Help find flex hose

WZ JUNK · April 21, 2011, 10:19:55 AM

I am doing some work on the air intake for the Flat Cad, a new car to run at Bonneville. I am looking for 7 or 8 inch flexible hose like a lot of the newer cars use on the air intake. This hose will connect the air intake that I am making from the snout in the grille filler panel I made, to the fiberglass piece I am making for the Enderle injector. I do not know where to begin a search for the hose.

John

enjenjo · April 21, 2011, 10:57:28 AM

Look here http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/202/=bz1at2 they have 35 pages of duct hose, several look like they might work.

Harry · April 21, 2011, 12:08:41 PM

There is a large flex hose that is used as a drain "tile" around house foundations.
Maybe your local builder supply has it.

WZ JUNK · April 21, 2011, 12:50:53 PM

I roughed out a foam plug this morning to test fit it to the car. This is the shape that I am working with.

Thanks for the help.

I really want to find some of the black accordion hose.

John

Beck · April 21, 2011, 02:09:09 PM

John,
Nice looking plug. The problem with laying glass over the foam is the rough surface created when you remove the foam. Is it your plan to lay the glass dirct on the foam or are you going to "finish" the foam, make a mold and then the part? If you are laying up the part direct on the foam you can slick it up a bit inside by gluing mylar film on the non-compound curved parts.

I have never seen the hose you are looking for as big as you want it. Your other choice is to make the tube from fiberglass also. That is a lot more work though. How much pressure should the tube see at speed? I would think a slick interior tube would flow air better than the accordion hose.

I saw your post some weeks ago stating you were doing some work on this car and was wondering what you were doing.

WZ JUNK · April 21, 2011, 02:39:05 PM

Quote from: "Beck"John,
Nice looking plug. The problem with laying glass over the foam is the rough surface created when you remove the foam. Is it your plan to lay the glass dirct on the foam or are you going to "finish" the foam, make a mold and then the part? If you are laying up the part direct on the foam you can slick it up a bit inside by gluing mylar film on the non-compound curved parts.

I have never seen the hose you are looking for as big as you want it. Your other choice is to make the tube from fiberglass also. That is a lot more work though. How much pressure should the tube see at speed? I would think a slick interior tube would flow air better than the accordion hose.

I saw your post some weeks ago stating you were doing some work on this car and was wondering what you were doing.

The real plug will be much smoother than this one. I am thinking that I might vacuum bag the plug before I lay up the glass. I have a friend that may make the part for me. He is in the business of making artificial limbs and he has a machine that will vacuum the glass down on to the plug and hold it there while it is curing. He can even make the part out of carbon fiber.

If you go to http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,8271.0.html there is a build diary for this car. A very interesting project.

John

wayne petty · April 21, 2011, 02:40:55 PM

from the side....

i was looking through the hoses...

the second item on this page...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/213/=bz3xpt

High-Flow Duct for Dust

Ideal for dust, grinding dust, wood sawdust, and lint; also for air and smoke
Flexible
Temperature Range: -60° to +275° F
Internal Abrasion Resistance: Very good
Color: Black with gray support or white with white support
Clamps: Use worm-drive and quick-release clamps
Instead of an internal support, this TPR (thermoplastic rubber) hose has an external polypropylene support that provides a smooth interior for up to 40% better air flow. The support also acts as a wear strip. Material thickness is 0.026" for 1" to 4" ID hose; 0.045" for 6" to 10" ID hose. Hose compresses 33% of its length. Can be used indoors and out.

Hose comes in your choice of colors: black, which has a gray support; and all white, which is made from a TPR material that's FDA CFR21 177.2600 compliant.

To Order: Please order hose in 5-ft. increments up to the full coil length of 50 ft. and specify color.

but check the chart thats on the page....

in 8 inch size...

Max. psi @ 72° F 14 PSI

Vacuum @ 72° F 6 inches of mercury...

i would really want to think about the amount of suction the motor could make... and if it could build enough vacuum between the injector stacks box and the fiberglass duct inlet you have created... and crush the hose cutting off the airflow smothering the motor..

i am taking that the engine is finished and already in the car.. and not sitting on a dyno someplace where the air duct could be mounted and flow tested... with a few vacuum gauges... to verify that its not restricting the air flow into the motor... the amount of pressure build up in front of the ductwork opening needs to be calculated also... perhaps... adding a hose barb... and a fuel pump pressure testers from harbor freight that are compound gauges so you get from 15PSi to 30 inches of vacuum in a gauge thats large enough to read...

if a water pump can create enough suction to flatten a lower radiator hose... on a street car... just think what a race motor could do to fiber hose...

any chance of getting some foam cut out in a tube shape with some keyholes cut to add some of the flexible watertight conduit that might stay bend and keep the bend in the foam.. while you bend and form it to fit the car... then as you seem to have the ability to do it.. fiberglass the form.. .. then you have a crush proof piece and only need short sections of flex hose... think of a jet fighter intake duct... makes or breaks how the engine performs at speed...

this is just crud that i think about when i see somebody doing something...
you know what you are doing... i will now be quiet.. and go off looking for some shift levers...

WZ JUNK · April 21, 2011, 03:25:33 PM

Wayne, this is exactly the type of input I wanted. I think I may make a third section to join the other two pieces and use a short section of rubber to join each section. That would join the pieces and give some flex where they meet. Although this is a blower motor, and I have allowed extra cross section area, it will be force feed at speed. I think this will help keep it from trying to collapse. This whole system is similiar to the intake that I built for Hooley's Studebaker.

John

wayne petty · April 21, 2011, 05:02:57 PM

just curious... are you going to cut several foam plugs for the grill opening... so it can be plugged to keep out FOD during tow back to the pits...

or create a branch in the pipe where it first swings up... if this is mounted low... so... any debris goes straight and does not make the upward bend...

goes straight into a dead end with a downward angle.. so it does not bounce forward... or something removable like a GEM cap... for blocking sewer drain pipes..

depending on what size is available...

http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/products/large/ffen5-4.jpg

there are also 8 inch, long and short radius PVC DWV bends that might be used if you can find the correct size... or go with the black ABS DVW.. as those are available in multiple radius bends also.. but in HUB x HUB... which is easier than slip fittings...

i am not trying to flush your project... with all these drain waste and vent pieces as an air intake.. but cutting and fitting them together.. might make you a quick to form item.. so you could fill it with rigid foam or plaster then cut the pipe off and form the fiberglass duct over..

one could create the abs or pvc glued together like a header kit.. fill and grind the exterior of the tube... then lay a layer of fiberglass on it.. when that single or double layer cures... slit it like they do a broken arm cast to remove it.. then fix the slit and continue building layers and its done...

pvc can also be heated and deformed.. so you could flatten it slightly to make it fit past items..

might save hours or days of work...

enjenjo · April 21, 2011, 06:49:23 PM

You might want to go up to that truck salvage yard near you. Kenworth and Peterbilt use large aluminumtubes to the air cleaner that might work for you. They also have rubber elbows that connect them together.

WZ JUNK · April 21, 2011, 08:42:44 PM

This is the grille filler that I made from fiberglass. Not a good picture but the only one I can find. The air duct snout will stick out near the top of this filler panel 3 or 4 inches about an inch or two down from the top. The air duct part that I am working on must pass over the top of a large water tank that is located where the radiator was located. The duct must be oval shaped to be able to go through this area and above the tank.

John