1983 Monte Carlo saga: GM CCC Quadrajet , Starter

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Thanks Wayne. I have the carb in many pieces.

Trying to get back on the car. I need it running.  Too many distractions

[wayne petty]

pm me an address...

i have a factory sealed E4ME... never been touched.. i think i still have it.. i will have to find it and see if its a 305 version or a 350 version


its used... but its factory sealed.. so if you take it apart and measure everything.. you should be able to reassemble it properly...  i will dig it out in the morning..

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I received a small box of tools from my buddy this morning. His carb stuff tools. I did see instruction page in there for CCC carbs

Will look thru it tonite.  Work is freaking disaster after another today.

Wayne :I will PM you

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I  sorted thru the tools my buddy sent down to me today.

Couple photos of the tools I think I need for this E4ME  carb

[58 Yeoman]

Geez Tony, I don't suppose that that carb you've got would've been the same as the one I sold on ebay last month?  It was off the '83 TA, and was a new reman that came with the car.  He had taken off the computer carb and installed an Edelbrock, and threw the original away.  Someone told him later that he should buy the original carb in case he wanted to sell the car later, he would have it.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I have the car together.. got it running this afternoon.

Idle quality is some what poor so far.  Have not figured that out fully yet.  Tweeked the idle adjustments, a little better.  The car idled dead nutz smooth before I worked on the carb..  OOPs

Checked dwell on the carb solenoid, it runs between 28.9 to 29.5 degrees ... specs call for 25 - 35  with target of 30 degrees.  Looks like I am close with initial settings during carb rebuild

Starter was noisy during cranking.  The engine bucked the starter once,  broke the aluminum  snout on the starter. Done for the day  or maybe a few days . LOL

[wayne petty]

starter shaft with the gear retracted to the outside of the teeth of the flywheel should be 0.125"  or 1/8th of an inch..

gives one the ability to set the starter adjustment on the engine stand..

please also verify the bolts are correct for the block and the block correct for the starter..

81 and earlier blocks are drilled for 3/8-16 threads

82 and up are drilled for 10x1.5 thread which is 0.018" larger..

there is a difference in how the starters center on the knurled sections...

see what a proper fit looks like..



wait.. sorry tony..  i know you know this..

back to the carb adjustments..

i am hoping that you are using 6 cylinder scale on the dwell meter... as it does not matter how many cylinders.. its the way the charts were designed when they were designing this system back in the late 70s..  first models arrived in 78 here in california. with feedback carbs..

bring up the engine speed.. see what happens at 2500 RPMs in PARK..  is the dwell reading still between 28 and 35..

there is no dipstick or did it not get in the picture.. can you go thru the top of the carb .. depress the metering rod pull down plate and get a measurement?? and let it up and measure it again.. 4/32 is the usual  range limit.. so the computer can keep the cycling going at 10 per second..

i saved this from a site a long time ago..

My caprice runs very rich after i rebuilt the carb. I have a haynes manual for the rochester but i dont get what its talking about.

Is there an adjustment I can do on my carb to lean out my mixture?

(its a 87 5.0 4bbl rochester, idk what version im sure its a feedback one)
silicon212
08-17-2006, 12:49 PM
My caprice runs very rich after i rebuilt the carb. I have a haynes manual for the rochester but i dont get what its talking about.

Is there an adjustment I can do on my carb to lean out my mixture?

(its a 87 5.0 4bbl rochester, idk what version im sure its a feedback one)

You need a dwellmeter. Once you get this, I will explain how this adjustment is performed. First, do you know where on the carb the adjustment for the M/C solenoid is?

You have a Rochester E4ME.
capriceowns
08-17-2006, 04:04 PM
I probably could buy a dwell off ebay if it isnt too much.

I know where the m/c is, theres a plunger on it, i think its adjusted there.
silicon212
08-17-2006, 04:57 PM
I probably could buy a dwell off ebay if it isnt too much.

