stuck distributor, 302

40cpe · March 08, 2016, 09:41:17 AM

I have a relative's '69 Ranchero w/302 that I'm trying to get up and running free-gratis after an engine fire and sitting up for 6 years. I have it running, but the distributor needs replacing and re-timing. My problem is that it is stuck solid. I have been soaking it in PB Blaster, carb cleaner, etc for two weeks while tapping it occasionally. For the last three days I had a strap tied around it and suspending most of the weight of the car's front from a hoist. I've applied heat from a 1500W heat gun for long periods at the base. I fear using a torch because of a grease fire, but am considering that as the next step. Has anyone had one stuck this badly? How do you suggest getting it out? Obviously, saving the distributor is not a concern. I just don't want to destroy it and leave part of it in the engine to require disassembly. Thanks for any suggestions.

GPster · March 08, 2016, 11:21:13 AM

You can classify this under "Dumb Suggestions" but you mentioned that you could get it running. Could you keep it running long enough for the block to get warm? When it gets warm and while it is running you could try turning the distributor like you where trying to set the timing. Sometimes thing that are stuck need to be broken loose in a different direction, like turned rather than pulled or maybe shocked into the block as you might tighten a bolt before loosening it. GPster

40cpe · March 08, 2016, 12:37:55 PM

Quote from: "GPster"You can classify this under "Dumb Suggestions" but you mentioned that you could get it running. Could you keep it running long enough for the block to get warm? When it gets warm and while it is running you could try turning the distributor like you where trying to set the timing. Sometimes thing that are stuck need to be broken loose in a different direction, like turned rather than pulled or maybe shocked into the block as you might tighten a bolt before loosening it. GPster

Not a dumb suggestion. I have had it warm by running and by heating with a heat gun. I've beat on the base as much as possible with limited access. I've tapped both ways at the vacuum can with a rubber hammer. I've used a chisel to open a gap between the hold-down flange and the block. I can see the block opening where the distributor shoulder sits. I've soaked with all kinds of concoctions. It still doesn't move.

kb426 · March 08, 2016, 12:49:57 PM

Did somebody glue it in because they were afraid of leaks? The only thought I have is to remove the intake manifold so you can see what's going on.

UGLY OLDS · March 08, 2016, 02:02:16 PM

Not a dumb suggestion. I have had it warm by running and by heating with a heat gun. I've beat on the base as much as possible with limited access. I've tapped both ways at the vacuum can with a rubber hammer. I've used a chisel to open a gap between the hold-down flange and the block.

QuoteI can see the block opening where the distributor shoulder sits. I've soaked with all kinds of concoctions. It still doesn't move.

Fill this area with brake or carb cleaner & TAP the distributor back down into place ...Use a screwdriver tip to raise the dist housing & spray/tap again....
After a few times you will see the dist housing moving higher from the block each time ...Also try "tapping" to rotate the housing ... The brake/carb cleaner will be cutting the varnish that is holding the housing in place ....The key to this procedure is "tapping"..., not KONKING" ...

If the engine is running & all you need is a timing re-set, why is the dizzy being removed :?: :?:

Bob...

40cpe · March 08, 2016, 02:36:04 PM

Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"Not a dumb suggestion. I have had it warm by running and by heating with a heat gun. I've beat on the base as much as possible with limited access. I've tapped both ways at the vacuum can with a rubber hammer. I've used a chisel to open a gap between the hold-down flange and the block.
QuoteI can see the block opening where the distributor shoulder sits. I've soaked with all kinds of concoctions. It still doesn't move.

Fill this area with brake or carb cleaner & TAP the distributor back down into place ...Use a screwdriver tip to raise the dist housing & spray/tap again....
After a few times you will see the dist housing moving higher from the block each time ...Also try "tapping" to rotate the housing ... The brake/carb cleaner will be cutting the varnish that is holding the housing in place ....The key to this procedure is "tapping"..., not KONKING" ...

If the engine is running & all you need is a timing re-set, why is the dizzy being removed :?: :?:

The dist. was in the engine fire. The advance weights are rusted/frozen like everything else under the hood. Also the timing is on TDC and needs adjusted. The dist. base won't move at ALL. I've been using carb spray along with the other lubricants, hoping it would dilute the lube and carry it futher down.
Bob...

idrivejunk · March 08, 2016, 07:29:18 PM

I had this scenario on a Pontiac 400. Virgin lacquer thinner and persistence were the ticket in my case. I am sort of inclined to say put a pipe wrench carefully to the dist body and try to twist it before pulling. Back and forth. If you can get it moving just a tiny bit, you should be in business.

edit:

PS, my 400 was also near a fire. Not an engine fire but some stuff on the rear of the car melted and warped. Maybe that is a thing... fire equals stuck distributor?

enjenjo · March 08, 2016, 08:25:52 PM

I've run into this before. The distributor is junk, so lets sacrifice it. From bitter experience, you can't pull on the distributor body, it just breaks off. So get rid of the advance weights and the cam assembly. Once you are down to the distributor shaft, weld a piece of at least 1/2" all thread to the distributor shaft, add a couple gussets to the joint if you can. Rig some type of bar over the distributor, and block it up with what ever you can get in there. 3 or 4 flat washer on the all thread on top of the bar, and tighten it up. Not so tight that you strip it. With the tension on the pull bolt, do your thing with solvents and so forth, leave it set at least a couple hours, and try to tighten the nut more. It may take a while but sooner or later it will come out.

40cpe · March 08, 2016, 08:28:13 PM

I finally got it out. In the past few days I've drilled holes in the accessible side down by the bore in the block and kept soaking in carb spray and PB Blaster. This afternoon I remembered I have an air hammer that I've never used. While the hoist pulled up on the dist. housing, I hit the base with the round pointed bit in the air hammer. After a few blasts, the dist. popped out. I was relieved because I thought I was going to have to break the housing and fish out the pieces. Thanks for all your suggestions.

40cpe · March 08, 2016, 09:02:19 PM

enjenjo, we were typing at the same time. Thanks for offering your technique. I'll file that for the next time. I do think that the air hammer directed in one direction of rotation and then the other is what finally broke it. Thanks again.