wheel well and inside fender coating

[trackster]

What is everybody using and any recommendations?    Truck bed liner, rubberized coatings?  Can I sand or wire brush the surface or do I need to sand blast?   Any input is appreciated.

[Arnold]

Rust Check rubberized premium rocker cover "Stone Shield" for areas I may come on contact with.
Kleen Flo Rust Kleen waxy oily spray for areas that I am not going to touch.
Then I take it in and have it wanded

I just lightly scrape,hand wire brush then pressure wash.
And spray away.

Once a vehicle up here gets exposed to the new beet juice in our road salt brine..I am not sure how one gets that out so you can deal with it.

Cover it and smother it with some sort of oily mix and hope that deals with it.

  There are more areas on newer vehicles that cannot really be rust-proofed or fixed..
   I know someone who was quoted $1200 to rustproof her brand new car 3 years ago because they said they would have to remove some foam
    She did not do it and it has now just about rusted through there :evil:
   The dealer.manufacturer won't do anything yet as it is not perforation yet

[trackster]

I should have been more specific.   It's a 1939 Chevy sedan, will see no winter weather or salty roads, etc.

[UGLY OLDS]

As long as the fenders are big & your application will be hidden , possibly putting a strip or two of this under the fender in line with the tire "tracking" area  :?:

Once stuck on , it will NOT come off ..  It will maybe "soften the blow" when the stones do hit  :?:  

Just a thought .....

Bob....

http://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/weather-stripping/self-adhesive-window-flashing-tape-butyl-base/p-1444426702337-c-3624.htm?tid=-4585586007857696974

[Mikej]

I had bedliner sprayed under mine to keep the stone damage under control.

[idrivejunk]

What is everybody using and any recommendations?    Truck bed liner, rubberized coatings?  Can I sand or wire brush the surface or do I need to sand blast?   Any input is appreciated.

Here is my take, I have a sort of rock-paper-scissors theory.

You NEED two coatings, minimum. Bare metal has to be stuck to with epoxy primer, period. So start with clean metal or stable existing finish, well sanded and cleaned.

In my opinion the best thing to do is apply epoxy primer (since we're asking upside-down paint to stay put), followed by gravel guard, then body color or black, then undercoat if desired.

The epoxy makes it stick. The gravel guard makes stones bounce rather than chip. The topcoat paint provides waterproofing. Undercoat over that would be for appearance, extra protection, and sound deadening.

The important thing to keep in mind is that porous coatings such as primer and rubberized stuff don't keep moisture off the steel.

Take a hint from the car makers... their chip-resistant coatings are applied before paint. That approach works, like a cushion but the paint on top has to be tough. Gravel guard goes by many names. Rocker panel spray, body schutz, chip guard, etc. Comes in spray cans or quarts that use a cheap special gun.

[trackster]

Thanks to all.  Now I have a plan.