I know where the m/c is, theres a plunger on it, i think its adjusted there.

There's a screw plug on the air horn over the adjustment screw. You will have to remove this screw plug to get at the adjustment screw, which is under this screw plug (in the black circle).

http://www.silicon212.org/qjetmcadj.jpg

You will need a special tool I believe - I don't think it's a regular screw (it's been two years since I've done this, and I've only done it once).

Anyways ...
capriceowns
08-17-2006, 08:27 PM
So is a dwell meter required for this?

I have the tool to adjust that screw, it like a square head.
silicon212
08-17-2006, 08:45 PM
So is a dwell meter required for this?

I have the tool to adjust that screw, it like a square head.

Yes, you need the dwell meter to set the dwell on the M/C solenoid. You can't do it by feel, or by ear. The dwell reading on the solenoid has to be between 25 and 35 degrees on the 6-cylinder scale. These are not very expensive and you should be able to get one at any auto parts store.

If you look on the computer wiring harness on the right side of the engine, between the valve cover and fender and near the A/C evap coil, you will find a blade connector in a green plastic quick-connect housing. This is where you attach the dwell meter. You can see this in the image below:

http://www.silicon212.org/9c1/images/msdetail.jpg

It's the green thing below the A/C accumulator.
capriceowns
08-17-2006, 09:25 PM
Ah, I see then. My connector is by my thermostat housing, but I got what you were saying.

Guess I have to get one. Got plenty of time, car currently isnt running :banghead:
capriceowns
08-19-2006, 11:16 AM
I was wondering, what does a dwell meter measure? Could I use a multimeter instead of a dwell?
silicon212
08-19-2006, 12:56 PM
I was wondering, what does a dwell meter measure? Could I use a multimeter instead of a dwell?

No, the dwell meter measures the amount of "on time" of the M/C solenoid, also called the dwell. If you put a voltmeter on it, you'd see the needle moving back and forth - not telling you anything aside from that the computer is pulsing the M/C solenoid. The dwell meter (as used for ignition point adjustment) measures the amount of time, in crankshaft degrees, that it's energized. It works a little differently for the M/C solenoid, but the principle is the same - it has to be "on" for a certain amount of time. Too long and the carb runs lean, too short and the carb runs rich. This of course can screw up the entire timing of the ECM - setting EGO sensor-related trouble codes and causing the SES light to light up, making the car run like crap and thirsty for $~3/gal. fuel.
Blue Bowtie
08-19-2006, 02:43 PM
I was wondering, what does a dwell meter measure? Could I use a multimeter instead of a dwell?

If your multimeter has a duty cycle scale (Like one of my Flukes does) you can use it. The desired setting is 50% duty cycle. On a dwell meter set on a 6-cylinder scale, that would be 30º.

Silicon covered it fairly well. You'll need a tool like an OTC 7667 adjuster set or equivalent.

MC SOLENOID ADJUSTMENT

Connect a dwell meter or oscilloscope probe to terminal 'B' on the enrichment solenoid connector;

Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Start the engine and reset the base idle if necessary. The dwell meter reading should vary while this is occurring, or the oscilloscope square wave frequency (pulse length) should vary;

Set the parking brake, block the drive wheels, and place the transmission in DRIVE for an automatic car, NEUTRAL for a manual car;

The dwell meter reading should fluctuate between 10º and 50º on the 6 cylinder scale, the oscilloscope should indicate a 15-85% duty cycle. Adjust the idle air bleed valve screw (12) in 1/8th turn increments to obtain a dwell reading between 25º-35º. The optimum setting is 30º (50% duty cycle), so get as close to this as possible. Adjust the screw only a little at a time and allow the system to react between adjustments;

If the desired reading is not attainable through this method, the idle mixture screws will have to be adjusted. This will require removal of the carburetor and cutting the throttle body away around the steel plugs. Then reinstall and adjust the idle mixture screws evenly , then adjusting the idle air bleed screw as described above to obtain the correct readings.



