Paint estimate for roadster pickup.

[brianangus]

Today I went to the local PPG dealer, to try and work up some kind of comprehensive quote for paint for the roadster pickup. I will be painting it myself, so needed to price out material. Normally, to paint a full size sedan with acrilic enamel, I always used to buy 3 quarts of paint, a gallon of reducer, and a pint of activator. This was enough to give 3 full coats on a full size sedan. If I had to do inside the door jambs as well as the exterior, I would buy a full gallon of paint. This is using conventional paint equipment, not HVLP.  Paint technologies have changed a lot, and this time I am going to use Omni basecoat/clearcoat for the job. I will be painting it "2004 Chev SSR Slingshot Yellow"-----I know from experience that this paint doesn't cover worth a *, (it took an entire quart to do the engine and transmission). When I went in and asked to price out 6 quarts, the salesman asked if I was painting a motor home---he said that at a 1:1 mix ratio, that would give 12 quarts of sprayable paint..  I explained that no, only a small pick-up truck with no roof. But--------I am going to have it apart to spray it in 3 batches. One batch of parts will be the grill shell, hood, tailgate, steering column, front splash apron, and 4 wheels.   The second batch will be the bed, the bed valances, and the body shell. The third batch will be all the fenders, splash aprons, and running boards (Iwill spray them in place on the chassis).  Then, assuming I have enough paint to cover all this adequately, I will probably need at the very least a gallon of clear, along with the appropriate reducer to give everything 2 coats of clear.---I intend to clear the 3 batches about 1/2 an hour after the last color coat on each batch flashes (or whatever time interval the instructions call for), without any additional sanding in between. The number of peices in each batch is dictated by the size of spray booth I have to work with.---All told, for 6 quarts of color along with the equal ammount of reducer, 1-gallon of clear, and the appropriate reducers for it, I am looking at about $500 including taxes. I don't think thats a bad deal. There is a more expensive line than the Omni, but it costs over twice as much.

[Dave]

Today I went to the local PPG dealer, to try and work up some kind of comprehensive quote for paint for the roadster pickup. I will be painting it myself, so needed to price out material. Normally, to paint a full size sedan with acrilic enamel, I always used to buy 3 quarts of paint, a gallon of reducer, and a pint of activator. This was enough to give 3 full coats on a full size sedan. If I had to do inside the door jambs as well as the exterior, I would buy a full gallon of paint. This is using conventional paint equipment, not HVLP.  Paint technologies have changed a lot, and this time I am going to use Omni basecoat/clearcoat for the job. I will be painting it "2004 Chev SSR Slingshot Yellow"-----I know from experience that this paint doesn't cover worth a *, (it took an entire quart to do the engine and transmission). When I went in and asked to price out 6 quarts, the salesman asked if I was painting a motor home---he said that at a 1:1 mix ratio, that would give 12 quarts of sprayable paint..  I explained that no, only a small pick-up truck with no roof. But--------I am going to have it apart to spray it in 3 batches. One batch of parts will be the grill shell, hood, tailgate, steering column, front splash apron, and 4 wheels.   The second batch will be the bed, the bed valances, and the body shell. The third batch will be all the fenders, splash aprons, and running boards (Iwill spray them in place on the chassis).  Then, assuming I have enough paint to cover all this adequately, I will probably need at the very least a gallon of clear, along with the appropriate reducer to give everything 2 coats of clear.---I intend to clear the 3 batches about 1/2 an hour after the last color coat on each batch flashes (or whatever time interval the instructions call for), without any additional sanding in between. The number of peices in each batch is dictated by the size of spray booth I have to work with.---All told, for 6 quarts of color along with the equal ammount of reducer, 1-gallon of clear, and the appropriate reducers for it, I am looking at about $500 including taxes. I don't think thats a bad deal. There is a more expensive line than the Omni, but it costs over twice as much.

That sound cheap enuff to me. But just because im the way I am id buy a little extra paint.. But it looks like you may have figured for extra. If i remember right all the bcc is a 1:1 mix till you get to the clear. The dbc or dcc or whatever they call it  is more expensive than the omni and thats what I used for my 34 when I did it. Heck time I got the 34 painted I had a lot more than that in primer
Good luck and dont forget to post pics when ur done
Dave

[parklane]

What we've done is to tint the primer to that of the final colour. It will save you time and $$$

John

[kb426]

Just in case you're interested, Kirker automotive urethane. It comes in 40 colors which may be a problem. Buy it from smartshoppersinc.com for really competitive prices. I used their single stage urethane on my truck and was pleased.  They offer good primers also.  Kirker has a website but I don't think you'll see anything that isn't on the other guys' site.

[btrc]

I didn't paint my '37 myself but I did spec a PPG single stage.  I'm very happy with it and the best part is it is a simple to fix any rock chips you may get because there is no clear to deal with.  It's more expensive than the Omni BC but by the time you figure in the clear it probably is cheaper.  If your doing a solid, non-metalic color that's the way I would go.

[rumrumm]

The Sherwin-Williams yellow basecoat cost me $634.00 for one gallon. I don't know how much the House of Kolor clear was that my body man uses. Paint prices are getting pretty scary.

[tom36]

The Sherwin-Williams yellow basecoat cost me $634.00 for one gallon. I don't know how much the House of Kolor clear was that my body man uses. Paint prices are getting pretty scary.

You got that right!! Tom..

[kroozn]

Painting solid colors I prefer using single stage urethane over base coat/cleat coat.
Fewer coats means less chance for mistakes and dirt.
Easier to touch up as has been posted already.

It won't matter to you with yellow, but when clear gets scratches they show white.
Repeated washings and wipe downs can make a gray haze over dark colors.

Use a tinted sealer to cut down on the number of coats to get good coverage.
Good luck
Carl

[jakesbackyard]

Omni is a great product for the price. In our Auto Body program we have Omni and Global mixing systems. Many yellows have poor hiding qualities no matter what the system, but one of the reasons that Omni is so economical is that every can (whether single stage MTK or MBC base coat) has half color and half basemaker binder (clear). A quart of MBC contains roughly 1000 parts - 500 color tints and 500 basemaker clear. You make it ready to spray in a 1 to 1 mix with reducer and now you have 25% color and 75% clear solvents/basemaker. Hence it does not cover well. Compare that to Global - there is no basemaker - just color tints. Mixed 1 to 1 and you still have 50% color.

What we do with almost all Omni mixes (with PPG tech center OK) is leave out half of the clear basemaker in the original mix. Now when you reduce it to spray you have about 33% color to 66% solvent/basemaker. It has improved the hiding qualities and we usually get coverage in 3 coats. Remember that by leaving out half of the basemaker your quart can is only 3/4 of a quart. I'm guessing that 6 - 3/4 quarts  would still be close to doing all your truck and have a little touch up left.

The Omni sealer - MP180 - can be tinted also with MTK single stage color that will help.

Here's the place to go for instructions on all the PPG products, including Omni. It won't say anything about having the jobber leave out half of the basemaker though.

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmProductInfo.asp

MC161 is good clear for the price also, but I would suggest 3 coats if you plan on cutting and buffing.

I also have a formula for converting Omni base to a single stage good for jambs and touching up chips which was given to us by the PPG guys.

(1part MBC : 1part 161clear) then mixed in a ratio of 3 parts of that to 1 part hardener and 1/2 part reducer. Don't put the reducer in if you are dabbing in chips.

This sure got to be long, but hope it helps.

[rumrumm]

Thanks for the good information, Jake.