How do ya'all do it

[EMSjunkie]

Getting ready to put the coupe back together, as soon
as the paint is finished.  

was trying to get a game plan together.  

I was wondering if I should "hard wire" the taillights, turn signals
horn, etc. by soldering and heat shrinking them, or.............

would it be better to use weatherpac connectors like the big 3 use.  :?


I kinda like the idea of weatherpac connectors, in case I ever have
to replace the lights.  :oops:

so, if I go with the connectors........where is a good source for them?


Thanks  for the advice


Vance

[donsrods]

I'm not a fan of soldering, as I work in the Marine business, and soldering is a no-no on boats.  I use waterproof crimp on terminals that you heat with a heat gun when you are done crimping, and the shrink tubing tightens up on the wire and keeps water out.

This stuff is available at any marine supply store or house, and lasts and lasts. My roadster was done 15 years ago, and never has had a wiring issue, and it got real wet a lot. I use marine grade wire too, because each strand of the wire is tinned, and won't corrode easily.

My personal opinion is that soldering damages the wire thru flux and heat.

JMO,

Don

[EMSjunkie]

I'm not a fan of soldering, as I work in the Marine business, and soldering is a no-no on boats.  I use waterproof crimp on terminals that you heat with a heat gun when you are done crimping, and the shrink tubing tightens up on the wire and keeps water out.

This stuff is available at any marine supply store or house, and lasts and lasts. My roadster was done 15 years ago, and never has had a wiring issue, and it got real wet a lot. I use marine grade wire too, because each strand of the wire is tinned, and won't corrode easily.

My personal opinion is that soldering damages the wire thru flux and heat.

JMO,

Don

Thanks Don, I appreciate the info.

never thought about marine applications, since I'm not really
a "water" guy.  

its about 60 miles to a decent size lake.

I'll look into those connectors.


Vance

[enjenjo]

Del City wire has the weatherpac connectors. You can also salvage the bodied from a junk car, and replace the terminals with some from a NAPA store. The pin removal tools are available a most tool suppliers, along with the proper crimper.

[Dave]

Getting ready to put the coupe back together, as soon
as the paint is finished.  

was trying to get a game plan together.  

I was wondering if I should "hard wire" the taillights, turn signals
horn, etc. by soldering and heat shrinking them, or.............

would it be better to use weatherpac connectors like the big 3 use.  :?


I kinda like the idea of weatherpac connectors, in case I ever have
to replace the lights.  :oops:

so, if I go with the connectors........where is a good source for them?


Thanks  for the advice


Vance

Ive done 4 cars with solder and heat shrink tube and never had a problem. Besides it a car not a boat  and it dont see salt water.
Ive also just used crimp connectors and heat shrink if its out side and tape if it needs to be removed some time.
Dave

[purplepickup]

Besides it's a car not a boat  and it dont see salt water.

Dave

Maybe yours don't....  

[donsrods]

Ive done 4 cars with solder and heat shrink tube and never had a problem. Besides it a car not a boat and it dont see salt water.


You are missing the point. No, it doesn't see salt water, but it does see water. Marine grade stuff is just head and shoulders above automotive grade wire and connectors in every respect.

Secondly, getting a good solder joint is dependant on the skill level of the person doing the soldering, and even the best solder joints create a hard spot in the wire.

Thirdly, even rosin core solder attacks the wires over time, and corrodes it.

Lots of cars are soldered, and that is fine. I just gave my personal opinion of why I like crimped terminals and marine grade parts for MY wiring jobs. You have your opinion, I have mine.

Don



Maybe yours don't..



Great picture, Purplepickup

[bowtietillidie]

I do a lot of soldering and I never liked the hard point that solder joints make.      But I continue to use solder because I don't like the crimpers that are sold at parts stores(NAPA) I have two one cheap and one of a higher price range (both are BELDEN) I do not like the way they crimp because  
you have to guess how much pressure to use to make the crimp.  My question is :       Is there a crimper that will crimp multi wire sizes to the same pressure for the various size wire. If anyone knows of a GOOD  
crimper that will make consistant connections without damage to the wire or  
fail to make connections tight enough    
 
        PS : Here"s a tip for making water tight connections if you don't have  
any shrink tubing/   Use black plastic(cheap) works best .   Tape joint two or three wraps than use PVC pipe glue . This make the tape shrink and seal  
and it WILL NOT come loose      

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I guess the plastic house wire type  twist nuts are not a good thing??