A "dwell" meter is basically a duty cycle meter that is graduated on degrees of distributor rotation for an engine. In Kettering (breaker point) ignition system terms, the duty cycle is the amount of time that the circuit is on (points closed) versus the amount of time the circuit is off (points open). The meter face is graduated in degrees of distributor rotation. A point dwell angle of 30º on a V-8 engine is basically a 66% duty cycle, or ON time versus OFF time. One cylinder fires every 45º of distributor rotation (90º of crank rotation), so if the points are closed for 30º of that time, they are open for 15º of that interval. 30º ÷ 45º = 2/3, or 66%.

A six cylinder engine is similar, but one cylinder fires every 60̊ of distributor rotation (120º of crank rotation). Typical specs for ignition point dwell on a six cylinder are 33º, and on a four cylinder engine 40º is common.

In terms of the mixture control solenoid on your carburetor, it is basically the same thing. The dwell meter is used to determine the amount of time the MC solenoid is ON versus OFF, or duty cycle. Since most automotive technicians have (or had) a dwell meter, the specification is presented in terms of dwell degrees. In reality, the measurement is the duty cycle percentage of the solenoid, but the common dwell meter is not graduated in those terms. Remember that 30º on the "V-8" setting on your dwell meter really means 66% duty cycle, and 45º would equal a 100% duty cycle.

Typical instructions for setting the solenoid are to set the meter on the six cylinder scale and adjust the "dwell" to an optimum of 30º, or in reality a 50% duty cycle. This means the solenoid is ON an equal amount of time that it is OFF. This is the optimum setting for fullest range of control by the MC solenoid.

If you don't have a dwell meter, but do have an oscilloscope or better quality DMM with a duty cycle scale, just set the MC solenoid for 50% or as closely as you can get it. The typical instructions indicate that any reading between 10º and 50º and varying is acceptable (15-85% duty cycle), but "acceptable" isn't good enough for most of us, or we wouldn't be here.

Once you have it running correctly in stock form, you can begin the power tweaking and tuning.
silicon212
08-19-2006, 03:11 PM
A "dwell" meter is basically a duty cycle meter that is graduated on degrees of distributor rotation for an engine.

Uh, yeah, that's what I MEANT to say. :eek:

[wayne petty]

another section i saved from years ago..

Getting Reacquainted with Feedback Carbs, Gary Goms, Underhood Service, October 2000

During the 1980s, while manufacturing for electronic fuel injection was still getting up to speed, auto manufacturers were faced with increasingly stringent federal exhaust gas emissions and fuel economy standards. To meet these standards, manufacturers modified several existing carburetor designs to operate within a closed-loop, electronic fuel control system. Although primitive by today's standards, many of these feedback systems are still in service due to the increasing average age of today's vehicle fleet.
Nevertheless, carbureted fuel systems have been dropped from many vocational curriculums to make room for electronic fuel injection. Consequently, many young driveability technicians may find themselves unfamiliar with the various failure patterns affecting carbureted fuel delivery systems.
To help clarify some of the servicing of feedback carburetor systems, the following will highlight many common service procedures needed to correct pattern failures in the most popular models of feedback carburetors. When servicing feedback carburetors, it's much easier to think of servicing these systems first as conventional carburetors and second as electronic fuel management systems. To do this, let's review the six basic circuits of a conventional carbureted system.
The Float Circuit 
Although the float circuit is self-explanatory in principle, remember that a carburetor draws fuel out of the float bowl by using air flowing through a venturi to create a vacuum at the fuel delivery nozzle. The venturi, which is the narrowest portion of the carburetor air inlet, is designed to produce maximum air speed with a minimum amount of airflow restriction. Obviously, the level of fuel in the float bowl affects the venturi's ability to draw fuel into the delivery nozzle. High fuel levels, therefore, drive the system rich while low fuel levels tend to drive the system lean. In addition, a correct float level must be maintained to supply the accelerator pump system on many models of carburetors including the Rochester Quadrajet design.
Aside from dirt holding the float valve open, the most common float failure pattern is fuel absorption in plastic floats or leakage in brass floats.
The Idle Circuit
The idle circuit consists of a large idle air bleed located above the venturi and an adjustable idle jet needle located below the throttle plate. The idle circuit is generally calibrated to deliver fuel during closed throttle operating conditions. Another circuit, known as the idle-transition or off-idle circuit, is located above the throttle plate. As the throttle opens, the transition circuit begins to meter fuel until the accelerator pump circuit is positively engaged.
The Accelerator Pump Circuit
The accelerator pump is a spring-loaded piston or diaphragm pump that is operated by the throttle shaft. The pump, which can usually be adjusted for various driving conditions, is designed to meter a specific volume of fuel for a specific duration of time at a specific throttle opening.

