dorman products 2011 Electrical terminal catalog

Started by wayne petty, August 12, 2014, 12:42:39 PM

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wayne petty

this is going to be a keeper if you work on electrical on cars..


http://www.dormanproducts.com/flipbook/2011ElectricalCatalog/files/ct2011electricalcatalog.pdf


just ran across this for a second time..  

thought i would stick it out here for everybody to trip over it..

bang ding ouch.


Bruce Dorsi

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If being smart means knowing what I am dumb at,  I must be a genius!

416Ford

Thanks Wayne. Do you have one for the door jam transfer connections to. :)
That way I wouldn't have to run wires from the cowl to the door.
And I could have really used that about two years ago when the parts counter guy could not help me.
Dave
You never have time to do it right the first time but you always have time to do it again.

wayne petty

Quote from: "416Ford"Thanks Wayne. Do you have one for the door jam transfer connections to. :)
That way I wouldn't have to run wires from the cowl to the door.
And I could have really used that about two years ago when the parts counter guy could not help me.
Dave

do you mean something like this..

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/product_pages/door_jamb_wire_eliminators/door_jamb_wire_eliminators_page.jsp

or these from painless..

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Door-Jamb-Switch/_/N-2693

its hard to avoid running wires to the door.    when i run speaker wires..  i usually run them with new black 2 or 3 wire extension cord bulk wire.. thru a grommet so it has some tension to hold it in place.. but i don't run it straight. i put some twist into it.. this allows it to bend and unbend without dragging the wire in and out of the door as it opens and closes.

making the hole in the door jam a different height than the hole in the door helps..    you can also.. depending on how you are going to run it.. create your hole.. just slightly larger than the cable diameter.. stick a bar thru it. and bend one lip inward and the other lip outward.  this allows you if you have planned it out properly to come the the door and jam and create a U shape in the cable between the door and jam.. leaving enough room for a cable clamp on the cable to hold it in position.   this is just what i do on my cars.. there are dozens of different ways.. and i have been spoken to by stereo guys about using SJO  for speakers.  i don't know what their issue is as my brother always ran custom twisted pair using teflon insulated wire for his speakers..  even going as far as making sure the polarity was correct and the cables were actually equal length..  but he was a perfectionist.. as he was chief engineer in several major recording studios for a lot of years.

416Ford

I have seen those in my searches. I keep looking for ones similar to the rear barn doors on a late 90's suburban. They were almost flush mounted. I did not want to run grommet style since the doors on a 46 Ford open so far. Ugly cable or possible binding a cable.
I have a flat two wire (Similar to an extension cord) glued to the top of my hinge for my front doors. Nothing on the back doors at this time.
You never have time to do it right the first time but you always have time to do it again.

phat rat

The Carolina Customs is what I have in the cpe. They've worked fine all this time
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.