Radiator Overflow Recovery Tanks.

[48bill]

The US Radiator in the 48 F-1 kept cracking the large top tankon the radiator and after repairing at three shops the last guy, an old timer, told me the problem was the recovery system and that it created a flexing of the large top tank on the radiator hence the cracking on a bend.  He told me to let it flow out to it's level and eliminate the recovery tank.  problem solved.  I am very pleased with the US Radiator "desert cooler" radiator in the truck with a 425ci Caddy and air conditioning.  I do need to block the front of the radiator in the cold weather to get it up to temperature for heat.

[Carnut]

Ok, I went and installed a Trans-Dapt 3" by 10" recovery tank.





I think maybe my 67 Charger might be getting a bit jealous of that new aluminum crossflow radiator in the Chrysler.

[39deluxe]

That should do the trick. Are you going to run a shroud?

Tom

[wayne petty]

looks like it would take some stiff Z shaped brackets to mount the shroud..  or tall stand off nuts to make it easy to mount and remove..

-- ---|______radiator_____|--- --
-- --|_______shroud   _____|-- --


i wonder if anybody makes blank shrouds  in various sizes in cut to fit...

or what how much it would take to build a pattern for a vacuum forming company to pull a few ..

hmm.. having a modular block set.. for shroud vacuum forming.. hmm.. could be the start of a whole new biz...

with a few more shapes..  one could do custom sized door panels also..

[Carnut]

Well, I don't think I'll do a shroud, the old car didn't come with one from the factory and it's never had a cooling problem here in warm Kansas.

Heh, heh, the only reason for the new aluminum radiator is because I've gone though a damaged factory radiator, a recored radiator and a couple of leak repairs on the recore job. Kinda got tired of pulling the radiator and decided on a new radiator.

So in thinking of a new Radiator I thought an investment in a new tech aluminum crossflow would be better than finding a good OEM type.

Also I think the new radiator is probably way overkill for the old engine that's never got near hot when there was water in any of the radiators.

Course there is the story of coming back from Ark City Ks. run when I went over a RR crossing just south of Udall and the original motor mounts gave way and the engine and fan went into the radiator, that was when the radiator got recored.

Then there was the time out in west Wichita when a freeze plug blew out.
I pulled into a nearby station and grabbed a water bucket and put some cold water down the steaming radiator neck and noticed the water was pouring out the side of the block. Seems I had forgot to put in water after some other engine repairs and pouring in the cold water immediately became steam and forced out a freeze plug explosively. Old car got a ride home on a roll back. Replaced the freeze plug, and I have been scared ever since. Seems these early Mopar's used a freeze plug that was just a dished washer that you hammered in to deform it so it would press out into the cavity. I really don't trust that. Have used some copper screw in the middle type and cinched them into place, hope they hold.

Anyhow it's a wonder that old engine is still chugging along with real oil pressure and no smoke out the tailpipe.

Oh! Did someone mention door panels?



Seems I managed to con my nephew Troy Pate into doing the door panels on the Chrysler.

I just glued in some cool it mat against the inside of the outer door skin and then put the dynamat on the inner panel. Hope it's worth it. Awhile back I had used some heavier lead lined stuff on the floorboard and back of the firewall for sound deadening but haven't been able to find it anymore so I used the dynamat.

Here's the reason I talked Troy Pate into doing my door panels:



Here's Troy in action on his 40 Pickup.

[Old Coyote]

We installed a coolant recovery tank and system in the Thames ..... wouldn't be without it  ...... the tank is mounted on the right side of the firewall and the line runs inside the right frame rail