Im gonna start this as a new topic.. Mucked up brakes.......

[Dave]

Ive been messing with the rear brakes on the 32 since last week or so. They keep dragging to the point that if you pull the wheel and then the drum you better have gloves on its so hot. I talked to engenjo a few times trying to figure out what the deal was and although he was very helplful we never figured it out. I bought new drums thinking they were out of round and put them on but they still sucked. I checked the axle shafts and they were 5 thou out. Good enuff for me. I adjusted the shoes went for a ride with the new drums and the same thing. Dragging and maijor heat in the drums. I changed out the axle bearings this winter with o ring bearings cause the axle seals leaked and that fixed that so while I was at it I figured out that the thing had 10 x 2 1/2 ford ranger brake shoes so I changed them out as well. Thats where the problems started. I never really had rear brakes before and now I cant get rid of the dam things :x . Well today i ordered the ford explorer svo 11 inch disk kit as I found out it will fit my 9 inch (thank god sumpin does) and I should have it wed or thurs if all goes well. I messed up and I think ill have to buy longer brake lines but so be it . I sure dunno whats causing the dragging stuff and went as far as to remove the rear brake lines after a good long drive and that did nothing also it still was wacky..It seems with the heat thats generated the drums go out of round new drums or old and the shoes are either not centering or self adjusting all the time or ?
Im not a beginer here as Ive done a lot of brake jobs in my life but this sure has me by the azzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....
I guess I really wanted disks on the rear but this is a hell of a way to get em
Ill report back if anyone really cares when I get it together.  :?:
Looks like with the brake line issue i may miss the first show of the year but thats the way it goes. The wife told me make it go after I told her I was gonna shove it in the corner and go to the sprint car races all summer
Dave

[58 Yeoman]

Just thinkin' out loud here...the E-brake works, the larger shoe is in the rear, the self adjusters work and are installed in the right place, the correct springs are on the right shoes, and the shoes just barely dragged when you adjusted them?  The push rod in the master cylinder has some play before it hits the MC?  The hose going to the rear axle is new and not restricting the flow back to the MC?  I had front hoses on a 46 Ford that looked good on the outside, but the inside would collapse when I let up on the brakes, so the cylinders wouldn't release right away.  I can't help you on anything to do with the residual valves, as I've never changed anything from stock.

Good luck Dave.

[Bruce Dorsi]

I figured out that the thing had 10 x 2 1/2 ford ranger brake shoes so I changed them out as well. Thats where the problems started.

I'm confused, but that's nothing new! :oops:

You have a 9" rear, right?

Did the Ranger ever use a 9" rear?

Is it possible that the Ranger shoes mount in a different location than normal 9" shoes, and that is why they are dragging?

Are your drums out of round, or were the mounting holes drilled off-center?  

I realize your new disc set-up should elminate the problem, but it's always nice to learn where the problem is/was.

[GPster]

You are planning a change in the master cylinder for the new disc/disc brake configuration? I only remember bits and pieces of the topics posted here (and there is no certainty that I get that right) but what seems to be happening to you might be that the drum brakes are not releasing after an application. The shoes get warn down to gain some clearance and then they are so far from the drums that you are only getting partial braking at the rear so you adjust them back up and you get that heat and wear until the shoes are back where you have minimal brakes again. Fitst question. do you still have the automatic adjusters on the back brakes? Maybe these things aren't right and they are over tightening the back shoes. Another thought, what are you using for a master cylinder? I read at one time about the check valve in the master cylinder for a drum brake application is designed to hold back about 15# PSI. If you have a Wildwood rear drum pressure reducer in the line and the correct master cylinder you might be over correcting for the return springs in the drum brakes and not letting the shoes return. I hate to be surprised by something I haven't thought about so I over-think everything to the point that I'm scared (or scarey). GPster

[sirstude]

I think I mentioned this once before, but check the brake pedal.  I had the same problem on my Studebaker after I had it running for a couple of years.  I was underneath it one day and found that the brake pedal was really gummed up on the pivot shaft.  Took everything off and cleaned up the rust and crud on the shaft.  I then drilled the brake pedal for a zerk fitting so I could grease the whole mess and never had the problem again.  Even with a return spring on the brake pedal (you do have one don't you) it was still holding some pressure on the master cylinder.  That return spring is really important, as you don't want the master cylinder to be holding the weight of the brake pedal all the time.

