battery clearance question

[kb426]

These 2 pics show the position of the battery relative to the muffler. There is an 1.5 " air gap between the closest' parts of the bracket and the muffler. Most of the battery is off set from the muffler. Does anyone have an input about heat issues that would warrant some kind of heat shield? I don't have any other place for the battery. This is the best location.

[enjenjo]

That looks like plenty of room to me. Shouldn't be a problem.

[donsrods]

If it makes you feel better, you might put some insulation around it, like Dynamat or similar.

Don

[Bruce Dorsi]

A sheet metal baffle with an air space on each side is a very effective radiant heat barrier.

This could be attached to the muffler, cross-member, or battery box mounting.

Seems like I heard something about "an ounce of prevention..."

[rumrumm]

Just to be on the safe side, I would build a shield for it. It probably won't bother anything while the car is moving, but if you get caught up in road construction or have to idle in place for very long, it might be an issue. Better safe than sorry. I cooked a battery that was mounted under my car (not for the same reason as yours) and it leaked battery acid all over the underside of the chassis and rear end--something I will have to fix this winter.

[1FATGMC]

A sheet metal baffle with an air space on each side is a very effective radiant heat barrier.

This could be attached to the muffler, cross-member, or battery box mounting.

Seems like I heard something about "an ounce of prevention..."

I agree completly.  Would take less than an hour to make and mount and then you could forget it.

I have one between my headers and starter and collector pipe and passenger side firewall.  These shield are very effective.  I even have one between my wood-burning stove in the house and a nearby wall.

I think they are easier to make and mount than insulation and just as effective if not more so.

c ya,

Sum

[Dave]

Yup count me in.. I like heat shields  especially near batteries and transmission coolers and exhaust.. Dont need the heat ..  You could mount a shield between the 2 cross members you have there and be good to go.. I like aluminum for heat shields but anything will do.. Thats just cause I got some from work..  Even that can be a problem if you get a bunch of heat cause you can heat soak it..  Aluminum when heat soaked can be tough to get cooled down not like plain steel or stainless..  But there is a reason that puter fans have heat sinks made of aluminum...
Dave

[kb426]

As soon as I find some 22 or 24 gauge metal, I'll make a heat shield. I looked in the pile and I don't have any thin stuff. I'm getting closer and getting anxious. Besides, it's getting colder outside and I want this done.  

[1FATGMC]

As soon as I find some 22 or 24 gauge metal, I'll make a heat shield. I looked in the pile and I don't have any thin stuff. I'm getting closer and getting anxious. Besides, it's getting colder outside and I want this done.  

I'd look for some 16, 18 or 20 gauge.  Those would have some stiffness to them.  22/24 is awful thin and flexible.  16 would just need to be bent and mounted with some bolts and wide washers.

Just my opinion,

Sum

[Bruce Dorsi]

As soon as I find some 22 or 24 gauge metal, I'll make a heat shield. I looked in the pile and I don't have any thin stuff. I'm getting closer and getting anxious. Besides, it's getting colder outside and I want this done.  

Too thin is not good, unless the baffle is well supported.

Thinner metals will have a greater tendency to resonate and put more stress on its bends and mounting tabs.

Depending on your final design and mounting, I agree with Sum, and would look for some 18ga.

[GPster]

For the baffle I'd wonder about stainless. 24 Ga. stainless would seem as sturdy as 20Ga. iron and it wouldn't need painted or be subject to rusting. Might also deal with battery acid spils better. Some strange thoughts on this suggestion. Used stainless bolts and washers. The hardware would still be able to rust and there is something about electrolitic action between dis-similar metals, but high school science was a long time ago. GPster

[48builder]

This brings up something I have been pondering. In order to run my battery cable(s) from the trunck, I can either go inside the frame rail near the exhaust, or go up over the frame to the outside, and then back up over the frame to the insed near the front. I would prefer to run inside the rail all the way, but I would have to go a coupl inches within the crossover pipe and the catalytic converter (if I decide to use one). I was thinking about build a shiled out of some conduit or pipe just for some insurance and run it inside the rail. I'll have another look once I get the body and engine back in the frame.

Walt