Wiring a "running light" into the Fan circut ?

[wayne petty]

nope.  that was the replacment for it....the image below is what i needed to change...   there are used on fords of various ages... in two styles...

5/8 X 5/8 X 3/8 with the small fitting on the side

and

5/8 X 3/8 X 5/8  with the small fitting on one end..

and the black metal tee that was shown has a bleeder screw in it to let out all the air bubbles from the system...

[rooster]

You will need a minature socket available at most parts stores, set up for two wires, power and ground. You can tap off fan power at the fan for one side, and ground the other side. the light will come on when the fan is running, and won't draw enough power to cause problems.

You may, or may not find a place to install an aftermarket temp sender, you may have to tee one of the hoses to set it up. Don't be shocked at the temp it is running, most of them run over 200 degrees all the time.

I had a brain fart and thought that a 3/4" adopter that came with the gauge kit could be
brazed in the top of that 7/8" OD tee in the picture, then just attach the sending unit, from
then on, loosen the sending unit to bleed air if needed. The more I look at this, I think this
is the return line from the heater core, so this location would not be a good choice for
accurate readings.





Yesterday stuck the camera  down  low at the radiator and took a picture of the block
where the starter and oil filter is, I found a block coolant drain plug , would this be a place
to get a good reading of tempeture?

[tomslik]

ok, #1, the fan get's turned on by the 'puter.
     #2 the intake is probably leaking coolant anyway so when you do THAT,change the t stat AND the oil pump drive o-ring(it's way easier to get at then).
change the oil, too.
you'll get crap in the lifter valley (coolant,dirt, blood)

#3 drive the * thing 226 is NOT hot for a late model.


#4, i wonder how plugged up the radiator is?

[rooster]

ok, #1, the fan get's turned on by the 'puter.
     #2 the intake is probably leaking coolant anyway so when you do THAT,change the t stat AND the oil pump drive o-ring(it's way easier to get at then).
change the oil, too.
you'll get crap in the lifter valley (coolant,dirt, blood)

#3 drive the * thing 226 is NOT hot for a late model.


#4, i wonder how plugged up the radiator is?

Keep in mind that are car does not overheat (over fill coolant reserve reservoir) we only
see the red light on long hills in the summer ( a particular hill about 1 1/2 mile long),
sometime w/ac on, sometimes, w/it off. If the ac was on and we turned it off temp recede
quickly. I personally used this car every Saturday for 150 mile cookie route I do, and
never seen anything beyond normal temp on the gauge. Of course I dont go up that hill
either!
The fan is a single speed!
We own two 95 cutlass's the mechanical temp gauge w/fan running light is going into
wife's car first, then my sons cutlass, after we do some snooping around and check some
things , after that he can have it for his 49 Chevy.

#1.   I am in agreement with you totally . and by my understanding the ign and charging
and cooling somewhat or all supported on and foundation of electricity. The t-stat (2ed on
list) is mechanical .

#2.  Would probbely do the intake gaskets. Right now though the or no signs seen of
external leakage, we change the oil and filter 4 times a year regardless of mileage, all
cars, no coolant seen during those changes. No white smoke coming from exhaust.

 Oil pump o-rings , please tell me more about what's going on with them!

Reason I ask is we also own a 87 Buick Park Ave. 3.8 Eng. we had a oil pressure problem
with it , the pressure would go away and come back, its been parked sense, never did find
out what was causing it. 115K miles!

#3. Im not afraid of these temps , sons 95 3100 confirms what you guys are saying about
these temps. He says that its over 220 with his stock gauge normally! he has never had a
problem with red light coming on.

#4.  Its possible! seems to flow good. (History of the car) We bought the car over 3 years
ago, when we got it had just under 23K miles on it, it now has just over 52K on it, when
we got it did not have Dextracool sauce it ! I have sense we owned it, drained  the coolant
from the radiator only and replaced it. Kept the old stuff for backup it looked like new.
We have never had to add coolant because it was low yet, that I can remember.

Im looking for a GOOD place to hook up the sending unit for the temp gauge, I have
found where the drain plugs are for draining the coolant from the block, IM unsure of
accuracy at this location . (anyone)

Thanks for the input!

[tomslik]

ok, #1, the fan get's turned on by the 'puter.
     #2 the intake is probably leaking coolant anyway so when you do THAT,change the t stat AND the oil pump drive o-ring(it's way easier to get at then).
change the oil, too.
you'll get crap in the lifter valley (coolant,dirt, blood)

#3 drive the * thing 226 is NOT hot for a late model.


