Painting sequence...

[My52Chebby]

I have some questions about paint sequencing...

First question:

Right now, we have the firewall and underfloor painted final base coat/clear coat.



I know... It sits way too high right now but that will be adjusted...



In the near future, I will be working at fitting the doors (striving for 1/8" gap all around) removing/adding metal, adjusting hinges, installing bear claw power door locks, electrical wire looms in door jams, etc.

What I am thinking of doing (considering the interior will be shot a different color, except the dash, from the exterior) is to final paint the door jambs, window surround, etc. When we come to final cab paint, we would install the rubber (even if I have to replace the rubber afterwards) and glass (or glass substitute, hardboard), lift the rubber edges with a length of cord under the rubber. Mask the rubber and paint the cab final base coat/clear coat. I would even temporarilly install some rubber door seals...

Am I right in thinking that not much over-spray would get onto the jambs with the doors closed? I am using an HVLP gravity fed gun.

Second question:

The color I have chosen is a solid blue. No flakes, pearls or anything in the base coat or clear.

Can we paint the box, fenders, hood, running boards as separate units? Someone even told us that the parts have to be painted as they will sit on the truck. That is. don't lay the fenders on a table to spray them but mount them vertically as they would be on the truck!?!

Third question :

Do you have any other suggestions concerning paint sequencing?

Thank you all.

My52Chebby

[enjenjo]

Several points.

1 it's near impossible to paint the sides of the box with the rear fenders installed.

2 it's near impossible to install the door rubber with the doors installed on the cab.

3 most door wire looms won't work on that cab because of the motion of the door as it opens. I ended up milling a slot in the hinge to run the wires through, with an aluminum cover on them. Similar to this  

4 With a solid color, I would paint all the parts at the same time, but off the truck, and assemble after painting and buffing. It is near impossible to backmask for overspray with it assembled.

[wayne petty]

milling a hinge is a great idea....

one thing...   i personally would search out some of this wire...

there are different gauges available in some stores... as this link only seems to supply 18 gauge..  i have seen as thick as 12 gauge... for starter push buttons..


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/test-lead-wire/electrical-power-testing/test-instruments/ecatalog/N-ba5


this stuff will flex for years.... and years....

i use this to repair hidden wires in wagon rear hatches...   and on stop light switch pigtails usually on fords.. as the pedals switch with the switch and the wires fatigue... causing all kinds of problems other than no brake lights...  like it won't come out of park..


i would also look at using european style terminal blocks to connect to conventional wiring..   not saying to use them.. just to look at them..

[Uncle Bob]

If you want to keep overspray out of the jambs with the door hung 3M makes a product for that.......#6297 aperture tape (aka, dart tape).  It's a round foam strip with adhesive on it.  Leaves a soft edge rather than the hard edge you get from regular masking tape.  It works in a number of back taping situations.

[kb426]

I would leave off the rubber and paint individual parts. Make sure you get enough base and mix it all together so there's no chance for mismatch. The real chore is assembly and not scratching anything. You can spray panels any direction because of the solid color. Lay them out so you can see what you're doing. I think you're going to have a great truck when you're finished.