Ignition switch problems

Beck · August 12, 2008, 11:31:41 PM

I finally got far enough on my project to hook up the battery and start checking things out. When I turned the ignition key to the run position the motor started. I was happy at the time since I really expected a problem getting it running. After a minute or so I started thinking--That wasn't right--I didn't turn the key to the start postion. I didn't hear the starter running, but the motor is LOUD. I tried it a few times with the same result. I pulled the switch and checked it out. It seemed fine. I put it back in and did some testing with the starter wire off. It showed power for the starter wire in the run position. I took it out and really started playing. This was one of the generic China made switches. If the nut was tight on the starter post the switch was junk. If the nut was loose on that terminal it tested good.
I went up to the local part store and bought a Dorman switch of the same style. That one is junk too. The starter pole went hot at the right time but was almost on in the run position. After the start contact made it did not open again when the switch was returned to the run position. Starters don't last long like that.
Who makes a good switch like this? I plan to try NAPA tomorrow.
A buddy of mine messed up a Model A last year with the same problem. It was a fresh car, fully assembled except the interior and wiring. He was laying on the floor under the dash. He reached up to put the switch in the run position to test something under the dash. It started and it was in gear. The neurtal safety switch had not been adjusted yet. It drove into the wall of the shop before he could stop it. It wiped out a front fender.

wayne petty · August 13, 2008, 12:35:31 AM

here are a few options from napa.... the one with the plastic looped key is nice.. but not cheep...

there are several most on the pro catalog at napaonline.com

hope this helps....

there may be for the plug in switches ... prewired connectors available also...

wayne petty · August 13, 2008, 12:42:50 AM

and as i finished... i found this 7 terminal switch....

and one last switch for those of you who really need a lot of places to plug things into....

napa/Mileage Plus Electrical Part: MPE KS6146SB

and i have actually seen these installed in international scouts... and connector bodys are available.. they use the delco type of terminal with the tab on the back...

be sure when you are in napa... to look at a KS6500 it uses a gm type of sidebar tumbler lock that is pick resistant.. and it has the old chevy style of key surround to save the key from having to turn the cylinder...
it does not show the threaded nuts or list the size.. it is probably the best deal...

enjenjo · August 13, 2008, 01:04:46 AM

The only bramd I can depend on any more for switches is Cole Herse. Every one else is selling the same offshore junk.

C9 · August 13, 2008, 08:49:09 AM

Junkyard.

77-78 Ford pickup style ignition switch.
(This switch may go into the early 80's, not sure there.)

NAPA probably has a replacement tumbler if needed and they probably sell the switch as well.

Get the plug with it.
I'm pretty sure these switches will also take spade terminals if you want to do it that way.

You'll need a spacer if you're putting it into a thin dash oar.
1 5/8" x .120 wall tubing works good here.
Just cut it to the length needed.

Nice looking switch as you can see.
I have one in the 32 as well and no probs in 14 years.

enjenjo · August 13, 2008, 10:54:49 AM

Quote from: "C9"Junkyard.

77-78 Ford pickup style ignition switch.
(This switch may go into the early 80's, not sure there.)

NAPA probably has a replacement tumbler if needed and they probably sell the switch as well.

Get the plug with it.
I'm pretty sure these switches will also take spade terminals if you want to do it that way.

You'll need a spacer if you're putting it into a thin dash oar.
1 5/8" x .120 wall tubing works good here.
Just cut it to the length needed.

Nice looking switch as you can see.
I have one in the 32 as well and no probs in 14 years.

A local shop just went through 5 of them from NAPA trying to get a good one for a Ford truck, he finally found one in a junk yard with a key that solved the problem.

38HAULR · August 13, 2008, 06:00:18 PM

On these,I have now got into the habit of wiring the "Start" circuit to the starter solenoid via a relay. Mounting the relay to give the shortest possible path from live feed switching to the solenoid terminal. This is helpfull in situations where you are likely to encounter starter solenoid operation when hot. In most applications in a standard set up, the solenoid activation is a long run. Ign switch goes to trans safety switch through the loom ,then back to the solenoid with it,s inherrent voltage drop. Wiring via a relay,also reduces "stress" on the ign sw contacts. For those not fully electrical savvy. Simply disconnect the solenoid activate wire,connect to your relay coil,the other end of the coil to frame. Then connect one of the switched contacts of the relay to the solenoid ,and the other switched contact to live 12v .........Frank.

Fat Cat · August 13, 2008, 06:22:08 PM

Quote from: "Beck"It was a fresh car, fully assembled except the interior and wiring. He was laying on the floor under the dash. He reached up to put the switch in the run position to test something under the dash. It started and it was in gear. The neurtal safety switch had not been adjusted yet. It drove into the wall of the shop before he could stop it. It wiped out a front fender.

Been there done that still have the overhead door in the wall to show for it.