Scanner Went Bad..

[Arnold]

What does not go bad :evil:
My scanner has id F.L.,then R.L., then R.L again(defective bearing) then F.R., then F.R again (another bad bearing ) then F.R again.
Hey wait a minute..enough already of the F.R bearing wheel speed sensor. Time for ANOTHER scanner. NOW shows F.L. Hey sure WHY should THAT NEW bearing NOT be bad too   Ya ya..different bearing manufacturer(Yes ALL is good..alignment etc.)
MY scanner STILL shows F.R..another shows F.L. Tried my scanner about 500(maybe more ) times. Time to try yet ANOTHER scanner. Ding ding..we have a winner My scanner still shows F.R..the other 2 show F.L.
Time to change the F.L bearing again

End of that problem. Guess I will just buy another scanner

Gotta be/stay positive. At least I have not had to cut any axle shafts OR seen knuckles chewed up on this one

Wasn't that bad really..had to change the caliper too. I mean that caliper was ALREADY 1 yr and 3 months old :evil:

Could have been worse My neighbour buddy left his very low mileage 4x4 truck in his drive..wind driven whipped up moisture laden snow blew and packed under his truck. Stuck it He gets it out..onto the highway about a few hundred feet away..

  Bye bye wheel bearing,caliper,rotor..bye bye $600 for the caliper and rotor installed.

  I love road salt,brine that they started using years ago and beet juice that they started using a few years ago.

[kb426]

Ouch!

[wayne petty]

What does not go bad :evil:
My scanner has id F.L.,then R.L., then R.L again(defective bearing) then F.R., then F.R again (another bad bearing ) then F.R again.
Hey wait a minute..enough already of the F.R bearing wheel speed sensor. Time for ANOTHER scanner. NOW shows F.L. Hey sure WHY should THAT NEW bearing NOT be bad too   Ya ya..different bearing manufacturer(Yes ALL is good..alignment etc.)
MY scanner STILL shows F.R..another shows F.L. Tried my scanner about 500(maybe more ) times. Time to try yet ANOTHER scanner. Ding ding..we have a winner My scanner still shows F.R..the other 2 show F.L.
Time to change the F.L bearing again

End of that problem. Guess I will just buy another scanner )

just curious.. when looking at antilock brake wheel speed sensors.. does your scanner show just codes or does it show graphed data of the voltage output of the various sensors as you accelerate and slow down..

and do you run the voltage drop test i post all over the place.. http://imgur.com/a/wHJue  to verify that the main connections under the hood are working properly..  

antilocks are weird in a weird way..  with one side of the sensors being grounded and current limited voltage on the other wire that the voltage is monitored.  loose a ground connection at the Antilock controller.. weird things will happen. installing a break out harness on some of the easily access speed sensors and doing a voltage drop to the body test might show some interesting failures.. have to do this while spinning the tire/axle on the speed sensor being tested.

i really loved that when the sensor harnesses failed that it would throw spikes.. so it looked like the bad sensor wheel was accelerating.. so the computer isolated and released the other wheels.. causing a one wheel skid thru the stop sign.. the red signal .. the police car, truck, porsche, or intersection in front of you.

there were issues where rear ends were swapped and the incorrect number of poles on the tone wheels were installed.. causing countless speed error messages and percentages.  i miss not having access to a TECH 1 and a TECH 2 scan tool.. all i have for ABS now is my Actron CP9110 so i can read ford ABS star codes and a OTC monitor extended with a 98 ABS cartridge and cable set. .

[Arnold]

What does not go bad :evil:
My scanner has id F.L.,then R.L., then R.L again(defective bearing) then F.R., then F.R again (another bad bearing ) then F.R again.
Hey wait a minute..enough already of the F.R bearing wheel speed sensor. Time for ANOTHER scanner. NOW shows F.L. Hey sure WHY should THAT NEW bearing NOT be bad too   Ya ya..different bearing manufacturer(Yes ALL is good..alignment etc.)
MY scanner STILL shows F.R..another shows F.L. Tried my scanner about 500(maybe more ) times. Time to try yet ANOTHER scanner. Ding ding..we have a winner My scanner still shows F.R..the other 2 show F.L.
Time to change the F.L bearing again

End of that problem. Guess I will just buy another scanner )

just curious.. when looking at antilock brake wheel speed sensors.. does your scanner show just codes or does it show graphed data of the voltage output of the various sensors as you accelerate and slow down..

and do you run the voltage drop test i post all over the place.. http://imgur.com/a/wHJue  to verify that the main connections under the hood are working properly..  

antilocks are weird in a weird way..  with one side of the sensors being grounded and current limited voltage on the other wire that the voltage is monitored.  loose a ground connection at the Antilock controller.. weird things will happen. installing a break out harness on some of the easily access speed sensors and doing a voltage drop to the body test might show some interesting failures.. have to do this while spinning the tire/axle on the speed sensor being tested.