Doug

[GPster]

Fitst question. do you still have the automatic adjusters on the back brakes? Maybe these things aren't right and they are over tightening the back shoes. GPster

Additional thought, If the adjusters are in wrong and you still have the automatic adjusters on the rear brakes that would be a crazy source ti find also. And that deal about the pedal return is a very good comment. The master cylinder won't bleed back unless the piston is allowed to return to its neutral position. GPster

[Dave]

Fitst question. do you still have the automatic adjusters on the back brakes? Maybe these things aren't right and they are over tightening the back shoes. GPster

Additional thought, If the adjusters are in wrong and you still have the automatic adjusters on the rear brakes that would be a crazy source ti find also. And that deal about the pedal return is a very good comment. The master cylinder won't bleed back unless the piston is allowed to return to its neutral position. GPster

pedal return ok adjusters ok all the above ok. Believe me ive done checked it all guys. And ya id like to find the answer too.. I havent given up cause I am not a quiter but im going to disks and ill still ponder the drum thing and hopefully find an answer even if someone else gives it to me ill share it.
Im not done yet so stay tuned ....................we could have problems with the disks also but I dont expect it . Im gonna try the m/c that I have fore I get a new one but if I need one ill get it. The explorer rear calipers are fairly small so I think it will work especially with the residual valve which will keep the fluid from flowing back to the m/c
Dave :?

[Dave]

Ive been messing with the rear brakes on the 32 since last week or so. They keep dragging to the point that if you pull the wheel and then the drum you better have gloves on its so hot. I talked to engenjo a few times trying to figure out what the deal was and although he was very helplful we never figured it out. I bought new drums thinking they were out of round and put them on but they still sucked. I checked the axle shafts and they were 5 thou out. Good enuff for me. I adjusted the shoes went for a ride with the new drums and the same thing. Dragging and maijor heat in the drums. I changed out the axle bearings this winter with o ring bearings cause the axle seals leaked and that fixed that so while I was at it I figured out that the thing had 10 x 2 1/2 ford ranger brake shoes so I changed them out as well. Thats where the problems started. I never really had rear brakes before and now I cant get rid of the dam things :x . Well today i ordered the ford explorer svo 11 inch disk kit as I found out it will fit my 9 inch (thank god sumpin does) and I should have it wed or thurs if all goes well. I messed up and I think ill have to buy longer brake lines but so be it . I sure dunno whats causing the dragging stuff and went as far as to remove the rear brake lines after a good long drive and that did nothing also it still was wacky..It seems with the heat thats generated the drums go out of round new drums or old and the shoes are either not centering or self adjusting all the time or ?
Im not a beginer here as Ive done a lot of brake jobs in my life but this sure has me by the azzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....
I guess I really wanted disks on the rear but this is a hell of a way to get em
Ill report back if anyone really cares when I get it together.  :?:
Looks like with the brake line issue i may miss the first show of the year but thats the way it goes. The wife told me make it go after I told her I was gonna shove it in the corner and go to the sprint car races all summer
Dave

Ok got the ford motor sports kit today and wouldnt ya know you have to remove and replace the bearings for the 9 inch cause they require spacers for the bearing plates to hold the bearings... Well im not gonna do that.. After some test fitting and looking at the parking brake system I found a way to remove the shoes for the parking brake and get em back on after I assemble the kit. If you ever get one of these kits you will understand. Its a * to do :cry:  Once you get the p/b crap outta the way you can work on the thing. Im gonna cut the spacers snd the install em in 2 pieces bolt the retaining plates down and go for it. Im gonna have the kid at work that runs the wire edm cut em for me I hope as the wire is like 20 thousands thick so I wont loose a lot of the  original od that the spacer needs to hold the bearing. Yup it will work just fine.. Some times you just gotta do things your own way and dam i just put 75 bucks worth of o ring bearings in the thing this winter and Im not gonna ruin em.
Ill tackle the stupid drum problem after i get this thing going................
Dave