Brake Booster Has Brake Fluid in it!

[BFS57]

Hello;
Today I decided to drive my Victoria to work to check the air Conditioning and make sure I fixed the leak I had. The air worked really fine!
As I was driving, I noticed that the break pedal was kind of low, barely had breaks when I got to work.
Limped it home and when I got it up enough to get under, I discovered that my break booster had break fluid in it. I pulled off one of the plugs on the booster (mine has a main input with two outlets that are pluged) and thats how I discovered this.
Now, I'm pretty sure the master cylinder is gone but does the booster have to be changed as well?
I also need to change my break pressure switch for the breaks while I'm doin this.
Any hints would be helpful

Bruce

[enjenjo]

You will more than likely have to replace the booster too. When this happens, it ruins the seal on the front of the booster that seals the master cylinder from vacuum.

[BFS57]

Hello Again;
Thanks, Enjenjo, It's 9:30 P.M., Got the darn thing out already!, Tight working quarters! My wife helped me find wrenches in my tool box, I would say 9/16 she would say 8/16!  Now, where do I find such a set up locally? The Master cylinder doesn't look like Chevy but it is a dual output 1" bore master. The Disc brakes come off the front (just like Chevy), the rear drum come off the other output into an adjustable por/valve. The system has much rust in it, I've taken brake parts off of way old cars that didn't have as much rust as this stuff!
I'm up for suggestions to make any improvements in this system. I bought the car pretty much built and running so I don't know what part the builder used. Probly some re-built master! Why Me?, Fix my air conditioning, my brakes go out!?
I placed the booster in a drip pan but I will replace it (I think it's a dual 7" booster) also got to replace the pressure switch to the tail lights. With this amount of crud I'm finding it's no wonder the switch went out. Planning on really bleeding all the crap out of the lines. Should I use standard dot 3 brake fluid or is there something much better?
These brakes never worked good since I bought the car. I really noticed it when I did the upgrade to a dual 8" booster/master combo on my 57 Chevy, which will stop on a dime and give you back some change!

Bruce

[enjenjo]

Look for a casting number on the master cylinder. Most parts stores can cross the casting number and bore to come up with the correct replacement.

If it's a street rod style booster, I have not had much luck with them. I also have had problems with water getting between the master cylinder and booster. My solution has been using a Felpro plastic chevy water neck gasket with an Oring built in, so far so good.

[BFS57]

Hello;
Update, couldn't find any replacements for these so I am going the 7" booster with the 1" master (dual) and will have to adapt everything to make it work. What a PIA! of course cars wouldn't be fun to work on unless they made you use your mind to figure stuff out!


Bruce

[BFS57]

Hello;
Got my parts ordered as it seemed that no local parts store here in Orlando had what I needed.
Now, I'm noticing how much rusty break fluid there is in my break lines. The car is only about 4 years old but I haven't seen crud like this on some old cars I have worked on!
When I get everything ready to bleed should I just bleed until the fluid runs clear! Will this take care of my crud in the break lines?
Planning on bench bleeding the master, and going from there. I know I'm going to have to make some mods someplace, just hope they are simple ones to do.

Bruce

[UGLY OLDS]

Bleed & flush the complete system all the way to the wheels & don't stop until you get clean fluid at every bleeder screw...Make sure you don't let the master run low during bleeding.....

[BFS57]

Hello;
I thought I would try to either rent or buy one of those brake bleeders that connect to the master and build pressure in the master so that I could bleed the fluid clear with out going to the master to re fill. I'm hoping that a local parts store has one I can "borrow" along with a couple large bottles of dot3 fluid. (paying for the fluid)
I also have to replace my pressure switch as it stoped working quite some time ago. I know NAPA has this and thats where I plan on buying it from as I don't want any cheapie switch to replace again. My thought is that the rusty fluid had something to do with this switches demise.

Bruce

[grazza]

Mate, if your brake fluid is as bad as you say then I think I would also be taking off the rear slave cylinders, along with the front calipers and checking/replacing.  All that crud in your system has got to be doing harm to the rubber components of the brakes.  Remember, you only get one chance to stop!!!!

