Edlebrock carb problems

[EMSjunkie]

You also need to make sure the throttle plates are closed. If to much of the transition slots are uncovered ,it will run to rich. This will be gassy, burn your eyes, at idle. If you can adjust your idle screws in and out with no difference than the plates are open to far.

I have that problem with my 600 Holley.
can't hardly stand to be in the shop, with both doors open and a fan
running  

but after about 10 minutes, you don't care anymore, and everything
is funny  


Vance

[Skip]

The manual-choke versions of Edlebrock carburetors are jetted for RACING right out of the box.

The electric-choke versions are jetted for street use.

Both come with instructions to use the right side port for vacuum advance.  USE THE LEFT  SIDE PORT.  The instructions assume you've bough the carb for "performance", after all, that's what it says on the box, doesn't it?  Performance implies you'll have your foot in the carb all the time.  If this is the case, use the right side vacuum port.  HOWEVER, if you intend to drive this thing on the street, USE THE LEFT SIDE PORT for vacuum advance.  THE ENGINE WILL RUN A LOT BETTER.  The full advance at idle will help clear up that rich smell out the tail pipes and it'll eliminate the characteristic puckety-puckety sound you get from a SBC running no vacuum advance at idle.

Back to the jetting.

If you dig out the instruction book that came with your carb, you'll notice that a simple metering rod and jet change is all you'll need to convert a race carb to a street carb and visa-versa.

The street version uses smaller jets and larger metering rods.  2 metering rods and 2 jets and you're in business.