Can anyone help with a chevy distributor problem?

Started by 48ford, May 01, 2012, 07:37:05 PM

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48ford

Hi guys,
I have a problem with a stock G.M. distributor.
The engine is a 1976 400 chevy small block.
My car just stoped. so I check and no spark.
I replaced the module and it fires right up,and ran good.
but when you kick it down to idle it stumbles all over the place and wants to stall. Also you can not get the rpms back up.
Turn it off and restart it and it runs good ,untill you idle it down.
The distribtor was not moved,and all the plug wires are on the correct terminals.
Any ideas?
could it be the condenser thats in there/
Bad ground?
Any help at all,The car was running nice till this started.
thanks Russ

wayne petty

when you removed the module..   did you have any problems with the screws that hold the module down.. or the screw that holds the condenser down????/

the hold down screws for the module  GROUND the module..  completing the power transistor circuit to ground...

the hold down screw for the condenser is the ground for the coil in the cap.. if that gets left loose.. you will have problems..  look up a az duralast or wells U518 for the harness and condenser .. it shows for later models..



is there fresh thermal grease under the module... dielectric tune up grease. is the proper material..

do you have a timing light you can clip on to various spark plug wires to use to see if the ignition system is breaking up...

last when you unplugged the pick up coil  pair or wire from the end of the module.. can you verify the two connectors got pushed back in.. sometimes they become unlatched from the plastic retainer..
if the pick up coil wire connectors are or were coated in green grease.. you might need to replace the pick up coil..

lastly.. unhook the vacuum advance...    i have found when the vacuum advance moves.. it opens the broken wires on the pick up coil just enough to make the engine misfire ..


can you also monitor the 12 volt supply to the hei cap terminal...

use a test light shoved in from the top.. with the dust cover off the coil top... if its easy to remove.. its not always..

an 18 gauge wire with an inch stripped back and the first half layed into the bat connector and then the connector plugged back in can also be used to monitor the primary voltage...

Jokester

To the world you\'re just one person; but to one person, you might be the world.

tomslik

Quote from: "Jokester"Rotor.

or a pick up coil...
give the wire coming out of the pick up coil a tug and see if they're broke
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it\'s still on my list

BFS57

Hello;
Have you checked the Dizzy itself? I had the same sort of problem and found it to be a dizzy with a worn/sloppy shaft! Wouldn't hold timing.

Bruce

taxpyer

Had one do that once,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Had  one of the old cracked vacuum hoses break off. Ran good at higher throttle but died at idle,,,,,,,,,,,just a thought. :roll:
What\'s that noise?,,, Never mind,, I\'ll check it later

48ford

I got it fixed.
There is a condenser inside the distributor, it was bad.
But I could not get just the condenser,had to buy it and the wires that went from the condenser to the module& up to the cap.
But it's fixed again
Thanks for the replys
Russ