pull the fenders? Mdl A PU

Started by chpd46, March 14, 2007, 02:30:32 PM

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chpd46

I am giving some thought to pulling the fenders and painting them soon. But knowing me it will be a year B4 I get them finished to my taste, I have everything here to make the truck legal drivable w/o them<Hl stands I made some time ago out of a A Hlt bar ,front fenders I made out a spare tire ring ,the tailights are integrated into  below the box area so that is not an issue,> but not lower or channel it ,so i can still drive it during the process. I am wondering how it will look-Dumb?

Dave

If your going to pull the splash aprons and all the brackets too it should look ok. Ive seen em done that way before. What are you gonna do for headlight mounts in the meantime? Your bar needs to be dropped too :wink:
Dave :arrow:

chpd46

Quote from: "jusjunk"If your going to pull the splash aprons and all the brackets too it should look ok. Ive seen em done that way before. What are you gonna do for headlight mounts in the meantime? Your bar needs to be dropped too :wink:
Dave :arrow:

I would pull all that stuff, it was done B4 as they are bolted on - stock supports were riveted, The aprons need replacing anyway as they are solid, but wrinkeled under some fairly deep bondo (the old GREEN sh_t), I made a pr of HL stands some time ago for another project car (26 cpe on A frame ) and never used them ,this would also give me time to send my stock bar out to be dropped by somebody  :roll:   :wink:  :D
all of this would make some planned updates easier as well. automatic ,coilover or stiffer shocks in place of mushy ones there now ,maybe air.

GPster

Just an opinion, but here goes. I always thought that un-fendered Model "A"s suffered from the lack of body height if they were left          un-fendered because the frame rails are only 4" high and so much hangs below the rails. The body heigth has the benefit of the heigth splash aprons to hide the transmission and closed drive shaft (or open) so that the car doesn't set up in the air like a 4X4. The un-fendered look of an "A" on duece rails has the benefit of more height to the rails and the fact that the rear of the frame is "Kicked up" so that the center of the rear axel  doesn't have to be below the bottom of the frame rail.  Now the suggestion. Remove the fenders and the splash aprons/running boards. The removal of the running board brackets from the frame should leave you with 6 holes in the frame rails on each side (you said the rivets were already gone,right?). Now make some kind of false (Falsies?) frame rails that can be bolted to the side of the "A" frame. If these went from tire-to-tire and extended down from the bottom of the body 6" or more you could give it a kind of "high boy" look. If you wanted to taper these "Falsies" to the front maybe you could make them long enough to fasten to the holes in the frame where the front fender mounts were. I made this suggestion to Lobeck for "Just a Hobby" at Columbus the last time the nationals were there. I guess I'm not the only one that has trouble getting him to pay attention. I've got no pictures or dimensions so I guess this will bomb out as a tech tip. You can do with it as you decide. GPster

chpd46

If I was going to leave it that way i would do just that thought about it myself once or twice , but the truck would get its fenders back in a few months (one cruise season here in MN. = 6 warm month's max) I figure I could get it fenderless and driving in a weekend + about the same back to fenders after paint (RED, same as its 60's color) they don't really need ANY work except the aprons replaced and some good sanding to clean the old primer up/off, maybe I'll just hit it hard and put it back together in a couple weeks. biggest problem is no decent garage to work in, just a small 15x35 dust collector, I can do all the prep + sanding work in there, but no painting.

UGLY OLDS

One of the best sources I've found for idea's is We-Bay..I constantly scan the Model A's for sale & have two files of photos I,ve collected to always refer to...The "Boy thats a neat idea file" :idea:  :idea:  :!:  :!:  :!:  And the WHOA..Why did they do that :?:  :?:  :?:  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  file...
All in all , a really neat place to find or "test" ideas.....
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

Dave

Quote from: "chpd46"If I was going to leave it that way i would do just that thought about it myself once or twice , but the truck would get its fenders back in a few months (one cruise season here in MN. = 6 warm month's max) I figure I could get it fenderless and driving in a weekend + about the same back to fenders after paint (RED, same as its 60's color) they don't really need ANY work except the aprons replaced and some good sanding to clean the old primer up/off, maybe I'll just hit it hard and put it back together in a couple weeks. biggest problem is no decent garage to work in, just a small 15x35 dust collector, I can do all the prep + sanding work in there, but no painting.

Dont feel bad my garage is only 20x24 and i have painted in it. It can be done.. As far as your light bar i have a jig and i can drop it for you..  If your interested pm me. Ill do it for ya for free as long as you get the shipping to and fro :wink:  I used to get 25.00 bucks a pop to do em to help offset the gas costs for the torches but then everyone as cheap as people can be started to not drop em or buy the 100.00 stainless ones.
At least they were 100.00 about 10 years ago when i last got one .. Prolly more now.. I actually enjoy doing em so now its more of a hobby then anything. I really need to buy some more bars. Ive only got 1 28-29 bar left.. I need to drop that one too
Dave

15 minutes or so later.. I just bid on some more stock bars on the bay.. If I win the auction then i can have a few already dropped in stock for exchange..