Wiring Question

[blown240]

My 51 Chevy has no fuses in it at all, except for 1 that I installed in the power line to my air ride compressor.  Also, most of the wiring is cloth wrapped, and what has been replaced was put in by someone who isn't good at electrical work.

I want to start to rewire the car.  It's all pretty basic stuff.

I have a fuse block out of a Volvo 240.  It has 16 fuses and spade connectors to have 3 wires coming out of each fuse.  I want to run a main wire from the battery to the fuse block.  Is 8 gauge wire big enough for this?  And does it have to go to the battery, or can I run it to the positive battery cable at the starter.  And where should I mount the fuse block?

Also I want to run a 4 gauge wire to the trunk to run my 3 stereo power amps and my 2 air ride compressors.  I think this should be straight to the battery.

Also what gauge wire should I use inside the car, in the dash, to the headlights/taillights etc?  And since I want some of the fuse block to be switched power, how big of a relay should I use to turn the fuse block on and off?

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!

[rooster]

My 51 Chevy has no fuses in it at all, except for 1 that I installed in the power line to my air ride compressor.  Also, most of the wiring is cloth wrapped, and what has been replaced was put in by someone who isn't good at electrical work.

I want to start to rewire the car.  It's all pretty basic stuff.

I have a fuse block out of a Volvo 240.  It has 16 fuses and spade connectors to have 3 wires coming out of each fuse.  I want to run a main wire from the battery to the fuse block.  Is 8 gauge wire big enough for this?  And does it have to go to the battery, or can I run it to the positive battery cable at the starter.  And where should I mount the fuse block?

Also I want to run a 4 gauge wire to the trunk to run my 3 stereo power amps and my 2 air ride compressors.  I think this should be straight to the battery.

Also what gauge wire should I use inside the car, in the dash, to the headlights/taillights etc?  And since I want some of the fuse block to be switched power, how big of a relay should I use to turn the fuse block on and off?

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!

You could go to Painless wiring site and download there manual, that would give you a
good idea on wire size.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/manuals.asp

Painless uses a Maxi Fuse in there systems, probly a good idea to go with one of those.
Most fuse box's have a acc section built in them, your key switch is the relay,
off,acc,on,start.

With the price of wire and connectors not mention the work it might be wise to check
prices of new wire outfit. We got one off ebay for 100 bucks for the 49 chevy.

[blown240]

You could go to Painless wiring site and download there manual, that would give you a
good idea on wire size.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/manuals.asp

Painless uses a Maxi Fuse in there systems, probly a good idea to go with one of those.
Most fuse box's have a acc section built in them, your key switch is the relay,
off,acc,on,start.

With the price of wire and connectors not mention the work it might be wise to check
prices of new wire outfit. We got one off ebay for 100 bucks for the 49 chevy.

Ill look at the painless manual, thanks.

And I thought about buying a one on Ebay, but I would like to build one for the experience.

[enjenjo]

You need this book.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1878772066/ref=pd_sim_b_3/103-4894649-3031834?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=283155

It was written by Skip Readio, who is also a member of the RRT. It tells you everything you need to know, to build your own harness. There are a lot of tips and tricks in this book, well worth the price.

[donsrods]

Blown240:  I'm kind of like you, I like to do my own wiring from scratch, probably because I'm old fashioned. But I have to say, I think I am going to buy one of the aftermarket kits from somebody like Ron Francis, or Painless for my next wiring job. My Son has used them quite a few times, and is starting to convince me that they are a better deal.

Every component is there, and each wire is labeled and color coded the entire length as to where it goes. By the time you buy all the individual components you will need, you will have close to the same money as you would in a kit. And you won't have a mismatched system.

A car with messed up wiring can be a pain, and even worse, can go up in smoke, so it might pay to consider paying the few bucks extra up front, and getting rid of one more headache.

Don

[donsrods]

You say you are bagging your car. I thought you might like to see my Son's '29 frame. He bagged it front and back, so he can set it on the ground, or change the rake. It's a little tight back there, but he got it all in.

[blown240]

Wow that bag setup looks awesome.  

As far as the wiring goes.  I downloaded the painles manual and after looking it over, I really don't like it.  

See, I have always built cars the way I think they should be, and I have alot of wiring ideas that the prewired fuse box wont let me do.  They may end up being bad ideas, but I have to give them a try.

Of course its that same attitude that caused me to light my street on fire.  

[48builder]

You need this book.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1878772066/ref=pd_sim_b_3/103-4894649-3031834?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=283155

It was written by Skip Readio, who is also a member of the RRT. It tells you everything you need to know, to build your own harness. There are a lot of tips and tricks in this book, well worth the price.

OK. I just ordered Skip's book. I'm trying to wrap up the wiring on my car, and was going to post some questions I have. Now I will read the book, send a couple bucks Skip's way, and not bother you  

I also order Frank Munday's book on comuter controlled engines. I should understand more anout this LT1 FI engine before I try starting it up.

[Ed ke6bnl]

Well I want to thank Rooster for the link to painless, I downloaded and printed up there wiring instructions and it has more information and better delivered then a small wiring  book I bought,  I have wired most of my truck temporarily from just my past experience but there were small things that confused me and that was a great piece of information.. Thanks again ED ke6bnl and I have to give the company a thumbs up for there kit.

My 51 Chevy has no fuses in it at all, except for 1 that I installed in the power line to my air ride compressor.  Also, most of the wiring is cloth wrapped, and what has been replaced was put in by someone who isn't good at electrical work.

I want to start to rewire the car.  It's all pretty basic stuff.

I have a fuse block out of a Volvo 240.  It has 16 fuses and spade connectors to have 3 wires coming out of each fuse.  I want to run a main wire from the battery to the fuse block.  Is 8 gauge wire big enough for this?  And does it have to go to the battery, or can I run it to the positive battery cable at the starter.  And where should I mount the fuse block?

Also I want to run a 4 gauge wire to the trunk to run my 3 stereo power amps and my 2 air ride compressors.  I think this should be straight to the battery.

Also what gauge wire should I use inside the car, in the dash, to the headlights/taillights etc?  And since I want some of the fuse block to be switched power, how big of a relay should I use to turn the fuse block on and off?

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!

You could go to Painless wiring site and download there manual, that would give you a
good idea on wire size.  
http://www.painlessperformance.com/manuals.asp

Painless uses a Maxi Fuse in there systems, probly a good idea to go with one of those.
Most fuse box's have a acc section built in them, your key switch is the relay,
off,acc,on,start.

With the price of wire and connectors not mention the work it might be wise to check
prices of new wire outfit. We got one off ebay for 100 bucks for the 49 chevy.