The Main Metering Circuit
The main metering circuit consists of a carburetor jet located near the bottom of the float bowl and a small air bleed located above the carburetor venturi. The pressure drop created by the venturi draws fuel through the carburetor jet. The fuel is mixed with air drawn through the air bleed in a chamber known as an emulsion tube. The air/fuel mixture then enters the air stream through the fuel delivery nozzle (or booster venturi) that feeds into the venturi. The fuel delivery jets and air bleeds in the carb are coordinated to reduce variations in air/fuel ratio that develop as airflow through the carb venturi increases.
The Power Circuit
Since the main jet alone isn't large enough to deliver enough fuel during full-throttle conditions, a power circuit is used to enrich the air/fuel ratio for maximum power. The power circuit usually consists of a vacuum-operated power valve or a tapered metering rod assembly that restricts fuel flow during high manifold vacuum operating conditions.
The Choke Circuit
Since cold fuel entering a cold engine doesn't vaporize very well, more fuel must be added to create a combustible air/fuel mixture ratio. Most carbs accomplish this by using a thermostatically operated choke valve to reduce airflow into the venturi and increase cranking vacuum. This increases fuel flow through the idle and main jet circuits, which further enriches the air/fuel mixture. Since the engine requires less fuel after start-up, a vacuum-operated choke break is used to open the choke valve a predetermined amount. The choke circuit also operates a cold fast-idle cam that increases idle speed during cold engine operation.
Feedback System Diagnostics
When diagnosing or adjusting feedback carbs, remember that most are programmed to go into closed loop only after coolant temperature exceeds 160° F operating temperature. Something as simple as low coolant level, a defective coolant temperature sensor (CTS), or a stuck thermostat may prevent the engine management computer from going into closed-loop operation. Coolant temperature can be accurately verified at the water outlet with a non-contact pyrometer.

Some systems may be comprised of a mechanical spark advance ignition system combined with an oxygen sensor, engine computer and mixture control device mounted on the carburetor. Others, like the early General Motors Computer Command Control (C3) system may combine a full array of electronic spark control ignition and speed-density style sensors similar to those found on modern fuel injected engines.
Some of these systems may operate in closed loop at idle while others may require a signal from the TP sensor or idle switch to indicate an off-idle condition before the system goes into closed-loop operation. A few, like early Ford or Chrysler products, may actually require a speed signal from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) before the system will go into closed loop operation.
Since most feedback carb systems used an unheated O2 sensor, the O2 sensor will cool during extended idle conditions and drive the system into open-loop operation. Feedback carb oxygen sensor activity may therefore be very sluggish during idle conditions. When testing O2 sensor operation, the engine may have to be operated at 2,500 rpm for a few minutes before the O2 sensor becomes active.
Regardless of the type of system, the oxygen sensor must be in good condition before the feedback system can be accurately diagnosed. External oil or mud accumulations may prevent the O2 sensor element from "breathing" fresh air. This may cause a sluggish or negative voltage signal. If the O2 sensor thimble or exhaust gas shield feels rough to the touch, the sensor element may be contaminated with oil, silicate or coolant ash. If the O2 sensor is coated with black soot, heating with a propane torch may clean the sensor element. High mileage sensors can fail at highway speeds and should be replaced as a preventive measure.
Information Requirements

