Points Question

[50 F1]

I Have a  1967 283 SBC on a run stand that is going into a car soon. I rebuilt it two years ago. Runs good. About a year ago I went to start it and it didn't seem to have spark. I didn't investigate, just let it sit tell today.

Stock points distributor

I am thinking points, condenser or coil.

My multi meter doesn't have the correct settings to check the condenser.
The points are burned a little but what I am not sure about is the arm that the moveable point is on is bluish brown from heat. Is that normal?

I have a Pertronix Flame Thrower coil. They are supposed to be internally resisted so I didn't put a ballast resistor on it. When it was running the coil seemed to get pretty hot and the motor didn't run very smooth once the coil got hot.

Tried checking the coil but I wasn't having any luck with my free HF multi meter

I need to charge the battery tomorrow. I will check for spark then.

What do you think about not having a ballast resistor with the Pertronix coil. And the blue points?

Thanks Mike

[jaybee]

Point arm blued like this?  https://content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2016_10/DSC_0494.thumb.JPG.d7a18b618d9486d64bc4e98fa1c6d4ce.JPG

Has the engine been left with the key on, so it runs voltage through the points constantly?

Coil overheated, you said. Hmm, find a good enough multimeter to check the coil. It may have an internal short which is running excess voltage through the points.

[50 F1]

Thanks Jaybee

Yes the points look just like that but the blue/brown goes farther up the arm.

It is possible I left the ignition switch on without the motor running for a few seconds.

[jaybee]

If everything is OK a few seconds with the ignition left on while the engine is stopped won't cause that level of overheating. I suspect a bad coil and would check that coil out thoroughly.

[kb426]

One of my friends has points in a mustang. He went through several condensers before getting a good unit. My exp. with coils is that they work when cold and when hot fail. I would swap out your coil because that is the easiest to do 1st.

[50 F1]

Thanks for the comments

I was able to check the coil. The info I found says the primary side should be 1.5 to 1.7 ohms. Mine checks out at 1.7 ohms

The secondary side the info I found says 11,000 ohms min. and 13,500 ohms is good. Mine checks out at 9,300 ohms.

I have new coil, points and condenser coming and a ballast resistor.

When putting in the car specs. in Summits order form I used 67 Impala. So I guess I'm getting a stock coil. So would a 67 impala have a ballast resistor, a resisted wire in the harness or a internally resisted coil? I want to wire in the ballast resistor but if the coil is internally resisted, I will have to much voltage drop at the coil after it's started.

I filed the points they were burned pretty bad and was able to get motor to fire but it's not good. Pretty sure it's the coil.

Oh, I have 2.5-year-old gas in the tank. That can't help much.

I should have the parts this weekend and new gas. I will post what's going on.

Thanks Mike

[jaybee]

You'll need a ballast resistor.

[50 F1]

Thanks for the help.

New coil, points and condenser. And a ballast resister wired in now. Starts and runs great again.

Thanks Mike

[jaybee]

Great, glad you got it running well without a lot of just throwing parts at it. That gets real frustrating real fast.