This might come in handy for someone....

[1FATGMC]

   

Since I started work on my Lakester I've needed to cut some thick pieces of aluminum to machine in either the mill or lathe or both.  I was having problems doing this with just a hacksaw, so I thought I would see if I could convert my 14 inch wood bandsaw to one that would cut aluminum.

Well I did that and it seems to work pretty good.  If you are interested take a look HERE .

Hope this maybe helps someone else,

Sum

[purplepickup]

Sumner, I always admire your creativity.

It's good to see you're working on the lakester.  On your rear end...it seems that if you machined some pinion (spider) gears, like you talked about, with a couple teeth in them to lock the side gears that would work.  It would lock the rear plus disassemble the way it should.  If you decide to do something different, like a splined sleeve to connect the two axles inside the carrier, or anything requiring a spline, I can probably call in a favor and have a shop shaper cut the spline if you can come up with the spline spec.  But the side gears already have the spline so using them makes more sense.

I can tell you're excited.  I'm sure you'll keep us posted on your progress...you'd better anyway!

[river1]

  i also admire your ceativity  

what size aluminum are lookin for, for the adapter for the disc brake rotor?


i've been tryin to get to a salvage yard (davis salvage) that i go to alot. they have a good size room full of aluminum.

later jim

[parklane]

Sum   Are    you sure you're not a dutchman?? Our favorite word is free    

[1FATGMC]

George:

If you decide to do something different, like a splined sleeve to connect the two axles inside the carrier, or anything requiring a spline, I can probably call in a favor and have a shop shaper cut the spline if you can come up with the spline spec.

Thanks George I'll keep that in mind.  I don't want to weld the gears to lock them as then I couldn't take it apart the way it is made and I might not want to run it locked anyway.  I want the options for both ways.  I'm hoping I can figure out how to maching the gears with just a couple teeth, but I have a backup plan I might try first.

Jim:

what size aluminum are lookin for, for the adapter for the disc brake rotor?

Jim, Benny found me a piece that I think will work really well.  I'll keep it in mind though that you might be able to find something there if I need it.  The nearest salavge for me is Farmington, NM, 135 miles one way.  I've got the pieces I'm using now there, but out of stopping there three times they have only had some aluminum once.

c ya, Sum

[unklian]

Nice job on the band saw.

Of course you post it AFTER I gave my extra wood cutting band saw
to my brother inlaw.    Like I need something to do.

On the spider gears,I think just greasing them should be fine.

If you decide an open diff gives too much wheel spin,
you can probably weld up a couple teeth on each of the
stock spider gears.That way the diff can still be disassembled,and your not tieing up alot of effort making special spider gears.

You can split your driven sprockets in half,like to Karting guys do,
so it will be ALOT faster to change gears.

Don't forget,you will need some method of adjusting chain tension.
A idler sprocket would work,but reliability is a concern.Adjustable motor mounts would be my choice.Build them with more adjustment,
front to back,than you think you will need.

I think I would study drag race biike chassis for ideas.Star Racing was using frames where the motor mounted to a large aluminum plate,bolted to the bottom of the chassis.There are no steel frame members below the motor,just this "heavy" aluminum plate.Undo 4 bolts,one on each corner of the plate,throttle cable and fuel line,and the motor comes out the bottom in a couple minutes.

And when you layout the chassis,leave room for bigger water tanks than you think you need.Because when you move up to the turbo,you can use the water to cool the intercooler as well.

[Leon]

To lock the rear you may want to drill and tap a holes behind the two idler spider gears and screw a bolt into each so the end of the bolt that has been turned down to a round post screws into a hole in the gear.  That way to go back to an open rear you would just remove the two bolts.

[C9]

I've heard it both ways as far as the locking diff on the salt goes.

Although most seem to favor the locker.

Are you running a late diff?
If so, mini-spools don't cost much.

$34. for the Ford 9".
$99. for a GM.

Hope you're running a Ford....

[Bob Paulin]

Sum:

One of the metalworking magazines I get had a recent article on doing exactly what you have done - converting a woodworking bandsaw to work with metal.

While their article involved a bit more metalworking and machining, the principle was the same - slowing the blade down through pulley ratios.

I noticed that you left your long belt in place in order to quickly convert it back to woodworking use - as they also did.

B.P.

[john zemba]

I have a woodworking bandsaw that I was trying to convert, and to be honest I completely forgot about speed.. I ruined 2 blades  now I know why.   Any guesstamation on speed difference. I guess I could look at catalogs and check the difference. :oops:

[purplepickup]

Sum, I was thinking about the option of welding the teeth in the spider gears adjacent to the contact teeth.  Those gears are probably made from 8620 that has been carburized and welding it may create a potential for cracking.  Also,  I think welding would distort the gear bores enough that you might not be able to assemble or disassemble the shaft/gear assemblies.  There's not much tolerance on that fit now.  

....just some thoughts....I could be wrong  

[slocrow]

(George said)-"it seems that if you machined some pinion (spider) gears, like you talked about, with a couple teeth in them to lock the side gears"

Sum; If I remember correctly, those two tooth locking spiders were available years ago and were made of bronze or brass. Maybe you can still find them through e-bay or google.....Frank

[GPster]

I checked out you build site and only have one suggestion that sometimes gets lost. On a chain-drive set-up you have sprockets on both ends. Don't forget that the change-in-ratio can also be accomplished by the engine sprocket a tooth at a time. Sometimes this is forgotten because of the trouble to get to that sprocket, the clearance in the casting to run a larger/smaller sprocket or the clearance neccessary for the up/down movement of the rear wheel and spocket with the suspension. With the engine and differential mounted solid you can work out the some of the alignment issues and with a (or two) extra sprocket(s) put in for chain adjustment. Case-in-point would be early Harley Servicars. On your locked differential idea. I had toyed with a similar idea for a motorcycle differential differential but was concerned about lack of lubrication on the spider gears. First thought was to use chain-lube on them. Second thought was to build a bowl-like cover for that part of the assembly from the inside of the differential bearing, out and over the differential casting and flanged where it would fasten on to the back of the ring gear (sprocket) diferential flange. Maybe something like this could be filled with a very stiff lubricant that would slow down any movement of the spider gears but would not lock the differential. It would be something that would not have to be disturbed during sprocket/ratio changes. GPster

[unklian]

There is a motorcycle powered formula car class that runs at some local road race courses around hear.

I understand there are guys now running modified automotive differentials like you show,open with no cover.

I think if you got creative with some Zerk fittings and rubber O-rings,
it would be bullet proof for your application.

[1FATGMC]

In case you guys didn't notice I started a new post on the lakester and had comments to most of you who posted on this post.

Thanks for the input,

Sum