Throttle Position Sensor

[bucketmouth]

Gosh time just flys by doesn't it, it's taken me this long to sort it out.
I fitted the new TPS and adjusted the voltage. The holes are slightly bigger than the screws so that allowed me to turn the TPS enough to set the voltage.
At this moment as old as the motor is (1993) it all appears to be good and the first Fi V8 I've ever had.Feels good but a different sensation to drive, it's more like a late model car.
Well lucky for me I can drive the "hang on with the seat of your pants" bucket or the Hiboy for that more of a hotrod feel.
Anyhow thanks everyone for your input.

[kb426]

I want to add something to this that I have found out. There is no such thing as too many ground wires with efi. If you find some strange things happening, run ground wires from the major components to a common ground that runs to the battery. The 96 Mustang that I disassembled had about a dozen ground wires. I have since found out why.  

[wayne petty]

i can explain that... WIRE IS EXPENSIVE...  so they don't run LONG ground circuits.. they ground individual circuits to the closest best location..


i don't know if i  posted this above..

engine running.. headlights on..  Digital meter set to 20 volts DC.. hint i don't like auto ranging meters.. HF 37772 is a 20 buck digital meter to perform this..


1.  Negative battery post to the Positive battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. Negative battery post to the Engine block.. 0.04 volts DC MAX.

3. Negative battery post to the Body. 0.02 volts DC MAX.

4. Engine block to the Body.. 0.02 volts DC max..

5. Positive battery post to several of the fuses in the underhood fuse block. 0.04 volts DC MAX.

6. Positive battery post to the Alternator output STUD. 0.3 volts  this is 3/10th of a volt verses 4 or 2/100ths of a volt.. there is MORE current flowing in this circuit.. if working on a 60s or 70s mopar with an amp meter. 0.7 volts is expected because of the LONG circuit path..

please print this guys.. and paste it on the wall of the shop..  glue it to the surface of the clip board.. so you always know where its at..  

sorry to keep driving this home..  but i have been fixing cars and trucks with GROUND ISSUES and loose connections for over 30 years.. and this is the fastest way to PROVE its working as designed or NOT.. or you can start changing parts..

if the circular saw you are using slows down mid cut..  do you replace the saw.. or.. do you check to see that the extension cord is plugged in properly..   not falling out of the socket at the wall..

[tomslik]

if the circular saw you are using slows down mid cut..  do you replace the saw.. or.. do you check to see that the extension cord is plugged in properly..   not falling out of the socket at the wall..

I check and see if I cut the cord with the saw....

[GPster]

if the circular saw you are using slows down mid cut..  do you replace the saw.. or.. do you check to see that the extension cord is plugged in properly..   not falling out of the socket at the wall..

I check and see if I cut the cord with the saw....

I have hedge trimmers that work the same way. GPster

[Arnold]

i can explain that... WIRE IS EXPENSIVE...  so they don't run LONG ground circuits.. they ground individual circuits to the closest best location..


i don't know if i  posted this above..

engine running.. headlights on..  Digital meter set to 20 volts DC.. hint i don't like auto ranging meters.. HF 37772 is a 20 buck digital meter to perform this..


1.  Negative battery post to the Positive battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. Negative battery post to the Engine block.. 0.04 volts DC MAX.

3. Negative battery post to the Body. 0.02 volts DC MAX.

4. Engine block to the Body.. 0.02 volts DC max..

5. Positive battery post to several of the fuses in the underhood fuse block. 0.04 volts DC MAX.

6. Positive battery post to the Alternator output STUD. 0.3 volts  this is 3/10th of a volt verses 4 or 2/100ths of a volt.. there is MORE current flowing in this circuit.. if working on a 60s or 70s mopar with an amp meter. 0.7 volts is expected because of the LONG circuit path..

please print this guys.. and paste it on the wall of the shop..  glue it to the surface of the clip board.. so you always know where its at..  

sorry to keep driving this home..  but i have been fixing cars and trucks with GROUND ISSUES and loose connections for over 30 years.. and this is the fastest way to PROVE its working as designed or NOT.. or you can start changing parts..

if the circular saw you are using slows down mid cut..  do you replace the saw.. or.. do you check to see that the extension cord is plugged in properly..   not falling out of the socket at the wall..

   Sadly :cry: My circular saw slowed down mid cut..and then seemed to do it the odd time. Finally of course I realized that this was a powerful saw..and this was not going to load down like this. The cut time was just being increased..and the blade started slipping. Tried different maufactures blades for different thickness. No..it was a bushing..Couldn't get one. Actually thought of getting one custom machined(there are a few shops in the area).
  I have used..and often find myself doing a lot of cutting.
  I had this saw for..30 years.
    I have done too much shopping for one..

  Maybe fix my old one

[Arnold]

Gosh time just flys by doesn't it, it's taken me this long to sort it out.
I fitted the new TPS and adjusted the voltage. The holes are slightly bigger than the screws so that allowed me to turn the TPS enough to set the voltage.
At this moment as old as the motor is (1993) it all appears to be good and the first Fi V8 I've ever had.Feels good but a different sensation to drive, it's more like a late model car.
Well lucky for me I can drive the "hang on with the seat of your pants" bucket or the Hiboy for that more of a hotrod feel.
Anyhow thanks everyone for your input.

       
  Different feeling Fi V8. They just have a different feel to the way they produce power.Although a lot of that has to do with better later heads and cams.Better mixture contol etc I don't know whether a lot of that is better mixture smoothing things out through Fi..or that later engines use better knock sensors timing advance etc. I dunno..just a different feel.

[bucketmouth]

I should have said as mentioned earlier by some of you to check the earth connections and found that the braided earth strap that should go from the motor to the firewall actually went to chassis instead. So I added another earth strap from the chassis to the body and another earth to the ECU and that improved things even more.
I guess some where  between removing and refitting the body I lost a good earth connection as I never had the problem previously.
Now it's all solved I can say I learnt a bit about fuel injection and how to carry out basic diagnosis.
So the advice to check and add more earth straps is a good one and worth doing.

[jaybee]

start with reading almost every page on this site..

http://oldfuelinjection.packrad.net/page1.html

Great info! Do you have anything directed at GM LS-architecture systems?
If you do maybe it would be good to start another thread so as not to hijack this one.