61 chrysler 300 G

Started by tom36, September 11, 2013, 01:49:50 PM

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tom36

OK, here's my dilemma-  I have this 300G that was last on the road in 98.  Every year I start it and move it around to keep the juices flowing.  However the brakes now seem "funny" and I want to pull the drums and at the least hone the cylinders and put new pucks in.  I have  a Chrysler and imperial factory manual and supplement for 1961.  They list all the Chrysler models EXCEPT the 300. The manuals say the imperial and Chryslers have 1 1/8 bores in all the wheel cylinders.  Checking all the parts store, those that have listings , do not show the 300.  Rock Auto has wheel cylinders and rebuilding kits for Imperials but the 300 shows nothing.  Does anyone know for certain if the Imperial wheel cylinders are the same?  Worse case scenario what is the bore on the 300 wheel cylinders?  I would like to have things ready to go when I dive into this.  I really don't want to pull things apart and be stuck trying to put it back together.  Thanks, Tom...

river1

According to http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2013/06/01/hmn_buyers_guide1.html

BRAKES

Alhough equipment upgrades were made in other areas, the hydraulic drum-brake system was the same as found in the New Yorker series. This means that 12 x 2.50-inch drums were utilized at each corner.

Don't know the accuracy but it's a start

You might also consider http://www.chrysler300club.com/jhstuff/discbrake/mopar/disc.html

Good luck

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

enjenjo

From my 1973 Bendix catalog, it shows the 300G as using the same brake parts as a Newport of the same year.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

kb426

That's a cool car. Good luck with your repair!
TEAM SMART

wayne petty

i m taking that you have the puller to get the rear hubs off if the the drums have swedged wheel stud shoulders...


those are NEAT cars...


4 bucket seats as i recall...

fishbowl dash..

does your have cross rams...

why not start with a brake fluid flush....before you touch anything...

do you have brake pressure bleeder??? IF NOT.. ONE can be created with a NEW small garden sprayer.. and some fittings... some kind of block for the top of the master...

and not stroke the master cylinder fully...   you don't want to force the master cylinder piston seals thru the unused bore area in the master...

new master if you need the number


1961 : CHRYSLER : 300 : 6.8L 413 cubic inch V8 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Master Cylinder   CENTRIC Part # 13063002

tom36

Thanks for the reply's.  I'm going to order up some kits to rebuild the wheel cylinders, and go from there. I have the puller for the drums, and basically  want to have a lok see at what's going on in there.
Yes, it's the 413 cross ram engine , 4 bucket seats (front swivel out) and the fish bowel speedometer.  Will report back when I get into it.  Tom...

kb426

I've never been successful at rebuilding wheel cylinders that had age on them. You might consider ordering new or rebuilt cylinders and maybe bypass some grief. All the old cylinders had pits that caused the operation to be faulty. I'd like to see some pics of the car.
TEAM SMART

wayne petty

there are several places.. that brass or stainless steel sleeve OE wheel cylinders and master cylinders...

so you can put it back to OE look...

most of those are listed in hemmings..  if you need some more info..

one thing.. those lines are probably 3/16 inverted flair or 1/4" inverted flair..


pick up some inverted flair unions... used to connect two pieces of tubing together...  

pick up some inverted flair plugs..   at least one per union ..

this will make when you screw a plug into the inverted flair plug..

and inverted flair CAP... so you can seals the ends of the  open brake lines with the wheel cylinders removed...

Arnold

Having rebuilt enough wheel cylinders on old cars I would not even bother orderring "kit's"..or even the cylinders UNTIL I had it apart.
  Last time I did that..a few years ago..was the last time.
 Once apart..if NOT pitted..I just get the #'s stamped on the rubber cups and boots and contact Wagner.
 Pushing the pedal past the point where it has been for a long time..is just asking for trouble.I have seen lots of master cylinders start leaking after the piston has passed into unused territory. Sometimes the honing can hold lots of rust/crap..that is if the honing or lip doesn't wreck the cup first.
  I unscrew the line at the m/cyl and bleed the line UPWARDS from the bottom(at a junction point) with a small pump and fittings.
  Might just as well buy another m/cyl.
 My .02

tom36

Update---  I pulled the front wheels and as I expected the wheel cylinders were frozen.  So I said as long as i'm this far I might as well do the job right and get new parts.  Took Franks tip and went to Newport parts and found most everything.  Looking on the net someone had posted some NAPA #'s for the 300G,  but Napa had nothing; however the NAPA # and the Raybestos # on Rock Auto under Newport were the same.  Rock Auto had everything but the front left lower wheel cylinder which I found on ebay.  Shoes were 2 1/2 x 12 , they were listed as wagon on Rock Auto, and the only others they were 11"  so I ordered the 12x2 1/2 along with new hoses.    Will see what I get - hopefully it's the right stuff.  Tom...

junkyardjeff

I think you can upgrade the brakes to a Bendix style brakes using the complete brakes off a 64,years ago I was parting a 64 New Yorker and a friend grabbed all the brakes for his 57 Plymouth and I think he said they should bolt on.

tom36

Received my parts order and today I installed the front wheel cylinders, hoses and shoes.  Bled the front brakes and  then took the car off the lift as the power steering return hose  on my 2006 Buick Lucerne was leaking from a rust thru in the metal line, and i needed to fix that as that is my daily driver.  What a SOB of a job that was!  Any how, all fixed now and heading down to Massachusetts to see may daughter and grandaughter, so back on the Chrysler next week...

tom36

Finished  up the brake job and gave the 300 a quick buff to get the grime off.  Have a little paint and touch up to do and the a good polish and wax.  Tom...

kb426

TEAM SMART

Carnut

Yep, great looking car.