anybody up on halibrand quick change? have question

dragrcr50 · October 30, 2006, 10:24:07 PM

I just bought a chassis for my new project and it has a new halibrand quick change in it . The tubes are 3 inch steel with ford ends and look to be pressed in to the center section. I see two sets of holes in the housing and no holes in the tubing uner the holes. I think the tubes should be drilled and tapped and button heat bolts put in to help keep the tubes from turning in the housing. I dont have a book with it and havent used one before...

river1 · October 31, 2006, 12:04:40 AM

Quote from: "dragrcr50"I dont have a book with it and havent used one before...

try a library it has lots of books for you to use.

seriously, i can't help but this'll bump back to the top.

later jim

dragrcr50 · October 31, 2006, 12:08:04 AM

Quote from: "river1"
Quote from: "dragrcr50"I dont have a book with it and havent used one before...

try a library it has lots of books for you to use.

seriously, i can't help but this'll bump back to the top.

later jim

I somehow expected that from Sum hehe..........

enjenjo · October 31, 2006, 12:37:32 AM

Yes you can put bolts in the holes. Otiginally thre were rivets in most of them. Check the thickness of the tubes, some are too thin to hold threads. You can used Stover half nuts on the inside with thin tubes.

dragrcr50 · October 31, 2006, 12:45:49 AM

Quote from: "enjenjo"Yes you can put bolts in the holes. Otiginally thre were rivets in most of them. Check the thickness of the tubes, some are too thin to hold threads. You can used Stover half nuts on the inside with thin tubes.

I think the tubes are the same as a 9 inch ford which is very thick. it is fully assembled now and the holes are in the aluminum but not in the tubes. i will have to use a transfer punch and drill them out and tap, i really dont want to dis assemble the whle rear end if I dont need to but dont want the tubes to turn either, thankis for the reply . sam

Rex Schimmer · October 31, 2006, 01:18:56 AM

I worked on a IMSA GTU car in the early 80s and we had an aluminum center section 9 inch Ford housing that the axle housing were bolted to the center section. We, of course, welded the four bar mounts and the watt link mounts to the axle housings and then after a few races the bolts worked lose and the center section kind of had a mind of its own. We used a type of NAS bolt that is exactly on size for the diameter, I think 1/2 inch, and then we drilled the holes through the center section and housing .015 below a half inch and then reamed the holes exacty to the .500 dia. We then made a couple 3/8 inch think tubes that just slipped into the inside dia of the axle tube and we drilled and taped these for the bolts to thread into. Lot of work but the never came lose again. You could probably also do it with 1/2 inch shoulder bolts also and then the thread in the inter tube would only be a 3/8-16.

Thinking about a simpler approach you could also drill and tap the existing axle housing for what ever the bolt size is that fits and then use a socket drive flat head Allen screw. These are pretty strong, grade 8 I think, and if you use a good 82 degree counter sink they would also hold the housing and the end bells together tight.

It's only time and money!

Rex

Rex

dragrcr50 · November 01, 2006, 11:32:19 PM

Quote from: "Rex Schimmer"I worked on a IMSA GTU car in the early 80s and we had an aluminum center section 9 inch Ford housing that the axle housing were bolted to the center section. We, of course, welded the four bar mounts and the watt link mounts to the axle housings and then after a few races the bolts worked lose and the center section kind of had a mind of its own. We used a type of NAS bolt that is exactly on size for the diameter, I think 1/2 inch, and then we drilled the holes through the center section and housing .015 below a half inch and then reamed the holes exacty to the .500 dia. We then made a couple 3/8 inch think tubes that just slipped into the inside dia of the axle tube and we drilled and taped these for the bolts to thread into. Lot of work but the never came lose again. You could probably also do it with 1/2 inch shoulder bolts also and then the thread in the inter tube would only be a 3/8-16.

Thinking about a simpler approach you could also drill and tap the existing axle housing for what ever the bolt size is that fits and then use a socket drive flat head Allen screw. These are pretty strong, grade 8 I think, and if you use a good 82 degree counter sink they would also hold the housing and the end bells together tight.

It's only time and money!

Rex

Rex

DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT, THE BUILDER OF THE CHASSIS THAT DID THIS CAR SAID HE USES COLD FUSION TO MATE THE ALUM CENTER TO THE AXLE TUBES, FROZE ONE AND HEATED THE OTHER RED HOT AND PRESSED EM IN .......???WHAT DO YOU THINK??? I THINK WITH 6 HOLES ON EACH SIDE I COULD USE A TRANSFER PUNCH AND DRILL AND TAP WITH GREASE ON BIT AND USE A BUTTON HEAD IN ALL 6 HOLES ON EACH SIDE AND IT WOULD HOLD..

348tripower · November 02, 2006, 08:42:38 AM

Cold fusion would work. I can understand your concern about the axle tube moving but if that is the way it was put together you might just put in two bolts in each tube to ease your mind. I have repaired some plastic molds using the heat one and cool the other technology and I know it works.

Don

Rex Schimmer · November 03, 2006, 11:03:33 AM

When you are going to shrink fit the axle tubes to the alum. bells you need to make sure that the diameter difference between the alum. bell and the axle tube is at least .005 interference. At 100 degress, which a quick change will run at going down the road, you will lose about .002 in of "shrink" because the alum. bell expands more than the steel axle tube.

Yes I would certainly install some sort of screws and when you install them use lots of good loctitie, not only on the threads into the tube but around the screw where it goes through the alum. end bell as this will make the screw be a tight fit in the alum. Maybe just tap the bell and the tube and again lots of good loctite.

Rex