1965 Chevy C-10 short bed

[Learpilot]

My son has a '65 Chevy short bed truck (not a step side). He needs to replace the bed wood.
Have any of you guys had and dealings with a good supplier?
I think he wants to get new wood and stainless steel strips.
Thanks for all your help !!!
Rick

[enjenjo]

I have made the bed wood for several trucks. You can find bed wood dimensions for Chevy and GMC here  http://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm  Those are factory dimensions, I have found you can make the boards about 1/8" wider for a better fit. I use locally produced wood I buy direct from the mill. I use Epifanes varnish, a bit expensive but it does a nice job. I do all the cutting on a table saw. The mill planes the wood to 3/4" for me, and cuts one edge straight. Prepped the wood costs $150 or less.  The last one I did, all the boards came from one log, with matching grain.

[Beck]

I built my '62 stepside bed using the composite decking material. My truck was semi-rat, finished in black satin. The composite material worked well for me. If you have a high end truck that wouldn't be the answer. If you want to haul stuff and not woried about the perfect show piece it may work out. I had to change the stagger of the boards in mine. The composite material was not wide enough for some of the factory dimensions.

[wayne petty]

i had a thought a long time ago...

it involved a friends wooden bed bottom...

it involved a piece of plywood..

elevator bolts...
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR77jeW9TQa5wOm8Bfw4-JFWF_QrUbA80EobOIbHKjLI7RhO0iO


and quality flooring....

cut the plywood to be able to slip into place and drop straight on with the bolts firmly anchored thru the plywood.. so a transfer punch would need to be used to mark the locations of the holes ..

drill and slightly counter sink the areas above for the elevator bolts.


sticking the bolts thru with some epoxy to hold them in place.. while something like a socket is used to space the nut up.. so washers don't stick directly to this epoxy..    

then when all are done and cured... some vasoline on the bolt threads.. then a chunk of fuel hose.. each section ground to a /~~\ so the next step gets right up next to the bolt..  but the threads are not covered in it..

epoxy coat the bottom side and edges of the plywood to make it rock and chip and water proof..  perhaps a thin coat on the top side..

now.. one can install any of  several types of flooring on this complete panel..  so the top is seamless..  bolt less..  one could do herringbone.. one could do inlays in various colors of materials...

before installation.. one might want to seal the edges of the top surface to the plywood.. making it water proof from water or other liquids that might end up in the back of the truck.. think beer.. gasoline.. snow..


is there going to be an issue with thickness..

possibly.. i did not mention to use 3/4" exterior plywood..


probably would also NOT NEED to use anywhere near the amount of fasteners a strip floor would use..


this is just an idea..

my friend who i first mentioned this to.. just did exterior plywood and pirelli tiles..   think of raised polka dot tiles..   gave enough friction that the rolls of carpet did not slip out of the back of his truck.. but would still slide when he wanted them to.

but that was before all the PREFAB flooring styles that are available today..

[Mac]

http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/