While a collection of early manuals is worth its weight in gold, you'll probably find that much original information on feedback carburetors is sketchy and perhaps outright erroneous. Remember that many of these diagnostic procedures were designed before the digital storage oscilloscope (DSO) became a practical reality. Today, the common lab scope capabilities can create many diagnostic shortcuts in feedback carb analysis.
If you're rebuilding a feedback carb, carefully read the instructions included with the carb rebuild kit before disassembly. Some feedback carbs have metering systems that are initially adjusted at the factory on a carburetor flow bench. Once apart, these adjustments may be difficult to reset in the field. If you're disassembling a feedback carb, take some extra time to count and record the number of turns to "bottom out" an adjustable metering circuit.
Rochester E2SE, E2M & E4M
Rochester electronic carburetors are the most common and perhaps the most complicated of domestic feedback carburetors. The majority of Rochester feedback production includes an in-line or staged two-barrel (E2SE) and conventional-design two- (E2M) and four-barrel (E4M) versions.
When servicing the E2SE series, make sure the mixture control (m/c) solenoid o-ring seal is installed correctly into the float bowl. Unless you've serviced a number of these carbs, draw a simple schematic of the choke and fast idle linkage before disassembly.

Since the E2M and E4M versions share the same basic design, let's begin by noting that most of these carburetors are controlled by basic sensor inputs such as throttle position (TP), coolant temperature (CT), manifold absolute pressure (MAP) and exhaust gas oxygen (O2). The engine control module (ECM) controls air/fuel ratios by pulsing an m/c solenoid. The TP sensor is located in the float bowl casting and is operated by the accelerator pump linkage. The closed-throttle TP voltage is adjustable and normally ranges from about .40 to .80 volts.
Before removing these carbs for service, always sweep-test the TP sensor with a lab scope. Next, measure the m/c solenoid dwell using a scan tool data stream or by setting a common dwell meter to the six-cylinder scale and attaching the test lead to the green connector located near the front or to the left of the carburetor (see Photo 1). A high dwell reading (40-50°) indicates that the m/c solenoid is subtracting fuel while a low reading (20-30°) indicates fuel is being added.
Generally speaking, the dwell should operate between 30° or 40° at idle. At high altitudes, the carb should have extra dwell since it should be subtracting fuel. At idle, the m/c solenoid should click as it pulses the metering rods against the rich and lean stops. Remember that these systems use an ECM driver to activate the m/c solenoid, so a lab scope can be used to measure electrical activity from the ECM to the m/c solenoid.
The m/c solenoid travel is controlled by adjustable lean and rich stops. Special "D" wrench sockets, available from companies like Thexton and Kent-Moore, are required for adjustment. The fine-thread m/c solenoid retaining screw is threaded directly into the soft casting and is held in place by heavy spring pressure. To avoid stripping the m/c solenoid adjusting threads, hold down on the m/c solenoid to relieve spring pressure as the screw is removed or replaced.
If the carburetor exhibits high m/c dwell or intermittent rich conditions, check the secondary metering well plugs for fuel leakage. Aftermarket parts suppliers offer a rubber lozenge-shaped plug to seal leaks in these plugs. Suppliers may also offer replacement plugs for these carbs. I've found that thoroughly cleaning these plugs and sealing them with a two-part epoxy compound offers a reliable repair without the inherent danger of cracking the casting by trying to remove the well plugs. The epoxy should be allowed to cure at least 24 hours before the carb is placed in service.
Although a number of strategies may be used to adjust the metering rod lean stop, a set of adjusting blocks 1-5/16" long (see Photo 2) are made to fit over the jets. The solenoid rod is adjusted until it touches the blocks. Float bowl cover assembly can be aided by tying the bowl gasket and accelerator pump down with soft wire (see Photo 3). The rich stop is adjusted to allow 3/32" to 4/32" total metering rod travel by measuring through the access hole (see Photo 4). The idle dwell is the last major adjustment on these carbs. Adjusting the idle air bleed should bring the dwell into spec. In some cases, it's necessary to adjust the idle mixture screws to aid in trimming the idle air bleed adjustment.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Motorcraft 2150-A
To control air/fuel mixture, Ford equipped this carburetor (see Photo 5) with a stepper motor-controlled air bypass. The TP sensor failure rate is high because it is exposed to raw gasoline on the outboard end of the throttle shaft. This carb can easily be tested for power valve diaphragm leakage by removing the vacuum hose connecting the power valve chamber to the intake manifold vacuum port (see Photo 6). Stepper motor response can be tested by observing oxygen sensor activity. At 2,500 rpm hot, for example, the oxygen sensor should show switching activity. In many applications, O2 sensor activity may be sluggish, so the idle mixture may be adjusted for the best lean or emissions-compatible idle. Occasionally, an open-loop condition may result from a failed ECM power relay. If the ECM is operational, the Check Engine light should illuminate and the timing should be advanced from the base setting.
Motorcraft 7200 
Used in passenger cars, trucks, and in late '80s police cars, Ford's famous variable venturi carburetor was designed to more accurately meter fuel by maintaining a constant airspeed through its two venturis. To keep air speed constant, a spring-loaded vacuum diaphragm opens the venturis via a vacuum signal obtained from the throttle bores. The venturis also control tapered metering rods that increase fuel flow as the venturis open. The metering jets can be removed with a special wrench available from Thexton. Before removal, the number of turns required to bottom the jet in the casting must be counted and recorded.

