Sacraficial T-Stat Housing

[hotrodbob]

Ok guys here is a problem that has been with my '48 Plymouth since I first put it together. It Eats aluminum!

When I ran a Flat head with a Edmunds head it was eaten away at the water passages. Lots a copper seal and new head gasket every two years and I'm back on the road.

I switched to a SBC V8 and every year  or so I replace the T-stat housing. Quick fix is go to a cast iron part, but then I fear the intake will get eaten. I tried a sacrificial anode cap, but the sucker is still good after 2 years and another water neck bites the dust.

I have three grounds on the engine. Two to the frame and one to the firewall. Got antifreeze in the cooling system and even added prolong after their rep said it cools the engine and neutralizes the system against electrolysis. It's no problem changing the water necks, but I just got back from HAN with it and all I needed was this sucker to have gone south on the trip.

Any ideas how to stop the thirst for alloy engine parts?

[MrMopar64]

On some of the boat stuff I've read they recommend an "Impressed current system" to stop electrolysis......
Of course I don't have a clue what this is  :oops:  not even sure you can use it on a car  (my brother is the boat guy) but thought I'd throw it out there

MM64  

[purplepickup]

You didn't say whether you had a ground to the radiator or not.  I'm pretty sure the sacrificial anode in the cap has to be grounded to work since it erodes via electrolosis.  Many radiators are isolated by rubber mounts and hoses.

McMaster Carr had some zinc and some magnesium sacrificial anode rods attached to pipe plugs of different sizes.  Maybe one of those screwed into the engine somewhere would help.  http://www.mcmaster.com/

[tomslik]

Ok guys here is a problem that has been with my '48 Plymouth since I first put it together. It Eats aluminum!

When I ran a Flat head with a Edmunds head it was eaten away at the water passages. Lots a copper seal and new head gasket every two years and I'm back on the road.

I switched to a SBC V8 and every year  or so I replace the T-stat housing. Quick fix is go to a cast iron part, but then I fear the intake will get eaten. I tried a sacrificial anode cap, but the sucker is still good after 2 years and another water neck bites the dust.

I have three grounds on the engine. Two to the frame and one to the firewall. Got antifreeze in the cooling system and even added prolong after their rep said it cools the engine and neutralizes the system against electrolysis. It's no problem changing the water necks, but I just got back from HAN with it and all I needed was this sucker to have gone south on the trip.

Any ideas how to stop the thirst for alloy engine parts?

i don't see where you ran a ground from the battery to the block....
might wanna try that 1st...

[C9]

My 455 Buicks came through from the factory with aluminum thermostat housings.
They seemed to do ok in the electrolysis dept., but one was pretty shot right up front so I got a replacement at a NAPA store.

It was cast iron.

I bet the same would be true for your Mopar.

[Normspeed]

Bob, I'm afraid it's hopeless. My suggestion,  let me know when I can come pick it up and take it home so you'll stop fretting over it.

Seriously, seems like there's usually current passing through when you get electrolysis. Have you tried a battery disconnect for when it's stored? Or are there some accessories that run a constant low amperage drain even when the key is off, like an electric clock or stereo?

Also, a jumper from block to radiator might help to get the sacrificial anode kickin'.
Norm

Ok guys here is a problem that has been with my '48 Plymouth since I first put it together. It Eats aluminum!

[hotrodbob]

Hopeless or not, tanks, but no tanks I'll hang on to it for a while.

The rad is mounted to the core support directly. No rubber mounts. The battery is in the trunk and the neg. cable goes to the frame. Engine has two grounds to the frame and one to the firewall.

I'm still using a aluminum housing. I would rather replace it then the intake.

[tomslik]

Hopeless or not, tanks, but no tanks I'll hang on to it for a while.

The rad is mounted to the core support directly. No rubber mounts. The battery is in the trunk and the neg. cable goes to the frame. Engine has two grounds to the frame and one to the firewall.

I'm still using a aluminum housing. I would rather replace it then the intake.

still, i'd run a cable FROM THE BATTERY TO THE ENGING BLOCK.
steel (frame) isn't that great of a conductor....

also might try using distilled water (if you're not already)

[hotrodbob]

I have a cable part way installed to run up to the block from the battery. Just been to lazy to finish it. I'll give that a try.

Hopeless or not, tanks, but no tanks I'll hang on to it for a while.

The rad is mounted to the core support directly. No rubber mounts. The battery is in the trunk and the neg. cable goes to the frame. Engine has two grounds to the frame and one to the firewall.

I'm still using a aluminum housing. I would rather replace it then the intake.

still, i'd run a cable FROM THE BATTERY TO THE ENGING BLOCK.
steel (frame) isn't that great of a conductor....

also might try using distilled water (if you're not already)