How to Shorten a Steering Shaft

enjenjo · March 23, 2006, 08:56:22 PM

This of course is not the only way to shorten a shaft, but it is a good one.

enjenjo · March 23, 2006, 09:05:04 PM

next,

enjenjo · March 23, 2006, 09:08:23 PM

And the finish. I just happened to have to make up a shaft today.

rx4ord · March 23, 2006, 09:35:11 PM

Great job. Thanks for the info and the pics. Dave

Dirk35 · March 24, 2006, 12:23:50 AM

Awesome, that explains much better what I was trying to show. But mine was with a hollow shaft, so skip the part about milling it down and such, and just fast forward to the weld together and sleeving it.

That looks very nice Frank! Nice welds too.

enjenjo · March 24, 2006, 12:31:13 AM

Quote from: "Dirk35"Awesome, that explains much better what I was trying to show. But mine was with a hollow shaft, so skip the part about milling it down and such, and just fast forward to the weld together and sleeving it.

That looks very nice Frank! Nice welds too.

With a hollow shaft, you can bore out the inside a bit, then install an internal sleeve with plug welds, as well as the external sleeve.

48builder · March 24, 2006, 07:28:40 AM

Quote from: "enjenjo"
Quote from: "Dirk35"Awesome, that explains much better what I was trying to show. But mine was with a hollow shaft, so skip the part about milling it down and such, and just fast forward to the weld together and sleeving it.

That looks very nice Frank! Nice welds too.

With a hollow shaft, you can bore out the inside a bit, then install an internal sleeve with plug welds, as well as the external sleeve.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm sure I can handle that.

GPster · March 24, 2006, 08:18:21 AM

It's obvious that that newer McMaster Carr catalog is never going to leave home. Geeze, pictures and everything. The last steering shaft I shortened was for a '55 Nomad. The shaft out of the steering box was solid shafting and I just took the box apart and took the shaft to a machine shop and had it milled down on each side to a "Double D" to match the new column and wheel that I installed. Where the nylon tear strip is between the double D male and female pieces I used to use an 1/8" aluminum "Pop Rivet" . I figured that it would provide shear resistance similar to nylon and catrainly less than a steel rivet would. Of course this is in the days when you could still find tilt columns without ignition keys in them. GPster

Mac · March 25, 2006, 09:51:03 AM

Is this cross bored hole then plug welded or what is it's purpose?

enjenjo · March 25, 2006, 10:25:08 AM

Quote from: "Mac"Is this cross bored hole then plug welded or what is it's purpose?

Yes, it's plug welded.

Pete · March 25, 2006, 04:44:39 PM

Frank,
Sorry to disagree with part of your shaft splicing process
but sound engineering practice says, no radial welds on the
external sleeve. It should have several (depending on shaft dia.)
rosette welds only.

enjenjo · March 25, 2006, 08:25:17 PM

Pete, actually you are correct. Two to three plug welds on each end would be plenty in most cases, and a better way of doing it.

unklian · March 25, 2006, 10:37:50 PM

A place I worked at many years ago,used to use that
method for extending drill bits,for doing special jobs,
only without the sleeve.The parts were usually brazed,
or Silver Soldered.

Sometimes it would work great,other times,it would warp.

My guess was if the shaft was turned down too small,
the first tack would be strong enough to bend the end.

If the minor diameter was made larger,eventually you
take away too much strength from the od.

A little math calculated the diameters so that the ends
of the shafts are the same stiffness.Never had a problem
with bent drill bits again.

I'll spare you the boring math,I just use a drill bit around 84%
of the OD of the shaft,then step the other shft to suit.Works great.