A stepper motor operating a spring-loaded air bypass valve located in the throttle body controls the fuel mixture trim. In contrast to other carbs, the 7200 utilizes a cold enrichment rod (CER) to aid starting. A thermostatic valve located in the bottom of the float bowl also modulates cold enrichment. As may be suspected, the cold enrichment rod assembly is very vulnerable to sticking open due to dirt and fuel gumming. A Holley model 1-684 feedback carburetor is made to replace severely worn or damaged model 7200 Motorcraft carburetors.
The vacuum diaphragm in the early 7200 carbs fails quickly because gasoline will accumulate in the diaphragm chamber. A 3/32" hole should be drilled from the venturi side of the chamber through the carb base to evacuate liquid gasoline. If the diaphragm is operating correctly, the variable venturis should respond instantly to throttle opening. If not, the roller bearings in the venturi cover may need cleaning or the diaphragm may need replaced. As with the 2150 series, the 7200 is also vulnerable to rapid TP sensor degradation due to gasoline dripping from the throttle shafts.
Carter BBD Series 
These carbs are combined with a conventional mechanical distributor assembly on the 258 cubic-inch Jeep engines used in early Wranglers. It's very important to follow recommended base ignition timing procedures on these systems. Most require disconnecting the vacuum advance, and a vacuum switch assembly. The timing is typically set at specified engine speeds above 1,000 rpm.
Fuel mixture response is easy to diagnose since the stepper motor pintle can easily be observed from the top of the carburetor. These carbs are especially sensitive to metering rod adjustment and oxygen sensor condition, so make sure the metering rods are adjusted to specification and the O2 sensor is fresh. If the system is operating correctly, the stepper pintle should be very active and quickly respond to changes in throttle opening.
Performance Segment Keeps Carburetor Market Alive
San Antonio - The performance carburetor segment of the U.S. carburetor aftermarket is still going strong and offering growth opportunities despite the overall decline in the industry. It owes its growth to an enthusiast-customer base, which is passionate about its vehicles and willing to spend money to enhance vehicle performance and appearance.

