is usually like this..

ignition switch...  conventional wire... to a section of resistor wire .. to the positive side of the coil    

spliced into the coil end  that wire is another wire that goes over to the I terminal on the starter relay...



how it should work...

when you turn the key to the run position .. the power goes through the resistor wire to the coil....  supplying it with about 10 volts... instead of full battery voltage...

when the key is turned to the crank position.. the connection in the ignition switch is usually broken... and because the starter relay has pulled it's contact disc upward across the 2 main contacts... there is a small contact inside that connects to the I terminal...   this bypass circuit sends full battery voltage down the bypass wire to bring the coil positive to full battery voltage...    letting the coil have more voltage so it outputs a higher voltage spark for starting...

there is never a resistor in the bypass circuit...

i have had the starter relays fail ...  fail that  the I terminal stays connected to the contact disc or to the starter side contact...  so the lowered voltage that is on the I circuit when the key is in the run position is pulled to ground through the starter motor wiring..

now that you are totally confused.. what model are you working on.. i will try to find a wiring diagram.. for it.. i have many years of them.. and there are more at autozone.com.. in their repair info...

[butch27]

Wayne: It is a '78 Ford from a Fairmont. I put it in a "T" and bought a new distributor for a 1968 Ford from Whitney. I have good points spark and coil spark. I have the wire from the "I" on the starter solenoid going to the neg side of coil and then to the resistor (Chrysler) the other side goes straight to the ignition switch-"IGN" . When it does star it sounds great but only runs for a minute and burns the resistor. I have NO Ford resistor wires in the system.

[38HAULR]

The only wire to the coil -ve should be the distributor wire. The "I" wire from the solenoid should go directly to coil +ve. terminal. The ballast resistor connects to the coil +ve also,the other end of the resistor goes to ign sw. Make sure this config is in order and then see how she runs.........Frank.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

ignition  switch  feed of 12 volts goes into the resister , then power feed through the resister  goes to the positive side of coil.

points wire from dizzy is hooked to the negative side of coil

[tomslik]

ignition  switch  feed of 12 volts goes into the resister , then power feed through the resister  goes to the positive side of coil.

points wire from dizzy is hooked to the negative side of coil

what cros said PLUS run a wire from the starter side of the starter solinoid to the + side of the coil.
it'll give it a full 12V when starting.

[butch27]

Tomsik: I have a wire from the ign. "I" on the solenoid to the coil. Not from the start side of the starter solenoid.??

[The Paisano]

If what you call a resister mounted on the coil looks loke a points condensor,its actually a radio choke.it supposed the take away ignition interferance noise for your radio.
The  'Pink' resister wire from you ignition side is probably gounded somewhere along the harness.tha's why its blowing out on you.This wireis not fused from the igntion swich.the 12 volt supply from the starter solenoid has fuse links on them which are molded into the wire.They can be replaced.Just make sure you use the same gauge fuse link as a replacement.
Paisano

[wayne petty]

i want to know something....   butch do you have an ohm meter or a test light???

when the starter solenoid is not powered... the I terminal should be isolated...  not connected to anything...


i have had many ford solenoids fail...   on just this circuit..  it will prevent the motor from running usually..

put in a new SW-3 starter solenoid..

[butch27]

Yes I have the meter. I'll try that tomorrow . Put a new condenser in today . I actually have fire out of the distributor to each wire --haven't checked the plug end  yet.  Whew!!!

[38HAULR]

The resistor mounted  on the coil or it,s bracketry will be around 1.5 Ohms. wire wound on a ceramic former.
The "I" wire from the solenoid going directly to the coil positive is correct.
This provides full battery volts during cranking by passing the ballast resistor that is connected to the coil positive via the dash ign switch..................Frank

[butch27]

About the only thing left is that "I" circuit on the solenoid. I'm checking today.

[butch27]

O.K. This is weird. I put on a new solenoid and it still wouldn't  start. Then I disconnected the "I" wire completely and the darn thing runs great. But I'm afraid I'll burn the points up??Ideas??

[Fat Cat]

Here is a diagram of how the circuits should be hooked up.

[Fat Cat]

Here is a better example. Both can be increased in size by clicking the image.