GM steering column ignition switch

[vso737]

Hi,

NO, I don't have the year.  It is a HOTROD...........

I don't know the year of my new GM TILT steering column, I'm guessing mid 90s.

I'm having trouble figuring out the wiring for the ignition switch.

I'm using a Keep It Clean wiring harness and I don't think they put the wires in the plastic holders in the correct order.

I have a picture of the way I think it should be and NEED someone to confirm my wiring.

_______________________________

I'm NOT getting juice at the FUSE BOX for the TURN SIGNAL FLASHER and think that part of the problem is that the ignition switch is NOT wired properly.

my email: myks-30@roadrunner.com

For a picture until I get one posted.......................

Thank you in advance,
Mike

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[wayne petty]

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/tiltcolumnignitionswitch.jpg~original


this is the repair connectors for either of the above switches.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/corvette%20diagrams/5316ec97-3b35-4b2c-a776-7dae9e657260_zps6e468144.jpg~original



if you look at this image you will see that the contacts for the IGN1 is worn and burned away from decades of use..
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/ignitionswitchwornoutcontact.jpg~original

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/LS309ignitionswitchpinout.jpg~original




you can see in this image that there are two different ignition switches..

one for tilt columns and one for straight non tilt.. these are different because the push rod is operated in a different direction.


perhaps this will help..

usually B1 and B2 are powered by the same circuit.  but B3 comes off a different supply circuit than the others. B3 powers the accessory A ONLY..

G1 and G2 are creative..   they ACTUALLY and INDIVIDUALLY short to ground while the ignition switch is turned to the CRANKING position only.. why.. they are used on cars with oil pressure lights and /or ENGINE HOT lights..   they are wired mid circuit between the sending switch and the gauge..  they short to ground while cranking to turn on the OIL and the HOT lights for bulb check while cranking..  

[vso737]

Thanks Wayne,

My problem is getting JUICE to the TURN SIGNAL FLASHER in the FUSE PANEL.

My TURN SIGNALS do NOT work and it is the ONLY thing in the lighting that is NOT working.

UNLESS the vehicle has to be running for them to work.

I emailed you a lot of pictures and information.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??

As usual, you input is highly regarded.

GETTING CLOSE TO STARTING THIS MONSTER................

LG,
Mike

[enjenjo]

It does not have to be running, but the key must be on. I'm sure you checked the fuse.

[wayne petty]

Thanks Wayne,

My problem is getting JUICE to the TURN SIGNAL FLASHER in the FUSE PANEL.

My TURN SIGNALS do NOT work and it is the ONLY thing in the lighting that is NOT working.

UNLESS the vehicle has to be running for them to work.

I emailed you a lot of pictures and information.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??

As usual, you input is highly regarded.

GETTING CLOSE TO STARTING THIS MONSTER................

LG,
Mike

i sent you an 80 jeep wiring diagram.. its very similar to what you need to have on your car...  i think it will help..
print out the 4 pages of the diagram..   tape the back of the pages together..  use some highlighter markers in different colors.. dots and dashes. to follow the circuits..

got a picture of your fuse block front and back..  or what it was from.. i have an amazing assortment of wiring diagrams..


turn signal power to the flasher comes from the ACC position on the ignition switch...

hazard flasher power and brake light switch power are usually HOT all the time..  come from the same fuse..

which type of fuse block did you use..


what brand and model is the painless harness..

i think you have the PINK Wire plugged into the wrong connector..

you should have it plugged in to IGN1..  on the same end with the purple wire..  i did not see all the images you sent..

it will take me a while to go thru all those..

[vso737]

"what brand and model is the painless harness.. "

I have "Keep It Clean", 15 fuse, 24 circuit harness.

Two flashers, the HAZARD which is working perfectly.  The other is the TURN SIGNAL FLASHER which has NO power at the FUSE PANEL.

It may be due to the DISTRIBUTOR NOT being installed........I don't know if that would make a difference.

I'll send you some more pic's......................

I think the size terminal on the wire will give an indication of which IGN. to use.
One says COIL and the other IGNITION.

