P&J brake & clutch pedals for Model A ???

[enjenjo]

Is the mark on the clutch pedal where the floor is?

No, it's just a remnant of tape from shipping.

The car has a BiitchinProducts firewall and a flat steel floor with no toe boards. I'm going to have to make some changes there.

I was thinking along the same lines as Jay, that you might be able to raise the pedal arm up enough to get some clearance for pedal travel.

[C9]

How much do you have to move the pedal over to clear the bellhousing?


Looks like you're dealing with a hydraulic clutch.

A couple things that may work:

Do move the pedals to the left on the shaft.
It looks possible and I realize the pedal pivot/bracket may be constructed in such a manner that you can't
Granted, you may have to cut the bent tubular piece so it's bit farther back.

Some more room could be gained by sectioning the pedal bracket so as to cock the pedals a little to the left and not quite in parallel with the longitudinal line of the frame.
Said line going straight down the middle.
I don't believe having the pedals cocked 5* or so would be noticeable.

Cocked steering columns are common, done by factories as well.
Take a look at a 50 or so Plymouth, they're really cocked.
My stock 50 Plymouth coupe was and it wasn't noticeable when driving.


Move the engine to the right 1".
Again, commonly done in hot rods and by the factories.

I have the 32's Buick 455 engine moved to the right 1".
Doesn't create problems and that would gain you some room.

Done for header clearance that I didn't really need.

The 31 roadsters 455 Buick engine is on center and no brake pedal travel problems with it, but I have the brake pedal almost all the way to the left, just a thin 3/8" or so bushing there.


I realize you're building the car for another and time is an element.

Rather than move all the stuff, I'd be looking for another bracket setup that's more user friendly.

I wonder too if they sent you the wrong bracket/pedals and this is for a different car.
Surely they must have had more than a few "don't-fit" complaints by now.

I've never seen an aftermarket bracket that sets the pedal stalks so far over.


And . . . as others have noted, perhaps it's time to get out the blue flame bender.

I'd bend the clutch pedal as well.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My comment above on upholstery and inner cowl side foot clearance can be helped by making an inset upholstery panel.

Granted, that's up to the customer, but that's the plan for the 31.

[C9]

Couple more pics I dug out.

Shows brake pedal location a little better.

31


32




Disregard the shoe, it's too high up on the throttle pedal.
Was trying to show the ergonomic bit.

The trans tunnel is fairly large in the 32.
The 31's trans tunnel is somewhat smaller.
(I was going for lots of airflow around the trans.  We used to have a small factory stock company pickup - early S-10 I think - and the trans to tunnel sheet metal was real tight to the throttle pedal.  Summer or winter you'd have a hot foot after driving a while.)


Under the floor of the 32


The floor is fiberglass encapsulated birch veneer plywood.
Veneer chosed due to its lack of vois that common plywood has.
Not a whole lot of difference in price nowadays.

The floor was cut to allow for pedal clearance along the horizontal run of pedal stalk since the DF bracket sits up higher in this car.

I made a mistake by following the instructions exactly and should have tried it for fit prior to welding.
Regardless, it worked out ok.

Fwiw - that's the stoplight switch you see.
The 1/4-20 stainless allen goes into the brake pedal stalk which is tapped for the bolt.
An under the dash switch from a late 60's Chevy car if I remember right.
A fairly common one anyway.

Been through some fairly deep water in the roadster and that area doesn't get wet.

Take note of the zerk fitting.
I should have drilled and tapped the bushed pivot early on in construction, didn't and a 5-10 minute job turned out to take a couple hours....

[Welder Series]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tep63NduZW0

This is a youtube video I made of a semi-custom brake/clutch pedal bracket which will mount the clutch right beside the frame rail, if you want it that close.  Master cylinder/clutch cylinder mount remotely under the seat.

Can you trim the frame side of the bracket to bring it closer to the frame rail?  One thing I like about our bracket (if I may be so bold ) is the pedal mounts in double shear.  To take it off, with the body mounted, just unbolt it and drop it straight down.  It minimizes the size of the hole in the firewall.

I suppose another thing you could do is mount the pedals off the center section tube with some tabs, then use the bracket further back on the rail to mount the cylinders...