Plug wires

[zzebby]

Need some advice on spark plug wires that (1)  resistant to header burning  and (2) have some adjustment to the angle that they point away from the plug.
Have a BBC where some of the wires touch the header.  I know that I'll need to dimple the header with a well placed ball peen blow,  but what brand stands up to the heat best ?
Some plugs will need a straight on boot and others will need a 45 or 90 degree angle boot so this will be a "make it as you go kit".  I assume I'll buy an unterminated kit so that means I'll need a crimper and some of them I've seen are really quality challenged.
Wjhat works for you??

Any advice on heat shields.........ala factory type or ?

zzebby

[348tripower]

I put a set of the figerlass woven or what ever they are covers on the boots. They were well worth the cost. I haven't had a burnt up wire since.

Don

Need some advice on spark plug wires that (1)  resistant to header burning  and (2) have some adjustment to the angle that they point away from the plug.
Have a BBC where some of the wires touch the header.  I know that I'll need to dimple the header with a well placed ball peen blow,  but what brand stands up to the heat best ?
Some plugs will need a straight on boot and others will need a 45 or 90 degree angle boot so this will be a "make it as you go kit".  I assume I'll buy an unterminated kit so that means I'll need a crimper and some of them I've seen are really quality challenged.
Wjhat works for you??

Any advice on heat shields.........ala factory type or ?

zzebby

[C9]

I've done real well with Accel's 8.8mm spiral wound resistance wires.

This is a semi-universal kit.
The distributor ends need to be put together, but no big deal.
Accel puts their little anvil/die crimp tool in the box and if you clamp the die side in a vise it works well.

The boots are owner adjustable as to angle.

Note the 'home-made' wire hangers/brackets/whatever you want to call it.
It's comprised of an Adel clamp off the lower two rocker covers.
Wires are kept separated by Moroso's very good plug wire separators.
I use two sets of them and make use mostly of the 3 and 4 slot pieces although the 2 slot pieces are used as well.
A setup similar to this should work fine with your BBC if you run your wires around the back of the head.

The plug wires fit fine in the distributor - a Mallory Unilite - and the cap terminals look to be the same size as a stock GM distributor so the 8.8mm wires should work there.

[C9]

Here's a close-up of #5 & 7 so you can get an idea of what the boots look like.
P.A.W. sells the Accel wires at a reasonable price.
Good service from them as well.

[Jokester]

I know that I'll need to dimple the header with a well placed ball peen blow,  [/quote]

Rather than hammer the header directly, I've had better luck and better aim by laying a piece of steel pipe or solid bar against the header tube and then hitting the bar with the hammer.  Lot less chance of hitting the wrong spot on the header tube.

I agree with the woven boots for heat protection.  Kinda ugly, but very functional.


.bjb      

[Charlie Chops 1940]

I've used Taylor 8mm wires on my BBC's with headers and never had any "touching" problems. I think the were the 135 degree ends. With R&M looms they stood up off the headers very well.

Charlie

[enjenjo]

I'm sold on Taylor wires too. but I use MadeTorYou stands and seperators. The good Echlin wire from NAPA are good too, and come with a pretty good set of wire seperators.

[zzebby]

Thanks Guys, but more questions.
C9  how are the plug end boots owner adjustable?  Just bend them to the needed angle and they stay?   That would be preferred as the angle varies.   Does the provided tool crimp the ends well enough that they can be pulled off the dizzy and not leave the terminal behind?
348 tripower     I'm not familiar with these woven fiberglass boots. Are they available on line??
Jokester        good idea ,  I'll do that.  Aim only works in dark, wet, hairy areas..............
Charlie   Enjenjo         Do the taylor or echlin wires have the adjustable feature or do I drive down to the parts store and go back and forth with different wires till I get a set?
thanks

[enjenjo]

I usually use the 135 degree boots, they can be adjusted to some extent. I never tried adjusting the echlin boots.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Using a loom  or clips of some sort that attach to the valve cover rail gives the advantage of stabilizing the wire and letting you "aim" it at the plug and make the wire lay the way you want it. The 135 degree ends haven't needed any adjustment for the big blocks I've done.  You work from the plug to the dizzy...but I'm sure you know that....

I got tired of makeshift plugwire crimping tools and bought a  ratcheting crimping tool specifically for plug wires. It puts the indention in the terminal. I haven't had one come apart since I got it. Cost about $60 8-10 years ago. But for the life of me I can't remember now who makde it.  I'll try to remember to look in the morning and post it.

Charlie

[Jokester]

ZZ, the woven plug boots are available from Belden or Standard Motors in their wire and cable lines.  I'll look it up at work tomorrow and post it then.


.bjb                  

[enjenjo]

ZZ, the woven plug boots are available from Belden or Standard Motors in their wire and cable lines.  I'll look it up at work tomorrow and post it then.


.bjb                  

You can get them at NAPA

[C9]

"C9 how are the plug end boots owner adjustable? Just bend them to the needed angle and they stay? That would be preferred as the angle varies. Does the provided tool crimp the ends well enough that they can be pulled off the dizzy and not leave the terminal behind?"


Bend them a little past the angle you want.
They will stay where bent.
I don't know if they will do a 90 degree turn and stay at 90 degrees, but a couple of mine are fairly sharp angled.  More than likely they'll do a 90 just fine.

(I meant to mention earlier that the insulator boots allow removal and replacement many times with no problems.
I probably pulled the first set of insulator boots off the plugs 20-30 times with no ill effects.  Pay attention to where the brass terminal is inside the insulator boot before you push them on.  The brass remains bent and the rubber insulator boot tries to return to straight ahead.  Just takes a little thinking about it.)

As far as removing the distributor ends of the wires, take the usual precautions and pull on the insulators and not on the wires.  A little twisting helps.  (Note that the distributor ends on my wires are 90 degrees - straights are available.)
I've had the coil wire off numerous times on both sets of the Accel wires I used on the 32 and no problems.

A little off the subject, but Mallory makes an adapter setup that utilizes the Ford style male terminals on a larger diameter distributor cap.
I think Mallory or someone else makes a similar male terminal cap.
Those strike me as the way to go.  My experience with the male cap terminals has been very positive.  Plug wires can be removed at the distributor many times with no ill effects.

Fwiw - the black hose you see tie wrapped to the plug wires are for abrasion protection from the hood panels inner sides.
The big Buick is a tight fit in the 32's engine compt.

[Jokester]

Standard Motors # SPP35.

.bjb

[zzebby]

Thanks guys.
I'll run down to NAPA tomorrow and order the boots and check out the echlin wires.  I do prefer the plain black color.  If that doesn't pan out then I'll order some Taylor 135 degree ones on line.
Will post a result,  maybe even a pic.