Does this happen because this AMC product is built with GM p

[GPster]

if you want to protect the wiring... use a FUSIBLE LINK...
the proper sizing on a fusible link is 4 gauges smaller than the circuit its protecting..
so if you have a 10 gauge wire.. its 5 or 6 inches of 14 gauge fusible link...
10 = 14
12 = 16
14 = 18
The wiring diagram I have shows a 14 gauge fusible link and the circuit is of 10 gauge wire so thays a cood piece of information that fits right in place
i would really point directly at the CHEEP (more than likely) amp meter opening up .. and causing all your issues..

I had assembled (put back together) a 4.3L V6 and had set it in the Jeepster just to see if it would run. I had a carb off a '79 350 on it and 8' of fuel line filled with gas to gravity feed it. I had converted the HEI to non-computor and was running it off a charged up battery and there was a belt just between the crank damper pulley and the water pump pulley> It had a '41 Ford radiator bungy corded to the fenders with the un-used radiator hose connections stopped up with pieces of hose and the appropriate size freeze plugs. My main concern was to see if the engine had any oil pressure when running but I didn't have an oil pressure gauge in stock. I went to Harbor Freight to by a cheap gauge and they had a 3 gauge set for $14.00. Maybe I should have thrown away what I didn't need instead of wait for a place to put it. GPster

[GPster]

What am I missing? On Waynes suggestion I've eliminated the ammeter wiring I put in this Jeep and will be going with a voltmeter and am installing a fusable link. On the wiring diagram for the Jeep and Wayne's sizing it calls for a 14 ga link and Dorman 85623 looked like a good choice. Dorman's card also stated that it would be the correct one for a circuit wired with 10 ga. wire. The one end has a terminal to to be put on the starter solenoid/relay terminal with the battery cable and the wire from the alternator and the other end has a stak-on terminal to be connected to the wire. If it's supposed to go to a 10 ga. wire why does it have a Blue shielded 14-16 termainal on it? I'm trying to do this according to accepted convention, what's accepted?. GPster

[wayne petty]

What am I missing? On Waynes suggestion I've eliminated the ammeter wiring I put in this Jeep and will be going with a voltmeter and am installing a fusable link. On the wiring diagram for the Jeep and Wayne's sizing it calls for a 14 ga link and Dorman 85623 looked like a good choice. Dorman's card also stated that it would be the correct one for a circuit wired with 10 ga. wire. The one end has a terminal to to be put on the starter solenoid/relay terminal with the battery cable and the wire from the alternator and the other end has a stak-on terminal to be connected to the wire. If it's supposed to go to a 10 ga. wire why does it have a Blue shielded 14-16 termainal on it? I'm trying to do this according to accepted convention, what's accepted?. GPster

yep.. good question..  i have a contact there..  i will relate this..  be sure that if you use a crimper that you use one that does leave a DENT in one side of the crimp barrel without deforming the rest of the curve.. look at the jaws of a channel lock 909..   if you happen to have an OSH hardware store nearby.. check their made in China green handled wire crimpers.. i have several pairs.. i love them..


i have not tried the 7 buck HF versions..
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html

[GPster]

I soldered a short piece of 14 ga. wire to my 10 ga. wire so that there will be a piece of the correct gauge wire (?) for the furnished stak-on wire coupling. I have always felt better about the wire connections staked with that type of tool. If bought a VACO terminal tool probably about 35 years ago  and I bought on that Stanley makes a few years ago but it only has one size stake on it for 14-22 size wire. The VACO has three stakes on it 10-12 14-16 18-22 and I like the tighter sizing. GPster