Turn Signal Question ??

Started by 40, May 07, 2006, 12:52:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

40

I am still working the bugs out of the 36.Next problem on the list is the turn signals not cancelling.It is a new Ididit Column,the problem is when I make a normal 90 degree turn,I'm not turning the wheel enough to make the cam cancel the signal. If I turn just a bit farther than I need to,it works perfectly.The cam is centered correctly ......it requires the same "extra amount of turn" in each direction to cancel.I'm wondering if there are different cams for different turning ratios??I will check with Ididit on Monday......Just thought perhaps someone has a "back yard" solution?? Thanks!!
"The one who dies with the most friends wins"

enjenjo

Try a cam out of a Vette.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Dave

Quote from: "40"I am still working the bugs out of the 36.Next problem on the list is the turn signals not cancelling.It is a new Ididit Column,the problem is when I make a normal 90 degree turn,I'm not turning the wheel enough to make the cam cancel the signal. If I turn just a bit farther than I need to,it works perfectly.The cam is centered correctly ......it requires the same "extra amount of turn" in each direction to cancel.I'm wondering if there are different cams for different turning ratios??I will check with Ididit on Monday......Just thought perhaps someone has a "back yard" solution?? Thanks!!

interesting. I put an ididit in a car a year ago and it works fine. I assume by franks reply its got sumpin to do with the turning radius steering box combo.
Last i knew they used gm stuff just like everyone else does as far as turn signal switches etc. Got me thinking though.
Dave

enjenjo

QuoteI assume by franks reply its got sumpin to do with the turning radius steering box combo.

I'm guessing a Vette had a different cam because of the fast ratio steering
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

BFS57

Hello;
Got the same problem on my '32 Victoria. Except the turn signal lever decided to come loose on me the other day (you all will have a good laugh on this one) As I left the gas station, the lever for the turn signal came off (un screwed) and started shorting out the horn! It also transferred the electricity through to the aluminum steering wheel! Needless to say, My car was blowing the horn, I could hardly hold on to the steering wheel to drive the car! Good thing I live about a block or two away! I went home and "fixed that problem" but the turn signals have always clicked off easier on a left turn than a right turn which doesn't seem to shut off!
I didn't know 12 volts could feel like that! That shocked the crap out of me!
I'll Check the switch and see if a vette switch will fit! I know that there is a plate held in by a spring that has to come off first, you have to have a tool to depress the plate to remove the ring that holds it in place, then you have access to the turn signal switch.
I know my 57 Chevy has a really simple switch with cancelling pawls that are activated by a plate on the back side of the steering wheel!
Bruce

EMSjunkie

Quote from: "BFS57"It also transferred the electricity through to the aluminum steering wheel!  
I didn't know 12 volts could feel like that! That shocked the crap out of me!

Bruce


sorry Bruce, but that made me LMAO :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

I got a visual of you trying to drive home with a "hot" steering wheel. :shock:  :shock:

Thanks, I needed a laugh this morning.  :D


Vance
"I don\'t know what your problem is, but I bet its hard to pronounce"

1934 Ford 3 Window
Member, Rural Rodders
Member, National Sarcasm Society  "Like we need your support"
*****Co-Founder  Team Smart*****

enjenjo

you don't need to change the switch, they are the same. You need to change the cam, which is directly under the steering wheel lock plate, and is part of the horn contact plate. BSF57, sounds like your lock plate is out of time. It has a blind notch so it only goes on one way. The quick and dirty fix is to file off another tang so you can install it in the correct position.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

BFS57

Hello;
Yeah, I need to investigate what does what and make some "adjustments" to the plate or what ever looks "goosey"
Not to say that I really felt "goosey" driving the car home!
Bruce

Skip

Is it really "centered" or do you have it 180 degrees  "off".  i.e. centered on the opposite side?
Skip

Early Hemi SME
Hot Rod Wiring Consulting

Charlie Chops 1940

Quote from: "BFS57"Hello;
Got the same problem on my '32 Victoria. Except the turn signal lever decided to come loose on me the other day (you all will have a good laugh on this one) As I left the gas station, the lever for the turn signal came off (un screwed) and started shorting out the horn! It also transferred the electricity through to the aluminum steering wheel! Needless to say, My car was blowing the horn, I could hardly hold on to the steering wheel to drive the car! Good thing I live about a block or two away! I went home and "fixed that problem" but the turn signals have always clicked off easier on a left turn than a right turn which doesn't seem to shut off!
I didn't know 12 volts could feel like that! That shocked the crap out of me!
I'll Check the switch and see if a vette switch will fit! I know that there is a plate held in by a spring that has to come off first, you have to have a tool to depress the plate to remove the ring that holds it in place, then you have access to the turn signal switch.
I know my 57 Chevy has a really simple switch with cancelling pawls that are activated by a plate on the back side of the steering wheel!
Bruce


That's funny and not funny...a couple weeks ago I got my watch up against the hot lead on the back of the alternator and ground at the same time on the '40...while it was alternating quite fast. Kinda lent a new meaning to a "hot" watch. The ensuing nasty burn on my wrist isn't fully healed yet. The older I get the more I seem to be an accident looking for a place to happen.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

Dave

Quote from: "Skip"Is it really "centered" or do you have it 180 degrees  "off".  i.e. centered on the opposite side?

hummm skip ur still alive ? where u been dude
Dave

Skip

Been out straight.  9-1/2 hours a day at the shop then another 3 or 4 hours wirin' hot rods.

Don't get in 'til ten-ish every night.

It's rainin really hard so I'm catching up on paperwork for a change.
Skip

Early Hemi SME
Hot Rod Wiring Consulting

C9

Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940

That's funny and not funny...a couple weeks ago I got my watch up against the hot lead on the back of the alternator and ground at the same time on the '40...while it was alternating quite fast. Kinda lent a new meaning to a "hot" watch. The ensuing nasty burn on my wrist isn't fully healed yet. The older I get the more I seem to be an accident looking for a place to happen.

Charlie[/quote



Fwiw, I used to work for the power company and operating power for the station equipment, big circuit breakers etc. came from station batteries.
These ranged in voltage from 34 volts to 240 volts DC.
Voltage choice depending on station size.
Little stations = little batteries etc.
The 240 volt DC was only installed in one station due to it didn't live up to expectations and required specialty equipment in places other than the battery room so the company returned to the old standard 132 volt DC systems at larger stations.

Anyway, part of the training was safety methods etc. around the batteries.
Wedding rings and expandable wrist watch bands were discouraged.

With most of the battery banks in larger stations running at 132 volts the talk was you could lose a wrist if you shorted out the main leads or anywhere else near the 132 volt level.
(The 132 volt bank of batteries was composed of sixty individual wet cells running 2.1 - 2.2 volts each.

I asked one of the battery techs how much power a car battery could deliver if there was a good solid short.

The answer was, a fully charged six volt battery would deliver 6000 amps instantaneous current on a dead short.
(Six thousand is correct.)
The voltage curve went downhill like a rock tossed over a cliff, but there was a helluva flash at the start.

Sorta explains where all my pocket knives used to go to when I was a kid and would splice or add wires without disconnecting the battery.
Nothing quite like a collection of notched pocket knives....
C9

Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert.