Problems with my neighbor's work van.

[GPster]

This is a '91 (late manufactured) E250 Ford van with a 351 cleveland engine. It's fuel injected and it's not getting any gas from either tank. Tried replacing the gas pump relay but the new one acts the same as the old one. There doesn't appear to be any power to the relay. This van has two tanks but the fuel gauge reads for both tanks so that that switch is probably OK. What gives power to the relay? One time it started but only ran long enough to make it halfway out the driveway but then it stopped like it only had gas from the starting circuit. That one time and that was all. It would maybe help if we could find some wiring diagrams. Because it was a late '91 manufacture it seems different than the earlier ones. seems to be a fuel delivery problem. GPster

[rooster]

This is a '91 (late manufactured) E250 Ford van with a 351 cleveland engine. It's fuel injected and it's not getting any gas from either tank. Tried replacing the gas pump relay but the new one acts the same as the old one. There doesn't appear to be any power to the relay. This van has two tanks but the fuel gauge reads for both tanks so that that switch is probably OK. What gives power to the relay? One time it started but only ran long enough to make it halfway out the driveway but then it stopped like it only had gas from the starting circuit. That one time and that was all. It would maybe help if we could find some wiring diagrams. Because it was a late '91 manufacture it seems different than the earlier ones. seems to be a fuel delivery problem. GPster

jOE, You should hear the pump run for about a second every time your turn the key to run position. On my 88 Ford pickup there is a wire coming right off the + battery post, you might check that, I had a problem there!

I spliced in Bosh relays in place of the Ford ones.

[rooster]

good stuff here

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12737

[wayne petty]

see if this helps...

i am taking that its a 5.8 W not a cleveland..  if it looks like a cleveland..



http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/21/dd/2e/large/0996b43f8021dd2e.gif


if you look for the light blue and orange stripe wire to the EEC 4 test connector..

you can ground that... and with the key on.. and the fuel pump relay should be energized...    
~~~~~~~~~~~

there is a dark green and yellow wire to the same EEC4 test point to monitor the fuel pump relay output voltage..




there does seem to be a dual tank switch between the relay and the tanks..



can you first.. do the voltage drop test...


take a digital volt meter...

set it to 20 volts DC scale...

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected.

if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...

this test takes about 2 minutes...

post your results by test number..

if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...

you have a bad ground between those parts..



why do this test....   bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks...

   why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...  if you loose a ground.. or it becomes intermittent..  you won't have any power for that circuit...


i would also like you to find the fusible links.. where they are connected to the positive power...  count the wires...  remove them.. wire brush both sides of the ring terminals...  wire brush the stud and the nut back side.. put it back together...


you might also want to check the ECM ground connections on the engine...

why???   the ecm is usually only grounded to the ENGINE..  so it those grounds are bad.. the ecm cannot pull the relay to ground to operate it..

if you run into deep trouble.. i think you might already have my phone number..  check PM if you don't already..

[wayne petty]

oh... sorry.. i posted the F series wiring diagram... print that one anyway...

as it shows the wiring for the fuel system better..

here is the engine control diagram for the 90/91 E series with a 5.8..

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/2a/3e/large/0900c15280072a3e.gif


the fuel pump relay wiring diagram is actually on the right side of this page..

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/2a/4a/large/0900c15280072a4a.gif

print all three pages so you can follow along..  

as these last two are well covered by the first one as it shows the actual interconnects between the ecm and the fuel pump relay and the test connection.. .



more images that might help...

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/27/f8/large/0900c152800727f8.gif


pin six is what you ground to turn on the fuel pump relay...

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/lostrider/2010-01-17_001148_1.gif

it does not show which is the fuel pump voltage monitor wire ..

still looking..