#4, i wonder how plugged up the radiator is?

Keep in mind that are car does not overheat (over fill coolant reserve reservoir) we only
see the red light on long hills in the summer ( a particular hill about 1 1/2 mile long),
sometime w/ac on, sometimes, w/it off. If the ac was on and we turned it off temp recede
quickly. I personally used this car every Saturday for 150 mile cookie route I do, and
never seen anything beyond normal temp on the gauge. Of course I dont go up that hill
either!
The fan is a single speed!
We own two 95 cutlass's the mechanical temp gauge w/fan running light is going into
wife's car first, then my sons cutlass, after we do some snooping around and check some
things , after that he can have it for his 49 Chevy.


does the fan ever come on?
like when you've got the hood up?
if so,at least the fan motor is good



#1.   I am in agreement with you totally . and by my understanding the ign and charging
and cooling somewhat or all supported on and foundation of electricity. The t-stat (2ed on
list) is mechanical .
yeah, but it's gonna burn ya to change it if the exhaust is hot.
you'll see why;)
anyway, i'd change it, even if the intake ISN'T leaking (rare occurance)
btw, they USUALLY leak externally at the heads.
the oil pump drive is under the throttle body and usually leaking oil, that's why i say change it, even if it isn't leaking IF you've got the intake off anyway
#2.  Would probbely do the intake gaskets. Right now though the or no signs seen of
external leakage, we change the oil and filter 4 times a year regardless of mileage, all
cars, no coolant seen during those changes. No white smoke coming from exhaust.

 Oil pump o-rings , please tell me more about what's going on with them!

Reason I ask is we also own a 87 Buick Park Ave. 3.8 Eng. we had a oil pressure problem
with it , the pressure would go away and come back, its been parked sense, never did find
out what was causing it. 115K miles!

#3. Im not afraid of these temps , sons 95 3100 confirms what you guys are saying about
these temps. He says that its over 220 with his stock gauge normally! he has never had a
problem with red light coming on.

i take it this one does NOT have a gauge?

#4.  Its possible! seems to flow good. (History of the car) We bought the car over 3 years
ago, when we got it had just under 23K miles on it, it now has just over 52K on it, when
we got it did not have Dextracool sauce it ! I have sense we owned it, drained  the coolant
from the radiator only and replaced it. Kept the old stuff for backup it looked like new.
We have never had to add coolant because it was low yet, that I can remember.

Im looking for a GOOD place to hook up the sending unit for the temp gauge, I have
found where the drain plugs are for draining the coolant from the block, IM unsure of
accuracy at this location . (anyone)

hey, got a buddy that can loan ya an infrared thermomiter?
just "shoot" the t-stat housing...

i can't think of a good place to stick the sensor for a guage on these engines...
and i do a LOT of intakes on 'em.
if this car is getting hot going down the hiway and not in town, think about replacing the radiator...Thanks for the input!

[rooster]

Tom:  Yes the fan does come on eventually and yes both cars have working gauges
(pictured above) The mechanical gauge is to get away from the dependence of the cars
electrical system ,and faster reaction time to the actual coolant temp.


hookup and gauge update:

I rigged up the tee as suggested by Enjenjo and Wayne , it was transplanted into the
existing heater hose by the t-stat, about 10 bucks for everything at Lowes. Brought the car
up to operating temp and checked for leaks, no leaks!  The new gauge is all ready to be
installed but haven't figured the bracket location yet , it might go in by the speaker grill
on drivers side.

New development:
While checking for the leaks the fan came on, the car was not up to operating temp yet,
maybe about 180 somewhere around there. I let the car idle in the driveway until the temp
stopped rising witch was at about the center of the gauge. The fan would stay on for 1
minute then pause 20 seconds then start again, needle on gauge never moved from its
"about center spot". The fan WAS working when it near the hot mark, and that only
happened on that hill we go up. I think its a electrical problem.

Something else came up in a different forum about using a CTS from a 3.4 eng , there
sensors provide info to the computer and the gauge (3 wires). Big question here is
compatibility.

[wayne petty]

please squeese the ... no not the charmin.. the upper hose while watching the overflow tank.. sometimes the little disc in the middle of the radiator cap is not tight agenst the sealing disc..    just sort of flopps there when dangled..

if you squeese the hose you should find pressure in the hose except when the motor is cold....


if the coolant flows in and out of the overflow bottle without restriction change the cap...  be sure the replacment cap has a tight agenst the rubber disc...  ( the disc is the size of a dime.. )..