brake light switches

junkyardjeff · September 03, 2007, 11:26:50 PM

Even though I have disc brakes and a modern master cylinder on my 55 ford I am using the original style pressure stop light switch,it requires a lot of pressure for the stop lights to come on so I need to know if there is a switch that is a little more sensitive. Jeff

Crosley.In.AZ · September 04, 2007, 12:05:50 AM

I use mechanical brake light switches on the brake pedal, so I have no suggestions.

:T)

Leon · September 04, 2007, 02:26:03 AM

I have a "low pressure" switch on my 54 and it does take a little to light the lights and disengage the cruise control. I'm going to add a switch to the pedal to get rid of the problem, but since I already have the fluid switch, I'm going to wire the new one in parallel with the old one. It would act as a safety that way and I won't have to worry about making a mess taking the old one out.

wayne petty · September 04, 2007, 02:48:56 AM

here is a link to cole hersee. look for the switches link then the stoplamp switches and a bunch of links open.. there is a pull down box at the top to narrow the selection

click on the spects link to open each one... pressures are also listed

http://www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm

these area available at most truck lighting stores and probably through a cross reference through a normal autoparts store.

i hope this helps...

threefive · September 08, 2007, 11:50:07 AM

Quote from: "junkyardjeff"Even though I have disc brakes and a modern master cylinder on my 55 ford I am using the original style pressure stop light switch,it requires a lot of pressure for the stop lights to come on so I need to know if there is a switch that is a little more sensitive. Jeff

i have had good success using a vw pressure switch, seem to me they were 3-7 lbs.

Charlie Chops 1940 · September 08, 2007, 02:29:45 PM

Mechanical switches, whether the earlier lever type or the button style, available in normally on or normally off, depending on how you mount things, have worked so well for so long I can't imagine why a person would want to add another leak potential to the system anyway.

I fell for the supposed never fail pressure switch many years back but had nothing but the same actuation problems mentioned in this thread. I went back to mechanical switches ever since.

It's bad enough that the smoke leaks out of electrical switches without adding brake fluid leakage to the equation.

My humble .02 cents worth.

Charlie

phat rat · September 08, 2007, 03:15:02 PM

I'm with Crosley and Charlie. The button switches like GM has used for years rarely fail and they can be bought new or get them off a junker. I've probably got a dozen in stock that I've pulled off cars and trucks I scrapped

Crosley.In.AZ · September 08, 2007, 04:16:45 PM

as for mechanical switches there is the design with the arm on them.. I believe they were common on the 1950's Advanced Design trucks from GM

junkyardjeff · September 08, 2007, 05:00:39 PM

When I put on a brake booster this winter I will put a switch on the pedal. Jeff

wayne petty · September 09, 2007, 02:05:35 AM

by the way...

i found this on a google image search for brake light switches

http://sudco.com/brakepro.html\

and thread sizes and what kind of motorcycles they fit.

BMW   M10 x 1.00   M10 x 1.00
Cagiva   M10 x 1.00   M10 x 1.00
Ducati   M10 x 1.00   M10 x 1.00
Harley Davidson   3/8" x 24   3/8" x 24
Honda   M10 x 1.25   M10 x 1.25
Kawasaki   M10 x 1.25   M10 x 1.25
KTM   M10 x 1.25   M10 x 1.25
Piaggio   M10 x 1.00   M10 x 1.00
Suzuki   Depends On Model
Yamaha   M10 x 1.25   M10 x 1.25

i would think that these are much lower presure than automotive type switches. there was a spring pull type off a honda 50 with long leads also that might be easier to install.