Need a light weight transmission

Started by Beck, December 31, 2014, 05:54:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

chimp koose

A bit off topic but yeah the rotaries have low torque. This race car first tried to run boost with a procharger but didn't have the torque to spin it up  to make any boost . Now it runs turbo and in the mid 9's

Beck

QuoteThe RAT-V is a Ford built transmission that was eventually sold to Tremec, where it was modified and built as the T150. The RAT-V is a side shift with a tin cover, and the T150 has a cast iron cover with a top shift and it weighs more.

LUK makes a clutch assembly that will work with a Chevy flywheel,and some of the Ford flywheels. Weighing a Ram 10" clutch and 5.0 flywheel I have here the whole thing weighs about 22 lbs. You could use an aluminum flywheel to reduce that weight.

For the bell housing, Lakewood makes a dual pattern bell housing scattershield that will fit both a Chevy and small block Ford block bolt pattern, and both a Muncie and Ford toploader trans.

I found a Lakewood scattershield (15060). It is out of production, but still in stock. Pricing is $550.

If I understand correctly the T150 adapter will work on the RAT. That search brought up an aluminum Advance Adapters bellhousing (712548) for $350.

Advance Adapters makes an adapter plate (712534) to work with factory GM bellhousings to mount the T176 which I believe has the same front dimensions

Novak makes a G150 adapter plate for $240 and McLeod makes an adapter plate (8607) for $220.

Wow a lot for my little mind to soak up. Then the clutch/pressure plate really confuses me.

Beck

Using a manual clutch bellhousing may be an issue for my application. The block has the starter on the drivers side. As silly as it sounds it is true. If a regular starter with a nose cone is used there needs to be a clearance hole cut. There is a high torque starter available that does not have a nose cone. I don't know if it will completely clear the bellhousing or if it will require some slight clearancing.
Cutting a hole for the starter next to or into a clutch fork window would make things pretty weak there.

enjenjo

You could TIG weld a section of tubing in that area.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Beck

Quote from: "enjenjo"You could TIG weld a section of tubing in that area.
My hole will be much smaller without a nose cone.

54stude

Could you use a marine out drive like a "velvet drive"?  Either in a 1:1 ratio forward and back, or the ratio you want?

http://www.velvetdrive.com/techinfo/V7172/V7172pg1.pdf

If you find a boat grave yard these could be cheap used, look for a rotten wood cruiser with a chevy v8 and unbolt all the stuff behind the motor.

Beck

Quote from: "54stude"Could you use a marine out drive like a "velvet drive"?  Either in a 1:1 ratio forward and back, or the ratio you want?

http://www.velvetdrive.com/techinfo/V7172/V7172pg1.pdf

If you find a boat grave yard these could be cheap used, look for a rotten wood cruiser with a chevy v8 and unbolt all the stuff behind the motor.

At 145 and 153 lb for just the transmission these are not any lighter than automotive transmissons. These need a large cast bell housing also. I expect the complete package would be in the 200 lb range.

I do like the idea. I don't know how strong the clutces are in them. The 2.50 ratio unit would be the right gearing.