Old time oil filter cannister and new replacement elements.

GPster · February 17, 2005, 09:38:47 AM

OK,I'm talking about a '53 Chevy pressure-oiling 235. Every time I go to get a replacement filter it is the placement for a substition for the original. There are two or three gaskets included in the box but none of them are as big and fit the same as the original so I have been re-using the original and including the best choice of the included gaskets. I start this thing up every once in a while. because it is sitting on $8,000.00 worth of textured/stained concrete it manages to burp out the top of the canister every time I do this. It coats the frame rail, steering box, rags and plywood but it's getting close to "shakey ground(concrete)" I've got a piece of rubber gasket material and I'm going to cut a gasket. When I do this I will remove the filter and check the bottom of the canister for any remnants of the Ohio River flood that might have settled there. The filter is new. The oil is new and the engine has been run enough after flushing and draining so that any moisture remnants have been evaporated out. This canister sits up-right with the re-movable side on the top. The oil from the filter comes in the bottom and into the center stand of the filter. It flows out the side of that stand and into the center of the filet element. It flows out of the filter and into the interior of the canister which has an outlet about half-way up the side (which allows heavies to settle in the bottom half of the canister). There is a spring in this assembly. Isn't this spring supposed to be between the top of the filter element and the lid of the cannister so that if the filter is plugged the oil pressure will force the elemnt up the center support of the cannisterand allow the oil to by-pass the filter element and flow to the interior of the cannister so it can go to the oil passages un-filtered? When I take this thing apart I want to make sure I'm right. And there is only supposed to be one spring right? I sometimes feel like I'm 16 again (and I've lost 40 years of experience) and when something that I've touched,leaks it's because I've done something wrong. GPster

rooster · February 17, 2005, 11:39:05 AM

Joe, when ratbandit and I drain the oil and remove the filter on his old 6 banger Ill pay close attention to how it comes apart!

58 Yeoman · February 17, 2005, 12:34:05 PM

I may be wrong, but I always thought that oil came into the filter from the outside surface and went to the middle, much like an air filter (for more surface area). I remember changing that style filter many times, but don't remember if the spring goes on top or bottom.

Come to think of it, when my Chevy V8 had the canister, the spring was in the bottom. Shouldn't yours be the same?

GPster · February 17, 2005, 01:59:25 PM

I think on the V8 style of cannister/filter arrangements the end of the filter that was against the block had a gasket on it so that when the filter was good the spring forced the filter against the block. When/if the filter was plugged pressure overcame the pressure of the spring and allowed the gasket seal to be broken and oil the get into the cannister and back into the block. The reason I thought that the oil came into the center of the filter and out was that if it went the other way any sludge would form on the outsideof the element and could cause it to crush the filter. That and the fitting for the oil pressure gauge is on block where the line from the outside of the cannister goes to the block. I thought that it wouldn't be of as much help if you knew that the oil pump was working but didn't know if it was getting anywhere. Thank you both for the replies. Yes, Rooster, I will be interested to see what you find out. It sometimes is scary for me. When you work on some of this old stuff and you put it back together the way you took it apart, You are making the assumption that the last guy that worked on it knew what he was doing. I always spent a lot of time figuring out how things worked rather than being told why, but that doesn't mean I'm right. GPster Boy, It's scarey when the King's away.

GPster · February 25, 2005, 05:39:09 PM

I took it apart and pulled the filter and everything appeared correct. Because of all the flushing and draining that this engine went though after the flood, there was still a trace of water in it. When I quit getting that brown foaminess in the oil (one of those Aussie colors?) I thought that the heat of running must have evaporated the water out of the oil. The only thing I hadn't planned on is that the remote filter canister traps the oil some. Had a little trouble getting the element out because it was frozen to the bottom of the canister. The ice in the bottom must be what caused the canister to blow the gasket on start-up because the oil couldn't go any further until it got the filter's bypass to open. I'll give it a little running time without a filter in the canisterso it will be a little easier to get any trapped water out of it before I call it cured. GPster

rooster · February 26, 2005, 09:30:22 PM

Quote from: "GPster"I took it apart and pulled the filter and everything appeared correct. Because of all the flushing and draining that this engine went though after the flood, there was still a trace of water in it. When I quit getting that brown foaminess in the oil (one of those Aussie colors?) I thought that the heat of running must have evaporated the water out of the oil. The only thing I hadn't planned on is that the remote filter canister traps the oil some. Had a little trouble getting the element out because it was frozen to the bottom of the canister. The ice in the bottom must be what caused the canister to blow the gasket on start-up because the oil couldn't go any further until it got the filter's bypass to open. I'll give it a little running time without a filter in the canisterso it will be a little easier to get any trapped water out of it before I call it cured. GPster

Greg drained the crankcase today, first 1/2 quart was water! He didnt do the filter yet, filled all the cyclinders with fuel oil, remover the top cover and found that #1 cyc has a bent push rod. Top of head was fairly clean.

No foamy oil was found! Can this water just be from sweating?

If things go right, may bring home tommoro! Master cyclinder from last weeks swap meet were a match.

GPster · February 26, 2005, 10:14:21 PM

Quote from: "rooster"

Greg drained the crankcase today, first 1/2 quart was water! He didnt do the filter yet,

No foamy oil was found! Can this water just be from sweating

The foamy that I had was after the circulating through the oil system so I imagine if it set long enough the oil would try to reach it's natural stateand the water would sink to the bottom. Possibly if he doesn't find and water in the bottom of the filter canister where it would have trapped out like it did in mine, the engine never rolled over and ran with water in the oil. I suppose that condensation would be a plausible expanation for that but a half a quart seems like a lot. Has he wrenched this motor by hand yet? I have seen valves stick in the seat on engine that have been dormant for a while especially ones where the spark plugs have been removed. That could be a cause for the bent pushrod, but if he hasn't tried to roll it it probably was done when it last ran. Has he had a chance to check out that clutch pedal yet? GPster

rooster · February 26, 2005, 10:28:50 PM

He hasent tryed to roll it over yet, but that dont mean that someone else hasent tryed ! We got the car with the plugs out. They were laying in battery box. I looked at the pully where the crank is and there seems to be be somthing other than a nut to grab hold of, looks like a curved fitting sorta like what a handcrank might mate up to!

The clutch seems to be stuck! Inspection cover is off for some reason! Any ideas?

enjenjo · February 27, 2005, 12:22:55 AM

Quote from: "rooster"He hasent tryed to roll it over yet, but that dont mean that someone else hasent tryed ! We got the car with the plugs out. They were laying in battery box. I looked at the pully where the crank is and there seems to be be somthing other than a nut to grab hold of, looks like a curved fitting sorta like what a handcrank might mate up to!

The clutch seems to be stuck! Inspection cover is off for some reason! Any ideas?

It is what a handcrank goes into, Chevy had that well into the 50's

If the clutch is stuck, push the pedal down, and squirt some soapy water into it, and try to free it up that way. It breaks the rust loose, but won't hurt the clutch disc.