P&J brake & clutch pedals for Model A ???

[DRD57]

Have any of you used these?

I bought a set to use on the 29 coupe that I'm building for a customer and I can't see how they can possibly fit in a Model A with a SBC & 4 speed.

The brake pedal is so far to the right, that it will hit the bell housing when the pedal is pushed down. If I move it back far enough to prevent that, the pedals will be up against the seat.

What am I missing here?

[enjenjo]

I think I would take the clutch pedal, move that to the brake, and fabricate a new clutch pedal out of the brake pedal and some other steel, to move it all to the left.

[crdnblu]

Curious......Does the SBC have a considerable setback in the chassis?  Also (& not intended to offend), have you contacted Pete & Jakes for their suggestions/options?

[UGLY OLDS]

crdnblu  may have a point with the setback comment.....


#1 & 2 is a 4 speed in an A chassis with a "reversed" firewall..Note the pedal room ...

# 3 is the avail room in that are from the rear....( Remove the muffler diameter ...)

#4 is a TCI  unit installed in the chassis ...( Power brake but you get the idea ..)

Hope this helps ...I may have a couple of more photos in my files ... :?

Bob ........

[oiler]

I had to heat my brake and clutch pedal to get clearance
5 speed Tremec mated to a 401 nailhead in a A
My clutch pedal is now about 2 inches away from the kickpanel on the left
i didn't want to cut them so i just repositioned them
I can take pics if it'll help
Jeff

[DRD57]

The engine is as far forward as I can get it with a short water pump, no set back.

I haven't contacted P&J yet. I'll do that tomorrow. I thought I'd get a few more opinions on my options before calling them.

I can make these work with some heating, bending, cutting, welding, etc. But, if I wanted to do all that I would have made them from scratch in the first place. I bought this "kit" because it was supposed to "fit" a Model A.

I'm trying to figure out if I'm doing something wrong or if the product is poorly engineered.  

I appreciate all your feedback and suggestions.

[C9]

One comment about the interior kick panel interior.


I thought I was in Fat City with the 32 when I started driving it - sans upholstery.

Plenty of room to the left - an automatic, but the pedal was moved left a bit.
Both for bellhousing clearance with the 455 Buick and me being a left foot braker.*

When I got the car upholstered the kick panel's transverse space was lessened.

I didn't realize I'd been putting my left foot up against the inside of the cowl panel and the upholstery took away 2 1/2" - 3" of space.

Doesn't sound like much, but when the shoe no longer fits....



*Fwiw, the engine in the 32 sits 1" to the right.
Done for header clearance with the steering, but it wasn't really needed.
(Vega cross-steer, two universals etc.)

The 31 on 32 frame roadster has it's 455 Buick engine in the same place as the 32's longitudinally speaking, but it's placed on center.

Doesn't appear there will be a header conflict with the steering column even though it's the same angle as the 32, but is longer by perhaps 10"-12" longer on steering shaft and outer tube.

Dunno if these will help, looks like lots of clearance, but fairly close to the brake pedal.















I have over 1500 pics, but never quite the right one.


Here's a pic of the brake pedals adjustable stop.


Mounted to the Deuce Factory bracket by a couple of 1/4-20 stainless allens.

Note that some pics show the pedal bracket with the bolt-on right side piece and some do not.

[DRD57]

Here's the problem:

[enjenjo]

It certainly won't work the way it is. I can see a couple ways to modify it to make it work.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Bend the clutch opposite the brake, just clearing the frame, and move the pedal pad to the right side. bed the brake pedal as much as necessary to nest to the clutch and clear the bellhousing. It'll be tight. Use spoon pads to get as much clearance between the pedals as possible.

Charlie

[enjenjo]

Is the mark on the clutch pedal where the floor is?

[wayne petty]

crazy idea from wayne..

has anybody ever thought of using an chevy S10 pickup type of clutch master and going forward with it... with a push rod off the lower portion of the curved clutch pedal... so it has a downward angle.. but still be below the floorboards...




just a thought....

[C9]

Geez Don, that pedal setup as is looks more "universal" than anything I've seen to date.

I have the Deuce Factory clutch pedal and it's an easy fit, but a little tight for the feet when both pedals are installed.
As you can see in the pics above the brake pedal is almost all the way to the left.

I believe the DF pedals are 1/2" thick.
Fwiw, you can saw off the angled pad mounts and use 52 on up to 59 and maybe a couple years further brake pads.

They have a channel bracket on back and all that's required is to drill the 1/2" pedal stalk - accurately - for 5/16" if I remember right and use a bolt & locknut horizontally.

Use the small Ford brake pedal on both sides.
The clutch pedal is the same size, but welded onto the pedal stalk.

Dennis Carpenter makes a nice re-pro pedal pad.

I cut the brake pedal stalk on both the 32 and 31 a bit shorter after I determined how far off the floor the pedal was before it bottomed.
7/8" Mustang or Torino M/C fwiw - depends on which side you want the brake tubes to exit.

The one in the pics is Mustang.

Your pedal stalks look overly long to me so it may be a viable deal to cut them shorter.

Accurate drilling of the DF pedal stalks is needed cuz the pedal proper will tip down if you get it off from where it should be....

[C9]

A further thought.

Do you have room to slide both pedals to the left?

Possible you have a spacer bushing and it should be to the right of the pedal pivots instead of the left.?

[DRD57]

Is the mark on the clutch pedal where the floor is?

No, it's just a remnant of tape from shipping.

The car has a BiitchinProducts firewall and a flat steel floor with no toe boards. I'm going to have to make some changes there.