[BFS57]

Hello Again;
Now, I'm getting all the parts ready and I notice I have to replace the hydraulic break switch. Mine had went out a while ago and I wanted to replace it while I'm doing this job but I am reading that these type switches aren't good as they tend to go out most often!
So I turn to you RRT experts to point me in the direction of a better alternative. What can I use to replace this style brake switch?

Bruce

[enjenjo]

I use mechanical switches.  the one from a 50 or so Chevy is easy to get, and very adaptable.

[BFS57]

Hello, Update!
Got the job done and was really happy how everything turned out! Got my booster and aluminum master from a company called Pirate Jack! Prices were really super! Both Booster and Master were from MBM Power Brake. (www.piratejack.net)
The new master was really nice! The old one was 9/16 and 1/2 outputs adapted to 3/8 lines. This new master was 3/8 so the brake lines screwed in directly eliminating the adapters!
I knew I wanted to improve from the old system so, I made it so that I could adjust the push rod to the booster by adding a heim joint which I got from Aircraft Sales, Inc. Here in Orlando. They are a very small but overly stocked aircraft salvage place. We found a piece that screwed directly on to the rod coming from the booster. (from a Cessna)
I had ordered a hydraulic break switch from Southern Rods but when it came, it was the wrong one! A call to them got the right one on it's way to me but it took too long so a trip to my local NAPA store did the trick! Now I have a spare!
Got it all in and plumed up. When my daughter (13 years old) started pumping the brakes I had a leakage problem from hell from the lines and the plugs too! (I hate dual ported master cylinders!) So, a little more time was spent aligning brake lines and tightening the snot out of them! Finally no leakages!
WE started the bleeding process. Man there was a ton of crud in the lines!
Oh, Before this time I discovered that my jack went bad, so I returned it to Cosco. Now, I needed a jack to get my car off the jack stands and lift up the rearend so I could get my fat * under the car! About this time, I saw a neighbor I knew worked on cars, and asked him if he had a jack I could borrow and he said yes. Walked down to his house and he lent me a jack, drug it back to my house and used it. Took it back and he said he had a couple other jacks and he would sell me that one so I figured that $10.00 was a great deal so I drug the thing back to my house!
Next day (oh, did I tell you all I'm on vacation) I drove the Vicky around the neighborhood at least 5 miles to see if I had brake drag. everything seemed fine so I guess the job is done except for some minor adjustments to the rod coming from the booster.
All in all the new brake system is much better!
Gotta go, time to go fishing!

Bruce

[38HAULR]

Just my 2 bob,s worth ,reading this thread , I would check the wheel cylinders,and calipers ,rebuild/replace as necessary ,good bet is that given the condition of the old fluid,and m/c has been replaced,a leaky rear wheel cyl would be a likely risk in the near future......Frank.

[Dave]

Couple things ive found and done on brake systems. although its frowned on i use  or have used teflon tape on the fittings. I use the 1/4 " wide stuff and stay 3 threads back from the end if you can.. Rebuilt calipers.. pull the * bleed screws put anti sieze on em then put em back in and slowly tighten m down.. the anti sieze will help em seat.. leaky caliper line at the banjo fitting? find a piece of aluminum (it wont mess up or crush the fitting) Place the aluminum on top of the banjo bolt and rap the sumbish wid a hammer.. id bet it stops leaking.. I hate brake systems simply because one or more fittings will prolly leak even if its not noticible for 3 days. Then the paint is mucked up   Ah geeze guess whats next on the roadster  :x
Dave

[BFS57]

Hello;
Yeah, I used teflon tape on a couple. I only had leakage problems at the new master cylinder. It is aluminum and I was hesitant to "crank" down on the lines and plugs supplied for that reason. The plugs had copper washers with them and when I really got down to it and tightened the daylights out of em, they stoped leaking! The lines, on the other hand were a little different. As the pervious master had adapters to adapt to 3/8, this new master was 3/8. One of the break lines was slightly bent and fluid was leaking out the back side of it. A little friendly persuasion and that stoped! next, like the side where the plugs went, I tightened the daylights and there was no leakage.
You can't see this set up but I can run my hand all around it under the car so that is what I have done so far to check and make sure I got it good and tight!
You should see the old fluid I got out! it is yucky! everything went smoothly while we were bleeding the system and everything came out clear and clean. A buddy of mine says he liked to change his fluid at least once a year! I guess I better get busy on my 57 next!

Bruce