Creative thinking on a monday.. With pics...

[kb426]

Jay, when I bend 1/4" stuff, I bend it in a couple of places about 1/8 apart so it looks like a small radius bend. It's been so long ago that I don't remember if it took 2 or 3 bends to go 90 degrees.

[C9]

A little heat would help in the bending.

You can do that without a brake.
Just clamp the Lexan between a couple of straight boards and use a non-flame source of heat.

I'm guessing one of those not-very-expensive heat guns the R/C model airplane guys use to shrink Mono-Kote would do the trick.
About 300* F at the nozzle.

Even a regular hair dryer could do it . . . provided you could sneak your Sweetie's out of the house without getting caught.
And . . . if you have a hair dryer of your own . . . I don't wanna hear about it.


Anyhoo, little brother made a one-piece windshield for his drag racing Henry J and I believe he used the oven set at 200* F for a little bit.
Made the bend where the two flat panes windshield did the V bit - same style windshield as a Shoebox.

He'd been better off just using localized heat where the bend would be.
The first time around the flat panels developed a very mild bow.
Not so bad they couldn't be used.
1/8" Lexan on that one, I think the latest one is .187.

Anyway, I'm curious to hear how the 1/8" works out.

I like the adjustability of the original style clamps so you can swing the windwings in and out, but my 31 roadster project - that uses 32 windshield posts - isn't drilled and tapped for windwings.
The D&T bit would be easy, but figuring something else out is appealing.

Along those same lines if you don't have a flutter problem with the 1/8" that may be a better way to go.
Windwings get banged into now and then, especially by people who aren't used to the car.
The added flexibility of the 1/8" may be a help in that area....

[Dave]

Jay tell me what you got going with the wiper motor.. Pics too please..
Dave

[Brootal]

Great info, guys.

Of course, my first question was going to be... "Was it around in the 50s (bro)?

C9 answered that pretty much. Early 60s is OK with me.

[C9]

Jay tell me what you got going with the wiper motor.. Pics too please..
Dave

Made by Pacific Raingear.

Ask them for the passenger side model if you use it down low.
It'll be upside down then.
If they don't have any for the pass side, instructions are included so you can swap things around inside - has to do with the blade park position.

The wiper motor is installed in the drivers side windshield pull tab hole.
It's about 3/16" to start with and gets drilled out to 3/8" (check & make sure on the size, it's been a while).
The supplied aluminum bezel is cut to size for the windshield frame thickness.  (The bezel is simply a spacer to get the blade arm out front a bit.)

I drilled my frame after the windshield glass was in.

A little spooky since the glass gets a notch cut in it by the drill.

Lay the frame on a piece of plywood for support on the drill press and brace the outer end level.
Clamp things in place and using the original hole for a pilot drill the hole to 3/8".
Don't get carried away with pressure, go easy or you'll crack the glass.
Moderate pressure does it, you don't want the drill just rubbing or it'll go dull and not cut.
I used a new and sharp 5% Cobalt drill and it cut the glass nicely.

You have it made if the windshield glass is not in cuz your glass guy can cut a notch to match the larger hole.

Be aware that if your windshield leans back farther than mine the wiper motor will rub on the dash.

These pics should give you an idea of windshield leanback.






Drivers view..

Front view.


Bout the only pics I have of the windshield wiper motor, but as you can see it's not in the way of the drivers view.

The original style wiper motors like the ones Speedway - and everyone else - sell are very obtrusive and cut out a lot of the view for just about anyone regardless of their height....

[C9]

Jay tell me what you got going with the wiper motor.. Pics too please..
Dave

Made by Pacific Raingear.

Ask them for the passenger side model if you use it down low.
It'll be upside down then.
If they don't have any for the pass side, instructions are included so you can swap things around inside - has to do with the blade park position.

The wiper motor is installed in the drivers side windshield pull tab hole.
It's about 3/16" to start with and gets drilled out to 3/8" (check & make sure on the size, it's been a while).
The supplied aluminum bezel is cut to size for the windshield frame thickness.  (The bezel is simply a spacer to get the blade arm out front a bit.)

I drilled my frame after the windshield glass was in.

A little spooky since the glass gets a notch cut in it by the drill.

Lay the frame on a piece of plywood for support on the drill press and brace the outer end level.
Clamp things in place and using the original hole for a pilot drill the hole to 3/8".
Don't get carried away with pressure, go easy or you'll crack the glass.
Moderate pressure does it, you don't want the drill just rubbing or it'll go dull and not cut.
I used a new and sharp 5% Cobalt drill and it cut the glass nicely.

You have it made if the windshield glass is not in cuz your glass guy can cut a notch to match the larger hole.

Be aware that if your windshield leans back farther than mine the wiper motor will rub on the dash.

These pics should give you an idea of windshield leanback.






Drivers view..

Front view.


Bout the only pics I have of the windshield wiper motor, but as you can see it's not in the way of the drivers view.

The original style wiper motors like the ones Speedway - and everyone else - sell are very obtrusive and cut out a lot of the view for just about anyone regardless of their height....