According to new research from Frost & Sullivan, "U.S. Automotive Carburetor Aftermarket," this industry generated $211.1 million in revenues in 1999, but the market is expected to decline slowly. However, performance carburetor revenues are forecast to grow, posting a compound annual growth rate of 3% through 2006.
In addition to performance carburetors, the industry could also reap the benefits of a growing export market. Although the domestic carburetor segment has been on the decline, there is a growing aftermarket in the developing world, especially for remanufactured carburetors. Suppliers should look for opportunities in these markets to offset losses as a result of shrinking domestic demand.
Production costs and prices have become the basis for competition since consumers believe most brands are equal. The failure of manufacturers to distinguish their products, especially in the replacement market, has resulted in price discounts and tighter profit margins. To combat price erosion, manufacturers need to leverage brand name awareness at the consumer level. However, this may prove to be difficult since it is older vehicles requiring carburetors, and owners may not pay a premium price in view of the depreciated value of the automobile itself.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Wayne, dwell meter set correctly. That item was amoung stuff posted earlier

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Took carb back off engine.  I knew something was wrong or plugged or gasket goof up.

In photos posted one hole is open, one is plugged (red circle) .  Both are open now.

Engine idles well now

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Thanks to Wayne for the help...  thanks

[wayne petty]

once you get it all together and take it for a run...

what does the dwell do at a steady 2500 RPMs or 2200 rpms..

is it still between 25 and 40 degrees..

you and also do this test stationary...

i worry that the 305 jetting on the primary is too lean for a 350/355 engine.. at cruise RPMs... on the primaries..

is there any HESITATION coming off a stable idle..  flat spot??

i ask this as quadrajets come off the idle transition and onto the main circuits so early ...  the narrow range of fuel control the bouncing primary needled have... just don't usually have enough range for the extra 50 cubic inches.  thats like 1/6th more motor.. 305 to 355..

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Wayne:  I understand your thoughts.  I may have tweaked this carb when the 350 was installed. My memory is NOTHING like yours or Enjenjo.  I am envious of that little trait you guys have

Keep in mind this 350 engine was installed more than 15 yrs ago.  2 familys, one family with teenagers (!!), countless emission tests, about 90k miles on the engine now.  230 k on the systems and chassis.

Original car, with OE sheet metal.  No rust that I've seen.

Only time the car failed emission test was NOX as I recall.   EGR passages were clogged.  Could not for the life of me get them open enough to passs test.  Installed an EGR designed  Edelbrock intake on the engine.  Passed with flying colours as they say.

IF the car runs like chit , I will bend your ear some more. Appreciate ALL the efforts.  That is  what car people are about;  helping each other

[scottdaz]

Forgive me fellas for butting in but I'm on a desperate hunt for the Thexton 370 gauge kit like the pics Crosley posted last month.  

Stumbled across this thread in a search and you guys are speaking my language.

I've searched high and low to no avail.  I managed to get the 380 (double-d's, etc) but really need the gauges.  Any suggestions where I might find them?  

Trying to resurrect a real clean 83 Bonneville for my son.

Many thanks.

[wayne petty]

some carb kits come with a spacer that fits over a main jet to adjust the downward motion of the mixture control solenoid plunger.. what ever they call it..

careful measurement of the height of the air bleed thats screwed into the air horn.. will allow you to get it back and be really close..

the only adjustment that might get changed in a careful carb rebuild is the downward limit of the metering rod device and the air bleed..

a hint.. if you are really careful at cleaning the idle passages in the base plate.   you can usually get away without removing the idle mixture screw seals ... so thats 2 less things you have to not worry about adjusting..


i posted the borroughs special tool and the kent moore tool numbers..  i think.. some MAC , snap on , cornwell or other tool truck might have either the thexton or one of the other sets..


i guess i will have to place some calls.. over to thexton and to a carb parts manufacturer i know..