I need some suggestions on a cam

Started by junkyardjeff, November 29, 2010, 09:22:17 PM

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junkyardjeff

Since the cam that has been installed in the 351 thats in my 55 wants to come in around 2000 RPMs its not going to work right in a heavy car with tall gears,what do I need to look for in a cam that will come in just above idle and maybe to 4000 at the max.  I am planning a Y block for the 55 but since it it will be next year untill that starts and the trip to florida  showed me the motor will not run the way I hoped it would I will need to fixed it since it will most likely go to Daytona next year and I want it to be able to climb the mountains without the strain it did this trip.

Glen

If nobody posts a specific cam from experience....you might find info like this helpful.  The cam manufacturers have links like thison their sites and should provide the answers you need.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=839&sb=0

wayne petty

y not...   or would it be the Y's have it...

http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/category/y-block/

found by accident...


jeff...  what carb are you running on the 351.?????/

how about something tiny... so the airflow at the slow speeds you are turning the engine ... let the carb get up off the idle transition ports and on the mains.. where the calibration is...

perhaps a 8007 ... with a choke...   390CFM...

do they make a 500 CFM edelbrock ????


how about an holley  economaster 2 bbl from a 302 ford...

going to a 1.12. or 1.18 motorcraft 2100..    some of the later versions were like 2150s  and had a throttle lifted air bleeds ...  i am not talking the feed back versions with the solenoid on the back to control the idle air bleed circuits..

will your intake accept a spread bore....

i wish the various billet carb manufacturers would throw together a hand full of custom carbs...  with a primary from a 390 and a secondary from a 650... so they would bolt on a holley flange manifold... instead of a spread bore... as the people looking to run this would be looking for fuel economy..  and since both 390 metering blocks and air flows are known.. and 650 secondary air flows are known...

only the main body and throttle body would need to be machined...

with gas getting toward the 4 buck a gallon range.. at least here in california.. they might sell a few...  for owners with light weight cruisers..     i would want some mods to the primary metering block..  so the idle feed restrictors could be adjusted with a tiny fine pitch screw..  base plate idle mixture screws..  or the metering block mixture screws adjusting the idle transition mixture


just thoughts...

if you need a cam for the Y block...   you might talk to jody at american custom cams..  see if he has some grind for them that will fit your bill..

i am taking that you are also planning on a connecting rod upgrade...  or at least inspecting your rods carefully  for fools who notch the sides with a big file mark...

i ran across an y block going together that looked like somebody had marked the rods with a sawzall... a nice sharp > in the side of the beam... i cringed...  that motor came back later with a broken cam..    as the rod failed where it was filed at.. wound around and snapped the cam..

chimp koose

Stick or automatic? If you were to advance the cam 4crank degrees it would be "on the cam" as much as 500 rpm sooner with more torque than it produces now.With an automatic that may raise the torque enough to stall the convertor a bit higher.Your vacuum signal to the carb would be better at low rpms making it a bit easier to drive. It would cost you very little to try,you could get an offset crank key ,gaskets and possibly an inexpensive solution to your problem. Oh yeah ,the engine would have a little more lopey idle too.

Crosley.In.AZ

Dual pattern camshaft from Comp Cams may work well..  255DEH  or the 265 DEH  unit
Tony

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