i really loved that when the sensor harnesses failed that it would throw spikes.. so it looked like the bad sensor wheel was accelerating.. so the computer isolated and released the other wheels.. causing a one wheel skid thru the stop sign.. the red signal .. the police car, truck, porsche, or intersection in front of you.

there were issues where rear ends were swapped and the incorrect number of poles on the tone wheels were installed.. causing countless speed error messages and percentages.  i miss not having access to a TECH 1 and a TECH 2 scan tool.. all i have for ABS now is my Actron CP9110 so i can read ford ABS star codes and a OTC monitor extended with a 98 ABS cartridge and cable set. .

  Thank You Wayne

  This scanner is an Innova 3100ABS..I bought it at our nationwide box store car place..Canadian Tire. I bought it on the condition it would id abs. It did..for years. Now this? It sees a FL wheel speed sensor  issue as a FR. No issues anywhere on the FR can be found with Canadian Tire service centre..with whatever scanner/computer they use? I was not actually present when they checked it out. They only charged me about $40 for a "partial scan"..and said re-assuringly that my scanner was wrong and the problem was a FL wheel speed sensor.
  I then took the problem including my scanner to a local garage I deal with too. They used a Snap On hand held scanner.
  They too said my scanner was wrong..and said it was a FL speed sensor.

   I had done your voltage drop test..plus whatever tests the two garages did also. All well there.

    I initially had thought it might be in the wiring..computer/abs computer because both the FL and the RR wheel areas were somewhat warm. SOoo..I first pulled the abs pump fuse..then the abs fuse. No change. I did some Googling and found these particular vehicles are known for abs module circuit board problems..the replacemenrs are pricey..about $500..and not that good. More Googling..bone yards have tons of these things around..$50. Not to worry..the FL and RR were only warm..the FL later got hot and seized up..just the 1 yr and 3 mo old calipers seized up

    I don't care about the abs but when the abs light comes on to indicate a problem..it shuts off the 4x4.
Both of the garages cannot access these 4x4 codes. Looks like only a GM dealer can access those codes. There is a tsb on them and stuff in an online manual. Dealer policy when the 4x4 codes come up in these things is to first drain the rear dif fluid..clean the filter for the 4x4 control valve.replace the fluid with $23 Litre fluid,drive the vehicle for 5 minutes in each direction in  as tight as possible circles Apparently this is the ONLY way that the clutch packs in the rear diff will release and allow the new fluid to clean the muck off the clutch plates. This service costs $500 They will also tell you what codes it shows.

    This scanner I have does not do live..or show voltage. Just the code and problem.

    Thanks Again

[wayne petty]

well.. hmm..

how about a year, make, model, engine, and the ABS codes.  or any codes you get.  

as for the change of fluid in the rear diff.. that was an issue with the all wheel drive toyota and pontiac vibe versions . where the clutch plates get gummed up. .

its something that can be done by car owners.. to save you a ton of labor..  usually a parking lot is used after the fluid change and low speed left circles and low speed right circles are used to force the fluid between the clutch discs.  high speeds sling it out.. and prevent the flushing action between the plates.. this is the same thing done with clutch type positraction units to get rid of the clicking noise around corners.. instead of needing to rebuild them.  the clutch plates are just dry and have some particles built up so they bind and release causing the release motion to be transmitted thru the driveshaft and transmission where owners hear it..

if you have a matrix or vibe.. i don't know if there is a different name in canada..


edit... sorry.. this went way off thread..


this is a video showing the replacement of the bearings on the viscous coupler..

i would really avoid using a hammer in some areas... there are neat videos on how to heat bearing assemblies wrapped in wet paper towels and microwaved.. yes.. there is a video on that.  i have not tried it but look at the section on those bearings.. would be so much better to heat and drop them into place.. even if you are only hitting on the inner race.. but the big issue is slipping the housing on the front bearing.. and pounding the seal in..  ouch..  drive the seal into the housing end first.. while its sitting on the bench.. then use a hot air gun or a propane torch to heat the front end of the housing to allow it to slip over the front bearing.

could i be wrong about these steps of assembly.. yep.. would i pound it in when i do it.. NOT A CHANCE.. but that is my personal choice..  so.. year, make, model and codes..   and if you have any left over connectors from the wheel bearings. so you can make break out harnesses to use a digital volt meter right at the wheels..

