Battery Dead in the Olds I just bought!

[BFS57]

Hello;
Just bought a 67 Olds Cutlass (in very decent condition) with a new paint, wheels, tires, and soft top! Yes, a convertible!!
been fixing lots of little problems but today, the battery was too low to crank her up! Charged it, but noticing the charge I put on it seems to be going down. So ./ . . New car the unknown? How can I tell if it's the battery NOT HOLDING a charge or if there is a drain on the system??
Upon closer inspection last nite, I discovered that the Junction stud with the horn relay was completely broken, making me suspect that that is the reason the horn didn't work! Lucky for me I found one and bought it! ($40.00) I have seen some for $225 or so  That in itself my be the problem Im having! didn't isolate the battery to see what happens
Had lots of minor problems like no tail lights (bad ground, No back up lights which was bulbs, then there was the ever cascading sun visor, and the passengers seat back lock was all loose and not working!
Don't like the dummy lights only, gotta find some gages to give me a more accurate picture of how it's running, which isn't the best but I drove it from Santa Rosa to Hayward (75 mi or so) and didn't have any problems!
Anyone have one of these? chime in on your experience! I like it so far, bought it because I'll never be wealthy enough to own a 1957 convert!!!!
Oh! did I mention it's got working ad on AC! (r-12)!!!

Bruce :

[kb426]

2 quick thoughts: remove the ground cable and see if it sparks when you touch it to the battery post. Unhook the ground over night and check voltage. If the battery is less than 12.2 volts, I would believe it's toast. I think that car will be great fun. Congrats on your new toy.

[BFS57]

Hello;
10-4! will do!
Im thinking that the guy I got it from even though he owns a shop, either didn't consider the minor repairs or didn't care!
Believe it or not! the thing has power drum brakes!I did the self adjust the other day and it seemed to help!
Interior is pretty good too! everything is black inside need to change the carpets to red to match the outside.
The guy told me the engine was a 350 but I really can't confirm that! It has a quadrajet carb had an old pal of mine that said that they are kind of finicky! I might change that to a Street Deamon off my 57 as I want to go with FiTech EFI on the Chevy!
Thanks for the observations!

Bruce

[BFS57]

Hello;
Done as you said, didn't see any "arcing" when I pulled the negative! Battery tender had it up to 12,89 V.
I'll go down to check it later tonight. If the battery is low then i know its time for another.
This car has to have a good battery as it needs it because of the convrtable top.
I did manage it get it started thats when I checked the alternator out put which was almost 14 volts!

Thanks

Bruce

[BFS57]

Hello;
Battery tender had it up to 12,89 V.

Hello;
went down and checked it this morning and the battery is at 12.60!
Next, I moved the outside of the ground and touched the battery negative terminal and saw that there was a tiny spark!!!!
Now what???
Im thinking that first I want to replace the terminal block thats broken with the horn relay on it, then keep on lookin!!

Bruce

[kb426]

The lower voltage reading is to be expected. If it stabilizes at 12.2 or above, that is a good sign. You might try pulling fuses 1 at a time and see if you see or hear anything happening that shouldn't.

[BFS57]

Hello;
Well, I pulled the terminal block, took it off and used some super glue to re erect it. Found that the power was not going to the horn relay attached. But I put my meter on the buzz setting and found a wire that when connected to ground made the meter buzz so now Im going in to the fuse panel next and see where this wire goes! Also thought I might put a switch on this wire as well.
Just received a 1967 olds Cutlass Assembly Manual. Next I have to get a three ring binder to put it in!!
Waiting for the terminal block with horn relay I just purchased to see if that makes a big difference.
When I get that binder I can then use the assembly manual to kinda trace the wire I have that seems to have continuity!

Bruce

[idrivejunk]

67 Cutlass convertible?    Classy choice. );b(  Enjoy!

[BFS57]

67 Cutlass convertible?    Classy choice. );b(  Enjoy![/quote

Hello;
Trying to post a photo but my I Mac isn't making it as fool proof as it should be.
Still waiting on my part should be here today!

Bruce

[416Ford]

Bruce or anyone else who needs to know.
The best way to test for a draw is to disconnect the neg battery cable and hook a test light up between the terminal and the cable.
If your light goes on, you have a draw. Don't be shocked (ha, I made a funny), most cars have some draw, either a memory on the radio or an interior light if the door is open or even a hood/trunk light.
If you have a draw, you now narrow down where it is by removing one fuse at a time and checking to see if the light is still on each time you remove a fuse.
Once the light goes out that will tell you what circuit has the draw.
After that it a matter of finding it in that circuit, may be easy...... May be a huge pain in the butt.

[UGLY OLDS]

Pretty smart feller there ^^^^^^^^^
My tester for that operation uses a "low air"(seat belt), buzzer in the same way ....
That way you don't need to climb out & look at the light ....   Lazy bugger that I am.....  

Bob....

[BFS57]

Pretty smart feller there ^^^^^^^^^
My tester for that operation uses a "low air"(seat belt), buzzer in the same way ....
That way you don't need to climb out & look at the light ....   Lazy bugger that I am.....  

Bob....

Well, Telling what wires do what is simple, the Olds is one of the GM cars that uses a terminal block next to the battery. All the associated wires connect to this "stud"  From the battery, even the horn relay is attached to this. I can test one at a time. I got the assembly manual now so I hope it explains what does what, but in this case some other person added an alternator leaving the voltage regulator still on the firewall but not connected! Connection is kind of hidden.  Also someone added a under dash AC system (works great r-12 freon) so when I look at the fuse area it's a "rats nest of wires!!! Probably something there to consider.
Thanks for the helping hand and guidance I'll be definately spending some time looking for this problem and I'll straighten out some of the confusion under the dash!!

Bruce