Won't start---new battery

[butch27]

My T suddenly won't turn over OR click..Drove it Sat.
Has new battery (full) and started tested  great.
 Could it be the ign. switch? Oh I did put in a new
voltage regulator last week..It's wired as a "69 Ford.  Thanks  Butch

[enjenjo]

Does it have a Ford solenoid? If it does, jump the solenoid start terminal from the battery.  Any possibility it has to do with the new regulator? It could have run the battery down.

[butch27]

The battery is fully charged ??

[UGLY OLDS]

Sounds simple but often overlooked.... Move the shifter around ..Sounds almost like a neutral safety switch issue    :?:

Bob..

[Crosley.In.AZ]

yuuuup  A process of elemination on this.  As BOb  mentioned on the shifter neutral switch.  My 1962 Falcon , I have a B&M shifter.  I have adjusted the neutral switch 8 ways to sunday and it will not work everytime.I have to push the shift arm slightly to one side 1 outta 4 times

[58 Yeoman]

Geez, Tony...isn't that within the 1/2" tolerance allowed for a safety switch?

I've got the one on my 63 Ford adjusted to start both in park and neutral. Problem is, that I don't drive it enough to remember that it has TWO drive positions, with the normal position near L. I will push the lever up to go into reverse, and give it the gas. Doesn't go anywhere, as it's in neutral. All my DD's only have one D.

[butch27]

Tried the neu. switch  NO! jumped the solenoid -- Just  buzz front the solenoid.  Changing it..

[kb426]

One of the things I've done in the past is to take a pair of channel lock pliers and short from the input to the output on the solenoid. That eliminates that part completely. If the cables are good, you will find out if the starter is operational. Make sure it is in park or raise the rear wheels before trying this.

[wayne petty]

Tried the neu. switch  NO! jumped the solenoid -- Just  buzz front the solenoid.  Changing it..

check the voltage on the battery... using a volt meter..

12.65 volts is a full charge.

12.45 volts is a 3/4 charge

12.25 volts is a half charge..


buzzing is a bad connection or a discharged battery.

when you get a buzzing noise.. or clicking noise..  when the solenoid engages the load of the starter pulls the battery voltage below 9 volts and the solenoid shuts off.  when it shuts off.. the voltage comes back and the solenoid closes again.

if you don't have a hand held digital volt meter.  do you have a test light?

clip the test light to the stud on the battery side of the inner fender mounted starter relay..  touch the probe to the positive battery post.  get somebody to turn the key or use your pliers again to engage the starter solenoid..  the light should not come on.. it should NOT strobe.. if it does then the connection between the positive battery post and the positive stud on the solenoid is iffy..

do the same test with the test light clipped to the solenoid mounting bracket..  the probe touching the Negative battery post.. you may need to hook the clip on the battery negative and touch the bracket.  again while doing this activate the starter solenoid.  you should NOT get any light .. or any strobing of the test light.. if you do..

if you do.. with the test light clipped to the negative battery post/terminal.. touch the engine block with the probe.. activate the starter relay..  you should NOT get any test light indication if you do then check the negative cable to the engine block..

you will also want to do the clipped to the negative post/terminal.. touching a good ground point on the car body.. again.. activate the solenoid..

the negative battery has to be hooked to the engine block with a large cable..  4 gauge or larger..  usually on fords there is a flag cable part way down the negative cable bolted to the inner fender. this is the negative connection to the body.

there should also be a braided ground strap from the back of the engine to the body..  as the alternator puts out electrons on the negative side.  almost everything except the starter and alternator are grounded to the body.. this gives the electrons a shorter path..  almost all cars have this from the early 60s.. that i have noticed.  remember those annoying ground straps to chevy valve cover bolts in the 60s..  how many of those got thrown away..

one more thing.. the starter solenoid S terminal is Grounded thru the Mounting bracket on most ford style relays..  if your mounting bolts are not tight or the hole stripped.  you have several choices..  two 1/4-20x3/4 bolt  and 4 nuts..  stick the bolt thru from the tire side of the inner fender if you can.. put nut on it so you can snug it in the hole.. put the starter solenoid on the bolts on top of the first nuts and put the second nuts on to hold it down.. it makes the starter relay really easy to change and firms its mounting..  you can use 2 jam nuts ..   if i can't get bolts thru the inner fender from the back.. i take a piece of 18 gauge solid copper wire and strip an inch..  bend it in a V or U shape.. stick one leg of the copper wire thru the sheet metal hole.  now you can start the sheet metal screws that hold the relay to the inner fender.

this is the voltage drop test i post on other forums.  https://i.imgur.com/kviX0VQ.jpg  it can be performed using just a test light if the car won't start.. only test 1 should illuminate the test light while the engine is being or attempting to be cranked.

[butch27]

Dang !! fully charged battery  BUT a dead cell. Fixed--Thanks  Butch