Silly Primer Not Sticking Question.

[Arnold]

I have "this" primer that WILL NOT! stick to "this" paint.
I have used this primer for I just don't know?? how many different vehicles,surfaces..over..I dunno..10 years.
The primer is called "Rust Killer" made by Rust Check. This is the
very best of those so called paint over rust things.Comes in quarts,rattle. I tried it..then started to use it for touch ups and then top coating it of course..and it has always worked fine. I use it for everything now.This stuff paints over ANYTHING..metal..prepped..fiberglass..
resin..body filler..body filler that I make up..bare metal..rusted. Great adhesion! Takes ANY top coat that I have ever put on it.
 SOoo..I have this bad area..bubbly..some rust...grind it off..leaving
some metal..some paint..sand it..clean it,mask it. (Yes..I sanded INTO the paint)
Done this a million times..maybe more. On goes the primer. It hits the painted area and just BEADS off. WTF? I am well into the paint.
Just whatever??? is in this paint..this primer ain't sticking to it! No I have not tried another primer.
 This is my cop Burb..maybe they/or had it painted with something??
(plenty of people have commented on the lustre/shininess of this paint..ya like I care haha)((white paint))
I do not know what would penetrate the paint that far? or what could be in the paint that this primer will not stick to it. I swear it seems that silicone'is IN the paint..or has gotten in that far.

  Now I am curious..new one to me!! any ideas?
  Thanks!

[phat46]

Did you use a chemical stripper prior to sanding? I know that silicone can be sanded into the paint! Maybe you'll have to strip that area of apint completely now.  BTW would that Rust Killer be a god choice to try to stop (slow down) rust on the inside of door bottoms?

[Digger]

Perhaps the previous paint had been loaded with fisheye eliminator, that will sometimes cause the problem you are having.

[Mac]

If you're not having adhesion problems with the same batch of primer when applied to other surfaces then the problem must be the silly painted area not the primer.

[Arnold]

Did you use a chemical stripper prior to sanding? I know that silicone can be sanded into the paint! Maybe you'll have to strip that area of apint completely now.  BTW would that Rust Killer be a god choice to try to stop (slow down) rust on the inside of door bottoms?

 No..I did not use a chemical stripper prior.The reason is that I have used it in the past with this primer on a number of occassions..and have not used it. It did not seem to make any difference.
 Sanded into the paint..I just figured for the sheer # of times..and the wide variety of stuff I have used it on..I MUST have had this before? Maybe not.

   Maybe as mentioned Thanks! ..the paint was loaded with "Fisheye remover" I dunno..that I did not know.

   As for using it on inside of door bottoms..I am going to use it again for that..(as I have many times) on 2 of my vehicles in the next few weeks.
If the rust is not bad..I just lightly hand wirebrush..then pressure wash..dry for a day..prime. (basically NO prep lol) This primer DOES seal..and changes color a bit..and texture(smooth). Takes about 24 hrs to fully dry the first coat. It likes 2 coats. (lol no I don't sand between coats haha)I use the same drying time. Top coat it with whatever..and clear coat it.
  I like this stuff because it is a one step,cheap,available everywhere here in Canada..rattle and pints,quarts. Sticks to everything lol..EXCEPT what I am working on now haha.Requires basically no prep..does not require another coat during drying time..and does seal..does not really "need" to be top coated..or another coat.I think I have tried everything except Rust Bullet and Zero Rust. The vehicles I use stuff on are daily everyday winter SALT drivers. To be honest..most of the products I have tried are just junk. Rust "converters"..I think religious conversion works better on rust. Home Depot sells..or did..some Behr paint..primer..(aluminized or something) designed for painting rusty steel railings. Only quarts..this stuff could not be sprayed..or would have to be thinned out too much. I can't imagine spraying over that stuff. Worked great when brushed over.
  For really rusty stuff.where finish is not important.I do the usual..grind,then I spray tinted fiberglas resin with those throw away dollar store plant sprayers. .or brush it on.
I have found that by the time a vehicle needs to be rust repaired with fiberglas resin..here in the salt capital of the universe..Ontario..that there are hidden structural areas..that no rustproofing would have reached..and
it is just not worth fixing.

[Arnold]

If you're not having adhesion problems with the same batch of primer when applied to other surfaces then the problem must be the silly painted area not the primer.

  I literally went from another vehicle..no problems..to this vehicle..problems..then to another vehicle..no problems with the same container..in a short space of time..literally a few minutes as they were all masked ready to go.

[idrivejunk]

It does sound like the paint has fisheye eliminator in it. Could also be what used to be called "gloss additive", same effect.

[wayne petty]

i have something to put in here... that i got from my time working at mann brothers paints...

this is really twisted.. and requires you to completely disassemble your spray gun to clean it and replace at least the gasket in the cup if its a suction gun.  to eliminate any silicone in the gun.. . IDJ may more about this ...


when i worked there and people came in complaining that the nitrocellulose lacquer they were applying in those days was reacting to silicone on/in the surface...

add fisheye eliminator to the paint you are applying..  this stops the reaction of the paint pulling away from the contaminated undercoats..

this also means.. that you might end up needing to add fisheye eliminator to any of the upper coats you are going to apply.... i don't know....

i do know that you need to completely seal in plastic any other paint project in your shop... to stop silicone in any overspray from ruining any thing else in the shop...

you will also.. and i know you already do.. use external to the spray area filtered air supply for your breathing mask..

as you really may not want to breathe any silicone oils in from the overspray..

is this overkill... probably..   this is just stuff my father taught me.. and he sold paint here in hollywood to studios and manufacturers from 1933 to 1986..  he was the answer man ...