Power Window advice for my '48

Started by 48builder, October 20, 2005, 12:12:49 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

48builder

I need to rethink my power window setup. I have a GM unit from a Lumina mounted in my drivers door, and I don't like it. It sits out too far from the door, and it looks like it will be impossible to run latch linkage from my interior latch.

I was looking on Ebay, and see a whole bunch of kits that claim to be the same as what Dolphin sells. There are also the Autoloc kits that use the original regulator. They look like an easy install.

Any thoughts? I really don't want to pay $300 for a Specialty kit, but I want the windows to work.

Thanks,

Walt
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

Okiedokie

I used window lifts from www.a1electric.com on my 53 F100 and they work great. These were an exact replacement for stock regulator for about $250. Don't know what your 48 is, but you might take a look at what they offer. Joe

HotRodLadyCrusr

I have a Specialty power window kit still in the box (hasn't even been opened yet) that I might let go.  I don't plan on using it for Big Olds.  Make me a fair offer and it's yours.
Your topless crusn buddy, Denise

Looking for old good for nothing flathead heads to use for garden project.

phat rat

Quote from: "48builder"I need to rethink my power window setup. I have a GM unit from a Lumina mounted in my drivers door, and I don't like it. It sits out too far from the door, and it looks like it will be impossible to run latch linkage from my interior latch.

I was looking on Ebay, and see a whole bunch of kits that claim to be the same as what Dolphin sells. There are also the Autoloc kits that use the original regulator. They look like an easy install.

Any thoughts? I really don't want to pay $300 for a Specialty kit, but I want the windows to work.

Thanks,

Walt

Is it a Ford? If so you can use up to late 80's Ford PW motors and adapt them to the OE window assembly and you won't have anything sticking out. It's cheaper and sturdier than the kits
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

MrMopar64

Quote from: "Joe Gaddy"I used window lifts from www.a1electric.com on my 53 F100 and they work great. These were an exact replacement for stock regulator for about $250. Don't know what your 48 is, but you might take a look at what they offer. Joe

I also used the electric-life kit from A1 electric in my Rambler it works great Their street rod kit which I used will work on any car with flat door glass

The ones I've seen that use the original regulator the piece where the handle goes still sticks through the door panel and they give you a rubber cup to cover it with. I bought one of those first but didn't care for that so decided on the other kit...... little more money but much better setup

MM64 8)
www.rgkustoms.com
www.rg-kustoms.com
Racing.... Because Baseball, Football, & Basketball
Only Require One Ball..... Gotta Race
  :lol:

Okiedokie

On my F100 they do not protrude thru the door, but they do "block " the hole where the original shaft protuded. So, if you use the same panel it would require a cover, because you can't put the new switch there. Like to see some pics of the 80's Ford stuff installed.

enjenjo

On a 63 GMC pickup, I used Lincoln motors adapted to the stock regulators. On my 65 Marlin, I used Lincoln motors adapted to the stock regulator. On a 40 Chevy 4 door, I used AMC Concord regulators and motors, had to drill two holes, and minor welding. On a 49 Mercury, I used Lincoln motors adapted to stock regulators. You seeing a trend here? :D

The easiest deal is NuRelics. Remove the old regulators, install the new power regulators in the same holes, it's that easy.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

paul2748

I used Nu-Relics in my 48 conv (including the rear quarter windows).  I have had them about six or seven years and not a bit of trouble.  As was said, they bolt right up to your stock holes.  They basically use stock regulators but add the motor to them.  Motors are regular GM so replacements should be readily available if you have trouble with one.

48builder

I will contact Denise and maybe make a deal. First I think I will try enjenjo's trick of adapting a motor to my original regulators. I have a few of them here I can play with along with a few different types of new window motors .  I like to try making things work. The Nu-relics look great, but with a daughter in college, the $450 is a little steep right now.


I'll spend a few hours this weekend and report back with what I find.
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

phat rat

Quote from: "48builder"I will contact Denise and maybe make a deal. First I think I will try enjenjo's trick of adapting a motor to my original regulators. I have a few of them here I can play with along with a few different types of new window motors .  I like to try making things work. The Nu-relics look great, but with a daughter in college, the $450 is a little steep right now.


I'll spend a few hours this weekend and report back with what I find.

Sounds to me as though you already have everything but the experience too make this happen. Free motors, regulators, only thing left is the switches. You can make it work. I'd send a pic of mine but they are in the car and hidden behind all the sheetmetal of the inner door even if I did take the door panel off
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.