Att: Engine builders

wayne petty · December 25, 2010, 08:25:29 PM

electric motor rebuilders... probably industrial pump rebuilders...

as for baking the blocks to clean them.. we had a thermal cleaning unit at the engine rebuilder along time ago.. it took a LOT of gas to bake the parts... then a shot blaster to clean the ash and residue... then a tumbler which was some big rig tires bolted together on a giant rock tumbler sort of rig to knock the shot out of it..

i have been thinking of a high pressure water jet unit .. using a old engine oil pump.. driven off some kind of motor... or even a nice water pump like a chevy unit... bolted to the side of a steel box .. inside the box with spray bars... the basket rotating on a used hub and bearing assy. since the liquid is stored in a 5 gallon bucket.. and it all drains back into the bucket.. you could change buckets... so you would have a wash soap bucket.. a cleaner wash soap bucket.. and a clear wash bucket...

bowtietillidie · December 25, 2010, 08:58:03 PM

Maybe I should say something about why I think GE Glytpal Red is the best paint for using inside an engine. These thoughts came from the fellow that owns the electric motor shop here in town. he said the paint was developed by GE for the use in side electric for two reasons 1: It needed to have a high Dillelectric quality. 2: It had to have superior adhesive qualities because of the heat electic motors generate and then cool down . This cycle make hard for paint to stay put and Glypal does this better than any thing I have ever seen.

Using the oven for cleaning an engine block or heads
this might work but I believe it would be expensive and slow
I built my own bake off oven , After doing several sets of heads and block I found that I got best results when I finally got the temp up to 700* F
I could do a block and a set of heads in an hr ... forty mins in the oven twenty mins in the oven (shut down and allowed to stabilize)

Dusty · December 27, 2010, 10:08:05 PM

Hooley,

I'm not sure what you are trying to gain with the glyptal coating. When I worked in a speed shop while in high school, they used it to capture any sand left from the casting process, by painting with Glyptal. They would steam clean the blocks (My Job) then when they were dry, they painted the valley, and inside of the crankcase. Once again, this was to capture any foreign matter that might get into the oil stream. Glyptal is expensive, and looks good, but with todays cleaning proccesses, it probably looks better than it's utility value.

Just my observation...

Benny

Hooley · December 28, 2010, 12:18:43 PM

Thanks Dusty, Am I doing unnessary work by painting the inside of the block? What does everyone think. Should it be painted or should it be left raw? As you know I have been known to do stuff the old old school way.

Hooley

unklian · December 28, 2010, 03:53:18 PM

Personally, I think it is unnecessary.

The only place I would bother, is if the castings were porous.

No doubt, the subject has come up on Speedtalk.com boards.

unklian · December 28, 2010, 04:06:03 PM

Quote from: "unklian"
No doubt, the subject has come up on Speedtalk.com boards.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24228&hilit=glyptal

wayne petty · December 28, 2010, 07:20:56 PM

i was just thinking back to my exboss.,.. an air cooled factory trained . (sent to germany for VW training ) mechanic....

he warned me NEVER to paint an air cooled VW engine block... it will cause the engine to overheat as the surface is NOW insulated from the air flow...

so.. i wonder about the paint inside the motor... used to promote oil return... perhaps.. it would be better to just polish the insides of the block.... to promote oil drain back....

the engine is slightly cooled by the engine oil draining back...

perhaps this is a bad thing for electric motors also... keeps the heat in...

i wonder if the blocks that came from production engine rebuilders that went to the trouble of painting the lifter valley and other areas was to cover up the rough castings after being thermal cleaned and shot blasted...

this is just a thought... and it might be worth thinking about..

years ago.. when i was motors for my street cars... 66GTO, 67 camaro, 71 camaro RS... i think i spent about 2 to 3 hours with my air die grinder and sandpaper rolls on each block....

another thing... how many of you port and polish the rear main cap on chevys.. using a long ball down inside to straighten the corner??? 10 to 15 minutes of work.... ever seen it done. properly?

this is a minimal job...

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0109_542hp_big_block_chevy/photo_10.html

this is closer to what i like... i normally go all the way around.. so no rough surface is left...

bowtietillidie · December 28, 2010, 07:41:58 PM

I keep thinking keep my mouth shut or it will start another war . Sooooo
I'll fire the first shot . I feel it is very important to seal and promote oil drain back in any engine that had machine work done on it . I have owned a small custom engine shop for almost 45 yrs ( Ohio Head & Valve.....OHV) I use ONLY GE Glyptal Paint
and only after the heads and block have been baked clean Then washed in strong detergent then carefully grease mating surfaces. Removing any grease that may want to contaminate the painted surfaces. Finally bake the block in my drum with the heat lamps . This is expensive BUT if done right will out last the engine . I have never had a brg failure do to casting sand getting loose and going thru the oiling system!!!!!!!

Please wait till I take cover before returning Fire

Ps: They may have improved castings. But as long as they use sand I will use Glyptal Paint