[wayne petty]

the wiring diagram PDF File..


i am looking at it now.. check the last page you will see that you have the wiring to the ignition switch in the wrong location..

pink and brown and orange are at least in the wrong location..


http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/8332/files/PRO15_89c3da08-57b9-4df7-b5f1-277fb29a7af0.pdf?2294

[wayne petty]

had to do some editing..

the PDF file has the right hand connector with BAT 3 and IGN 3 drawn upside down.. i corrected that below..



i am going to venture a wild guess that you need to depin the ignition switch cavities and swap the positions.. to match this chart..

the hazard flasher PIN X and brake lights get POWER all the time..  hazard flasher pin L goes to the brown wire into the turn signal harness..


on the TURN SIGNAL FLASHER.
PIN X on the turn signal flasher should have power KEY ON ONLY..

PIN L  goes to the PURPLE Wire at the turn signal switch..

these flashers will NOT WORK if they are wired backwards...


lets do some testing..

probe both red wires on the ignition switch.. do they both have power all the time?? YES or NO???

probe the wire at IGN1 pink wire..  should have power in RUN and CRANK ONLY

 PROBE the ACC  BROWN WIRE..  IGN3 ORANGE wire.. these should have power when the key is in the RUN and ACC position..


does the wiring to the hazard flasher have power to the same position X as the turn signal flasher does.. ..

the hazard flasher should have power ALL THE TIME..  this is usually shared by the brake light switch power fuse..

the turn signal flasher will ONLY have power in the RUN and accessory position of the ignition switch..

[vso737]

THANK YOU WAYNE!

You made it possible for me to figure this thing out!

Once again, I fell VICTIM to "ASSUME" and we all know what that means.  It makes an "* out of U and ME".  In this case, ME.
One would think that since the WIRING HARNESS furnished the exact connectors that fit my GM Ignition SW, that they would be wired in the proper location. They were NOT.

The second problem, my fault, is that I had the "NSS" wired wrong.

The third problem, my fault again, mainly for trying to wire it the way someone suggested, was the remote relay was wired incorrectly.

I now have everything working the way it is suppose to.  It was quite a learning experience.

Thank you AGAIN- I could have NOT DONE it without your expertise and your willingness  to share this knowledge.

LG,
Mike

[wayne petty]

i am glad you got it straightened out..

i had been working on this also..

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/ignition%20system/LS309_LS442_ignitionswitchGMcolors_zps2813907d.jpg

its a little to wide to neatly post it here..  so i will leave it as a link for everybody..

your car is going to be a Mean Green driving machine..  when you get it done..

[vso737]

Hi Wayne,

FYI-  The "KIC" tech. returned my call today.  He tells me that a lot of his customers have been telling him that the IGNITION SW cuts off power when cranking the starter.
Not all switches.............just some.

The solution is to jump the COIL IGNITION wire in the switch to the BATT terminal in the switch.

I'll find out soon enough within the next few weeks when I go to start it for the first time..................

THANKS AGAIN,
LG,
Mike

[wayne petty]

there are 5 positions of the GM steering column mounted ignition lock cylinder.. you can only FEEL 4 of them..


ACC is push the lock cylinder in 1/8 of an inch and rotate toward you. this is accessory .. you will get ACC and IGN3 power in that position..

LOCKED.. is where the KEY will come out of the ignition..

OFF is just slightly turned forward of LOCKED.. where the steering wheel will be free to turn. but NOT far enough to turn on the electrical devices..

RUN is where you will feel a stop/click.. the dashboard lights come on as does everything get powered up. .. power to IGN1 ACC ign3.

CRANKING is turning the key against the SPRING tension.  IGN and S are powered..   G1 and G2 are shorted to ground via the mounting bracket..



absolutely.. IF YOU HOOK UP THE SWITCH WRONG..

IGN 1    power in RUN AND CRANKING .

IGN 3   power in  RUN and ACC only..

ACC     power in RUN and ACC only..


G1   connects to ground in CRANKING

G2  connects to ground in CRANKING..

[vso737]

Thanks Wayne,

I saved this for future reference................

LG,
Mike