Need some brake help

Started by Turbo26T, October 04, 2006, 09:47:25 PM

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Turbo26T

October 04, 2006, 09:47:25 PM
Here's what we got:
'32 Ford hiboy roadster
'40 Ford drum brakes (Frt. & Rear)-new "stepped " w/cyls,shoes,springs,etc
'32 type frame
Aftermarket frame mounted pedal assembly- 5:1 ratio,pushrod travel approx 2 1/4(+/-)

What we need to know is:
What dual reservoir type ,manual M/cyl. do we need ? Bore size?
Stroke? ( obviously in the 2"range)
What original OEM application are we looking for? (Yr. & Make)
Any info appreciated Thanks Stan
__________________
Hotrodding is a chronic sickness,eased only by exposure to the smell of hot oil,burnt racegas,loud exhausts and followed by periods of rest on a creeper underneath  some form of engine powered vehicle.

Dave

#1
October 05, 2006, 06:57:00 PM
Quote from: "Turbo26T"Here's what we got:
'32 Ford hiboy roadster
'40 Ford drum brakes (Frt. & Rear)-new "stepped " w/cyls,shoes,springs,etc
'32 type frame
Aftermarket frame mounted pedal assembly- 5:1 ratio,pushrod travel approx 2 1/4(+/-)

What we need to know is:
What dual reservoir type ,manual M/cyl. do we need ? Bore size?
Stroke? ( obviously in the 2"range)
What original OEM application are we looking for? (Yr. & Make)
Any info appreciated Thanks Stan
__________________

Ive always used 2 different master cylinders and ive got the numbers but id have to look. If your in no big hurry ill look em up for you this weekend. But which side do you want the lines to come out of. ? Actually if i can find the info ill let you decide . The other option is the new style dual m/c that has the same size wells front or rear and dual line connections on either side. I got one of them from old dog street rods for a disk drum system and it worked well. Remember the drum brakes take less fluid than disks so a disk drum m/c will work just fine
Dave

phat rat

#2
October 05, 2006, 07:05:22 PM
Sorry Dave, but my experience with a disc/drum master for 4whl drum was not good. The front brakes came on too quick. The self adjusters for the rear wouldn't  work because the fronts came on so fast. At slow speeds such as in a parking lot it was easy to have the fronts lock up. I put just over 20,000 mi on the cpe with this set-up and was glad when I got rid of it.
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

Turbo26T

#3
October 05, 2006, 07:17:02 PM
N8dc  Thanks for the reply....Not in a big hurry , just have to keep the ball rollin'...Line routing side is variable at this point..It's a drum/drum setup  and we need the dual type for safety..part of our problem is the short pushrod travel (pedal setup is already installed and would require a "back -to -square one" rework to get more pushrod travel ).....BTW , I had also  heard somewhere else that a disc/drum cyl was too sensitive ...
             Thanx to all replies    Stan
Hotrodding is a chronic sickness,eased only by exposure to the smell of hot oil,burnt racegas,loud exhausts and followed by periods of rest on a creeper underneath  some form of engine powered vehicle.

Dave

#4
October 05, 2006, 08:29:48 PM
Quote from: "phat rat"Sorry Dave, but my experience with a disc/drum master for 4whl drum was not good. The front brakes came on too quick. The self adjusters for the rear wouldn't  work because the fronts came on so fast. At slow speeds such as in a parking lot it was easy to have the fronts lock up. I put just over 20,000 mi on the cpe with this set-up and was glad when I got rid of it.

Gee jack I did it on a t bucket with 8 inch rear and econoline front. Worked great. Id like more input here if it really doesnt work id like to know especially if i just got lucky.
Dave

phat rat

#5
October 05, 2006, 09:36:12 PM
Dave, I was using an 80's Cutlass master with complete74 Nova drum set-up. I don't know, maybe I was unlucky, but that was my experience.
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

donsrods

#6
October 06, 2006, 09:58:01 AM
There isn't a whole lot of magic involved in picking a master cylinder for a drum brake setup, over the years I have used various master cylinders, and they all worked well. My '27 has been running a '66 Chevy truck dual master cylinder (one side for the brakes, other side for the hydraulic clutch) for years.  The T I am building now is using a '68 Mustang non-powerbrake, drum brake all around master cylinder. That is how I asked for it at the auto parts store. We are using the same one on my kids '29.

Both of my rods run '40 front with Buick drums, and the '27 has a 9 inch Ford out of a '68 Mercury Montego, and the T has an S10 rear.  I will run this same master cylinder in my '39 Dodge truck that has '54 CHevy front brakes and an S 10 rear.  The secret is to pick a car that had drum brakes all the way around, like the Mustang I mentioned.

Here is a picture of the pedal assembly I built the other night for my T bucket project.

Good luck,

Don
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