I know a fellow that bought a Ford 1956  F-100 years ago. All the wire was hidden for good reason.....the truck was all wired with romex

[EMSjunkie]

I guess the plastic house wire type  twist nuts are not a good thing??



I know a fellow that bought a Ford 1956  F-100 years ago. All the wire was hidden for good reason.....the truck was all wired with romex

Thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it.  


I kinda like the romex idea, I got plenty of it, plus them twisty things
to keep 'em together.    


I might stop by the local Graingers store and look around.

I've talked myself outta soldering, I don't trust my skills.  
plus, I don't need to be operating a hot soldering gun in confined areas.


Thanks again everybody.    


Vance

[enjenjo]

When I wire a car, I seldom add plugs like you are considering for the tail lights and so forth. If there is no plug, no chance to corrode. If I have to take it apart later for some reason, then I'll add the plug. This is on my own cars.

[btrc]

I used the Delphi weathertight connectors on everything I thought I might remove sometime.  I bought a bunch of 4 wire and 2 wire connecters from Waytek.  I crimped and soldered each wire to the metal spade in the connecter.  Each wire has a separate rubber bushing that seals it from weather and provides strain relief.  They really aren't very expensive when purchased in bulk.  On any other splices or single connections I used metal crimp connecters with solder too.  I used heat shrink tubing to seal the connection and provide the strain relief.  Everthing is connected to a Centech fuse panel.

Bob

[donsrods]

bowtietilidie wrote:

If anyone knows of a GOOD
crimper that will make consistant connections without damage to the wire or
fail to make connections tight enough

Absoutely.  I own one, and am going to work in my shop today, and will get you the name. I think I paid $ 80- $ 100 bucks for it, but it is so much better than those cheapie versions everybody uses The crimps are uniform, regardless of gauge, and it released automatically when the correct pressure is applied.  And, it is a one-hand operation because it holds the connector for you, freeing up the other hand to hold the wire.

As for the marine wiring thing. Honestly, I'm not trying to say this is the only way to go, but if you are going to all the trouble of wiring a car, and want it to be trouble free for years and years, marine components are just so much better.

First of all, there is an association that governs everything that is put on a boat, they are called the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) They have researched and found what is safe and sound to use in boat construction. Relative to wiring, they absolutely will not allow any soldered connections, because they find they fail too often...........not because of the salt water, as one member mentioned, but because of what the heat of soldering does to the connection. Also, any flux, even rosin core, will deteriorate the wire over time and corrode it.

I know these aren't boats, but they do get water on them, particularly the lights, etc. And the vibrations are maybe even more than a boat has, so I take no chances and use crimped on terminals.

The crimp terminals themselves (marine) are better too, because they have a higher copper content and are tinned very heavily. I also use the ones that feature shrink tubing molded right into the connector, so when I get done crimping I hit it with a heat gun, and the tubing shrinks up, sealing it to the wire.

Wire wise, marine wire differs from automotive wire in that each strand of the wire, not just the outside, is tinned. So there is much more resistance to corrosion.  And, this stuff is not hard to find. Places like West Marine, Boaters World, etc. carry all of the components, and are in most areas.
The stuff costs a little more than your Autozone stuff, but there is no comparison quality wise.

Like I said earlier, my '27 was done 15-17 years ago, and the wiring is still like the day I did it, and believe me, my roadster got wet alot. I drove it almost every day, and it rains in Florida almost every afternoon in the summer months.

Didn't want to come across as having the only opinion on this subject, but I think when a person has information that might be helpful to some other member, we have an obligation to share it. That's all.

JMO,


Don