[Arnold]

06 Uplander. I can't remember any of the codes. I just knew that years ago when this first happened and our nationwide car fix place as well as another really great garage could not access the 4wd codes..and my 4wd truck was without 4wd that I could not do without I was  REAL HAPPY! when this scanner could at least tell me which codes and where the problem was. It pointed me to a bad wheel bearing speed sensor..changed the bearing..4wd disable light off..woo hoo..
 This dealer only access to codes thing is not new. And I really did not want to spend $500 for a GM dealer to tell me which codes it had
 I believe that the last time I dug into this there was STILL no way to acces those codes. That was probably a year ago.
I mean if our nationwide car fix place Canadian Tire cannot access them..and NONE of the scanner manufacturers could promise me that their scanner would pick them up=beat.
 Wheel bearings/replacement/bad new ones..is just a BIG YAWN up here. Pretty much ALL garages charge labour AGAIN to deal with bad new bearings. They have to..really..it is just so common.
 
  I get the muck(wear parts from clutch plates) sticking the plates together. Dealers/service centres seem to be all over the map on this. GM says change the fluid anywhere from about 20k-60K. My .02 is 50K and every now and again during service stick finger in fill hole and look at and smell fluid. This GM thing(maybe others?) of driving for 5 MINUTES in BOTH directions..ya I dunno about that. Been there done that. Flushing it. Last time I did that I looked pretty good and strained some of it..the fluid that came out looked like that fluid I just put in. So I kept it and will re-use it.

 I did get a pure 4wd disable situation..could not get any code..once. Did not want to spend the $500 at the GM dealer to tell me what the code was..SOoo..between myself and the garage I deal with now and again we decided to throw the $500 at the 4wd control valve in the dif. Fixed that

 Scanners do go bad..MINE I'll just buy another scanner.

  Do they still even sell that posi additive? I found units where the clutch set up was so stiff that that was just the way they were.
  I also had a 4x4 with no drive to the front shaft out of the transfer case. I did not know at the time that there were clutch drive transfer cases. Most of them are now. That unit the fluid was toast..there was enough muck in there that the plates were just slipping. Flushed that one..took a few thousand miles but the drive to the front shaft returned to normal.

  Sure..lots of Vibes,Matrixes up here..really good cars!

   I remember heating up the cases of my 1966 Matchless G15 CSR in my mothers oven to change the bearings
   That was like in 1971

   Thanks Lots

[Arnold]

06 Uplander. I can't remember any of the codes. I just knew that years ago when this first happened and our nationwide car fix place as well as another really great garage could not access the 4wd codes..and my 4wd truck was without 4wd that I could not do without I was  REAL HAPPY! when this scanner could at least tell me which codes and where the problem was. It pointed me to a bad wheel bearing speed sensor..changed the bearing..4wd disable light off..woo hoo..
 This dealer only access to codes thing is not new. And I really did not want to spend $500 for a GM dealer to tell me which codes it had
 I believe that the last time I dug into this there was STILL no way to acces those codes. That was probably a year ago.
I mean if our nationwide car fix place Canadian Tire cannot access them..and NONE of the scanner manufacturers could promise me that their scanner would pick them up=beat.
 Wheel bearings/replacement/bad new ones..is just a BIG YAWN up here. Pretty much ALL garages charge labour AGAIN to deal with bad new bearings. They have to..really..it is just so common.
 
  I get the muck(wear parts from clutch plates) sticking the plates together. Dealers/service centres seem to be all over the map on this. GM says change the fluid anywhere from about 20k-60K. My .02 is 50K and every now and again during service stick finger in fill hole and look at and smell fluid. This GM thing(maybe others?) of driving for 5 MINUTES in BOTH directions..ya I dunno about that. Been there done that. Flushing it. Last time I did that I looked pretty good and strained some of it..the fluid that came out looked like that fluid I just put in. So I kept it and will re-use it.

 I did get a pure 4wd disable situation..could not get any code..once. Did not want to spend the $500 at the GM dealer to tell me what the code was..SOoo..between myself and the garage I deal with now and again we decided to throw the $500 at the 4wd control valve in the dif. Fixed that

 Scanners do go bad..MINE I'll just buy another scanner.

  Do they still even sell that posi additive? I found units where the clutch set up was so stiff that that was just the way they were.
  I also had a 4x4 with no drive to the front shaft out of the transfer case. I did not know at the time that there were clutch drive transfer cases. Most of them are now. That unit the fluid was toast..there was enough muck in there that the plates were just slipping. Flushed that one..took a few thousand miles but the drive to the front shaft returned to normal.

  Sure..lots of Vibes,Matrixes up here..really good cars!

   I remember heating up the cases of my 1966 Matchless G15 CSR in my mothers oven to change the bearings
   That was like in 1971

   Thanks Lots

   I have also had 3..other 4wd disable situations. 1 was in this vehicle due to a new battery that was defective. The other 2 were in my Suburban, 1 was for another new bad battery and the other was for a loose main feed cable into the fuse panel under the hood.
   Did I keep the connectors on the wheel bearings..YA I THREW THEM onto the scrap pile
   The NEXT ones I will keep