Droppin a 51 Chevy

[blown240]

I got this from another forum.  Can anyone shed light as to what he is talking about?

The cheap way to lower the 49-54 chevys besides heating or cutting the springs is altering your control arms and or steering knuckles. I've done this, and achieved a 4 to 6 inch drop with maintaining almost full suspension travel, and no adverse affects, as of yet... You need a REALLY good welding machine, as well as a skilled welder to get some deep penetration. Take your time in "V'ing" out all of the weld spots, and slowly control the metal cooling.
DON'T mess with the spindle itself, thats scary *! Mess with the Knuckle or the control arms, and make sure all of your steering geometry stays the same way it was. I could elaborate on specific methods that worked for me, but I'd rather not. Hot rodders in the 50's were using this technique back then, research the old mags and you'll see it.

[blown240]

Oh Yeah, this is what I have so far:

[donsrods]

I take it from your post that these are pictures of your Chevy, and you are asking what the other guy is saying so you can get your car to go lower.  Is that correct?

First of all, I would never knock another guys work, and pictures can only tell so much. But I think I would be remiss if I didn't offer some suggestions relative to this bag job.

What I am seeing is the bag being way too close to very sharp edges, that will puncture the bag in a heartbeat.  These bags have to be kept far away from anything that could rub or touch them, or they will blow.  The welds and jagged metal in the picture are going to be a real problem.

I showed your pictures to my Son, because he has done a ton of bagged cars and trucks (his current S10 and '29 Fordor are both bagged, and he agreed that this installation is going to be problematic.

I would also reconsider the actual welds themselves, because they appear to be not the best. Anytime you are dealing with suspension, that can hurt or kill you, it has to be right on the money.

You really should get someone who is very familiar with suspensions, welding and bagging to offer some help to you on this install. I would hate to see you have a problem driving down the road at speed.

Please understand, I thought long and hard before posting this reply, but I do feel an obligation to at least call this to your attention so you may consider it further.


Don

[blown240]

I appreciate your words of concern.  Really I do.

The pictures are a bit decieving.  there is about 3/4 clearance all arround the bag, but yes it is hard to see.

The welds look worse than they are.  I definatly have deep penetration, I made sure of that, but I am not skilled to finish then off nicely.  At least I hope I am right.

and yes, I was asking so that I can get lower than I am.

Thanks again for lookin' out for my safety!

[donsrods]

Again, I apologize for getting my nose into your build. Thank you for taking it in the way it was intended.

I looked in a catalog from Hot Rod and Custom Supply  (www.rodncustom.com )  and they have dropped spindles for this car in 2 or 2 1/2 inch drop. They aren't cheap, like $ 395.00 a pair, but they will do the trick. I've seen people drop their own, but again, this is something one should never do.

Thanks,

Don

[blown240]

$400 isnt bad if thats the only safe option.  But I hope to be able to safely modify the arm instead.  I bet that can be done for arround $50.  and unfortunatly for me, money is an issue.

[donsrods]

and unfortunatly for me, money is an issue.


I understand only too well about tight money. Tonight the Florida lottery is up to $80 some million. I forgot to buy some tickets, but with my luck, it doesn't matter.


Good luck,


Don

[enjenjo]

I would go with the dropped uprights too, I know $400 sounds like a lot, but if you aren't capable of welding your own uprights, then you will pay as much to have yours cut up, and reworked, and probablt end up with built in problems.

[BFS57]

Hello;
I am with the others that say that using dropped spindles is the way to go. As for the cost, Do as I do SHOP hard and when you find what you need, try to get a little better deal. Start looking on EBAY or Hot Rod Hotline!
My $.02

Bruce

[GPster]

To make any sence of the design of the suspension the motion should start at a somewhat neutral position for the upper and lower a frames. If you drew the imaginary arc that those A frames would now travel you would see how exaggerated the steering is going to be with the changes. It you want to park it like that so be it but if you want to drive it like that you'll be busy unless you raise it up to normal height. I'd have to say that the bags plus dropped spindle supports would be nice but don't figure that would be all. The steering with the belcrank on the front crossmember and the inside drag link is going to reguire you to do some bending to the steering arms for the spindles. The steering arms will move up when you raise the spindles up and they won't be lined up with the bellcrank tie rod ends. GPster