Turn Signal Switch Problem

[Mac]

This is for my 1963 Chevy C-10 pickup.
About a year ago I installed a new TS switch and after a few months it developed this problem that when it self-cancelled from right signaling it would jump past neutral and activate the left singal.
At first it happened only on hot days but got progressively worse. Then the signals and brake light function began to cross circuit to the point where stepping on the brake activated the flasher and finally just turning on the ignition switch caused flashing brake lights.
Exploratory surgery found the electrical contacts in the switch were bent out of position. So I chalked it up to cheaping out with the $49 repro switch and ordered the $90 "OEM Quality" repro unit.
Now the new high dollar switch is doing the same thing and I'm thinking that maybe the switch unit is being distorted out of shape when it's screwed down in the column cup. It is much stiffer engaging the right signal than the left so the self-cancel out of right turn has more "snap" and these switches seem to have quite soft detents allowing the jump past to left signal.
This truck was a 3 spd column shift, that had been converted to floor shift when I bought it, so the switch housing (without a shifter hole)is of unknown origin and could be the culprit.
There are 2 tangs that stick up from the top of the mast into the housing and slot into the back of the switch. Thinking these may be distorting the switch I ground 3/16 or so off them but it made no change. I'm guessing these tang things are part of the column shift that allow the cup to rotate with the lever?
Sorry for the long winded description. These are the kind of goofy issues I deal with on a regular basis. Any advice is welcome. I don't want to ruin the new switch.

[enjenjo]

I would install it with just two screws, and change which screws you use to find out which one is distorting it. Even though they look the same, there are a ton of variations in GM switches. I just repaired a truck that I could not find the correct switch for by combining parts from two switches to make one that would work. You also might check that the lever is not binding where it comes through the cup.

[wayne petty]

seems you are NOT alone in having issues..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=443889


got more pictures...

what is causing it NOT to seat squarely..

or is the SUN coming thru the curve in the windshield and being magnified and melting the switch components..

do you keep a folding sun shade in the windshield.. to reflect out the hot sun..

or perhaps.. you might want to .... in looking at the images from the 67  72 site.. want to clean the housing out and place a layer of aluminum foil tape around the inside..   its designed for HOT duct work.. so it should stick...


by the way.. here is the shee mar turn signal switch and turn signal cam catalog..

http://www.shee-mar.com/PDF/2011%20catalog.pdf

[Mac]

Thanks for the quick response guys.
This new switch hasn't seen any hot weather and the issue it's having started right away after install, so I'm ruling out heat distortion.
It seems the 63 Chevy pickup's TS Switch is a one year only and I bought both from a repop supplier. I've heard there's only one manufacturer for these so which vendor wouldn't matter. NOS GM might make a difference if I could find it but the switch works OK before I mount it in the cup. I even went to the trouble of running a heat gun over it slightly after removing it to help it relax from distortion before a second attempt; no dice.
The stalk comes thru the hole dead center.
I'm very suspicious of these tang things. One of them stabs into a slot on the backside right in the area the electrical contacts live and I'm sure that's what ruined the first unit.
Maybe I'll have to post up a pic when I get a chance to pull it apart again. It's pretty much a daily driver. I was hoping someone had firsthand knowledge of these tang dealies.
I posted my dilema on ChevyTalk's 60-66 truck forum and got zero replies through the weekend.

[BFS57]

Hello;
You may not have an internal problem as much as a mfg. problem. If you see the words "china" or Mexico" on your recently iinstalled switches, look no further!
My suggestion would be to try and find a "new" old stock TS switch! I think you will have the best luck with that.
Other than that it may take some "engineering" to make one work properly!

[wayne petty]

just in case...


http://gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=21422


the first option on the above page. C10...  #898197

http://www.ebay.com/dsc/6000/i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=898197+GM&_dmpt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_rdc=1



hmm...  the second one is a 898560.. when i googled that.. this popped up

https://www.oldsobsolete.com/products-page/1963-gmc-chevy-truck-parts-for-sale/1963-chevrolet-pickup-and-truck-turn-signal-switch-nos-898560/



here is another book section..

http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=66233

here is a REALLY GREAT illistration of the 63 steering column...


http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=65626

[Mac]

The upshot:
I still don't know if I'm contending with mixed matched parts  but I had the switch out again and did some dremel clearancing and relieving on the back side of the switch in the areas that those tangy bits jab into it.

When I reinstalled it I used Enjenjo's trick with 2 out of 3 screws at a time. I found that when 1 of them was tightened down it caused the stiff right signal action. It also showed a gap under that screw's foot when the screw was removed so I used a small washer, fitted with a pencil magnet, as a shim.

The switch now has smooth action both directions and cancels like it should.

Thanks for everyone's help  );b(

[phat rat]

Finished installing a 50 gal auxilary tank in my dually

[Mac]

Finished installing a 50 gal auxilary tank in my dually

That's great.........huh?